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Wiring LED Daytime Running Lights (DRLs)

wazza675

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Thanks for the confirmation of the correct wiring.

I look forward to seeing SW's twin relay set up that reduces the amount of wiring required by bridging terminals...

At this point I've not changed the OEM lights to 4000k or more. I did try some 6500k ones off ebay and even with high beam on they were 'tits on a bull'. I promptly returned them. I may in the future change to the Phillips Blue Vision 4000k with LED parkers once all this other stuff is sorted.
 

BigBoss

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This is what you want :) all with one relay.
relay.png

87 and 87A could be the other way around i can't remember and you will be wanting to throw in some fuses.
 

wazza675

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Can you add the specific wire (pos or neg) for each application (parkers, DRLs, fogs, switch) for me too please...
I'm assuming pos from all, then earth 85 and each application.

How many fuses would you need, 3?
30A for the ignition, 15A for the fogs after the relay, and 5A for the DRLs after the relay... correct?

BigBoss, having STARTED to look through your mods, any tips on removing the panels that allow access to the light switch?
Does your Omega have provisions for fogs? What would be involved in swapping the non-fog switch to one with the fogs (like I've already bought) and then wiring it into this? Point being, I wouldn't have to drill into the panel to add the rocker switch. As far as I can tell the loom doesn't include any provisions for the fogs, so it would mean adding a wire into into the female plug.

The youtube explanation for relays was goog but I might watch a couple more!!
 

BigBoss

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Slap a 10a fuse before the 86 a 5a fuse between 87 and the DRLs a 15a fuse between 87a and cabin switch and a 20a fuse between ig and 30
86, 87, 30 and 87a should be positive just take all the grounds to the body.

I looked in to it and found it was not worth installing the proper switch (I have ordered a rocker switch) but to remove the light switch just pull it directly out.
 

SweetWagon

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ADR 40s diagram looks the same as SweetWagon's recommendation however the 85 & 86 pin wiring is reversed.
Which is correct??
Also ADR 40s diagram uses a direct earth whereas Sweetwagon's uses the parker light earth.

Didn't get to tackle this today aside from getting the stuff from Jaycar. Hoping to get a look at SweetWagons diagrams first.

thing is with relays these days, it doesnt matter which way 30/87 and 85/86 are, it will work and operate correctly both ways.

There is a reason using the parking lights for +ve and -ve for the relay coil, as some cars have a +ve switched parking lights and others a -ve switched circuit, this way it will operate no matter what setup your electrical system is

ADR 40 is correct 86 should be connected to the positive lead of the parkers. the parkers ground is the same as a direct ground so go with a direct ground as this way you will have less chance of over loading the parkers. BTW I would also go with LED parkers to reduce load and for looks.

You wont overload the parkers, the relay coil draws only a few hundred milliamps - you wouldnt even see the difference on a multimeter.

These are also good to get that professional install look for relays, also relay can be connected/disconnected with ease.

relayconnector.jpg


DRL circuit

DRLdiagram.jpg


Fog circuit

fogdiagram.jpg


enjoy.
 

SweetWagon

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Slap a 10a fuse before the 86 a 5a fuse between 87 and the DRLs a 15a fuse between 87a and cabin switch and a 20a fuse between ig and 30
86, 87, 30 and 87a should be positive just take all the grounds to the body.

I looked in to it and found it was not worth installing the proper switch (I have ordered a rocker switch) but to remove the light switch just pull it directly out.

Im not sure how many fuses you like using but all but a correctly sized fuse between the power source and terminal 30 is required. why add another smaller fuse after 87 - it would just be getting fused twice, and different rated fuses?

86 also doesnt need to be fused. there is no load going through it, and if it did earth out, the parking light circuit is already fused....
 

BigBoss

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"86 also doesnt need to be fused. there is no load going through it, and if it did earth out, the parking light circuit is already fused...."

It is just some semi-redundancy, if it did earth out you are better off not having only your fog lights than not having your parkers and Fog lights.
Same thing for the others, it would be better to not have your DRLs or Fog lights than not have both.
But yes i see where you are coming from.
 

SweetWagon

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"86 also doesnt need to be fused. there is no load going through it, and if it did earth out, the parking light circuit is already fused...."

It is just some semi-redundancy, if it did earth out you are better off not having only your fog lights than not having your parkers and Fog lights.
Same thing for the others, it would be better to not have your DRLs or Fog lights than not have both.
But yes i see where you are coming from.

as long as the length of wire from the parking lights +ve to the relay(s) is relatively short and insulted properly then no need, if the wire shorted before the relay than its got a good chance of blowing either depending on placement of any second fuse.
 

wazza675

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I'm leaning towards the twin relay set-up so that it's easier to trouble shoot if necessary. It also has less fuses. I'll probably only splice the parker wires once with the two wires joined.

I've bought everything to install it that way anyhow... they must be sick of me at Jaycar by now.

I've bought stuff like the blister pack relay (as shown) before. I replaced the reg-rec on my old Daytona 675 and a mate's Daytona 600 with a Mosfet unit (previously shindengen). Easiest way was to replace the plugs on the reg-rec and keep the OEM wiring. Others made whole new looms but I thought that was overkill.

Thanks for your guidance and patience. Now to organize some quiet time in the shed...
 
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wazza675

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DRL wiring diagram worked a treat. Got a little OCD and soldered each connection as well as tape. Biggest drama is finding a good location to bolt it all to the engine bay...

Tomorrow's job is the fog lights. I forgot to split the wires from the parkers two ways, so I'll need to do that first I guess.

The fuse tap also worked a treat. I ran it from one of the 10A ignition fuses in the engine bay (row nearest to the front of the car). I also added a 5A inline fuse straight after to be sure.
 
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