WM statesman fault codes out of no where that wont clear. (any advice appreciated)

[StatesmanOwner]

Hey. i recently got a HOLDEN STATESMAN WM SERIES 1 3.6L HFV6 LY7 DOHC-PB 24v MPFI V6 5sp Auto 4dr Sedan RWD [08/06 - 07/09]
and when bought and it didn't have any issues runs fine very quiet gave it a service. no issue then we went and got it RW and rego and suddenly it had fault codes the auto elec was saying it had timing chain issues but the car doesn't miss and runs fine. then a few other codes popped replaced the coolant sensor which was faulty and the Purge Evap Solenoid (PCV) but now we have a list of about 10 codes that it didn't have initially. i was wondering if anyone else had similar problems or any idea how to fix any because the car drives without a problem. it idles normal it doesn't miss other than the check engine light that comes up that you press to go away you wouldn't be able to tell there was any issue with it.

I actually pulled out all 4 Camshaft actuators today; cleaned and tested them all operating in Ohms range so none are faulty. theres no sign of wear or damage to the wires either
the code numbers are
P2008 - Intake Manifold Runner Control Circuit Open Bank 1
P2009 - Intake Manifold Runner Control Circuit Low Bank 1
P2088 - Camshaft Position Actuator Control Circuit Low Bank 1
P2092 - Camshaft Position Actuator Control Circuit Low Bank 2
P0010 - Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1)
P0020 - Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 2)
P0013 - Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1)
P0023 - Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 2)
P0443 - Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit
P0458 - Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve Circuit Low

is theres some underlying issue causing false codes or something?

 

[lout]

give the battery a good charge or replace if old

 

[StatesmanOwner]

give the battery a good charge or replace if old

yeah i have done that interestingly enough the battery in it is the one that has been sitting in it for a few years and i revitalized it a bit. and added new terminals. like it starts the car no problem but the battery indicator light on the battery itself doesnt work. so maybe it would be worth replacing

 

[lmoengnr]

yeah i have done that interestingly enough the battery in it is the one that has been sitting in it for a few years and i revitalized it a bit. and added new terminals. like it starts the car no problem but the battery indicator light on the battery itself doesnt work. so maybe it would be worth replacing

Definitely replace the battery. VE's and WM's require strong, reliable batteries.

 

[Fu Manchu]

yeah i have done that interestingly enough the battery in it is the one that has been sitting in it for a few years and i revitalized it a bit. and added new terminals. like it starts the car no problem but the battery indicator light on the battery itself doesnt work. so maybe it would be worth replacing

Wait. You added new terminals?
How? Why?

There is absolutely something going on. For something like that, I’d be inspecting the engine harness in detail. Clean all earth points on the engine and in the engine bay. Look for damaged plugs. Chaffed wire in the harness. Look for missing or loose/unattached earths.

After that, you’ll need someone to start back probing at each plug checking voltages in each wire.

My suggestion is there will be a common earth to those sensors that’s giving some jip to the ECM and hopefully you find it. Like a needle in a haystack.

 

[Fu Manchu]

Also, you can’t revitalise an old battery. You can recharge it. You can’t revitalise it.

Have the battery load tested. Battery world do it.

Under load the ECM can and will shut down circuits via a switched earth to redistribute limited available voltage elsewhere.

 

[StatesmanOwner]

Wait. You added new terminals?
How? Why?

There is absolutely something going on. For something like that, I’d be inspecting the engine harness in detail. Clean all earth points on the engine and in the engine bay. Look for damaged plugs. Chaffed wire in the harness. Look for missing or loose/unattached earths.

After that, you’ll need someone to start back probing at each plug checking voltages in each wire.

My suggestion is there will be a common earth to those sensors that’s giving some jip to the ECM and hopefully you find it. Like a needle in a haystack.

had to replace the terminals because one was broken and wasn't able to tighten. i have done a rough inspection the vehicle is in pretty good condition the wires show no signs of wear or breakage. all the plugs are solid even sometimes hard to remove. also removed the ecm to look for any signs of damage or dirtyness to give it a bit of clean. the voltage reading in the car is 12v with the ignition on then once you start the car it goes up to around 15v but ill have to keep looking i suppose. the strangest thing is that we had none of these codes 2 weeks prior and nothing changed except we changed the oil and filter

 

[StatesmanOwner]

Also, you can’t revitalise an old battery. You can recharge it. You can’t revitalise it.

Have the battery load tested. Battery world do it.

Under load the ECM can and will shut down circuits via a switched earth to redistribute limited available voltage elsewhere.

some chargers have a rejuvenation option that takes 24hrs where i guess it trys to restore some capacity by breaking down platelets of something im not sure of the technical aspects. but just testing the battery with a MM shows it with 12-13v but i dont think thats the load your referring to.
the other thing we tried was putting another battery in the boot and connecting it via leads to see if that gave it any additional power but it didnt change anything.

 

[StatesmanOwner]

Wait. You added new terminals?
How? Why?

There is absolutely something going on. For something like that, I’d be inspecting the engine harness in detail. Clean all earth points on the engine and in the engine bay. Look for damaged plugs. Chaffed wire in the harness. Look for missing or loose/unattached earths.

After that, you’ll need someone to start back probing at each plug checking voltages in each wire.

My suggestion is there will be a common earth to those sensors that’s giving some jip to the ECM and hopefully you find it. Like a needle in a haystack.

The only plug that was damaged was the coolant temp sensor plug and we cut and soldered a new one to it. which works because the coolant sensor fault went away and shows the temp reading on my scanner. prior to adding the new one it would just show 0c or -40c cant remember

 

[Fu Manchu]

You don’t need to cut the plugs off. They are designed to be removed and replaced. The pins pop out and the plastic plug comes off.