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XC Barina NIGHTMARES!!

Discussion in 'Barina' started by kodie4, Jul 4, 2014.

  1. kodie4

    kodie4 New Member

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    Hi peoples can anyone shed some light on this?

    2001 XC Barina manual 1.4 Z14XE engine
    Car starts fine and can drive sometimes for hour or sometimes not when all of a sudden the vehicle begins to surge then will stall when i come to a stop, temp is just below 90 deg and sometimes will come good again for short periods of time. I have been looking on the net now for some days and tying all sorts of theories, i have retrieved three codes by using acc and brake pedal method as my scan tool and also another mechanics scan tool was coming up with nothing. The codes are as follows : P0120 = Throttle position sensor (TPS) circuit 1 voltage high/low C-09 and Throttle position sensor 1-2 Correlation C-09
    P0220: same as previous code
    P1550: Electronic throttle control reduced power C-09/Electronic throttle control forced idle/" " " " power management C-09/ " " " " throttle control engine stop C-09

    Now this is telling me throttle position sensor on acc pedal is faulty but from all iv'e been reading these cars have had numerous thousands thrown at them by numerous owners by dealerships doing the guessing game, i like all of them have to keep the car as too much invested and hoping someone can actually tell me they have had the same problem and actually had it sorted. I have heard the throttle body's can play up and just to let you know it is also making a continuos electronic ring, could this be due to the throttle position sensor faulty?

    Have also heard that one person had same issue only there's would cut out all the time and that turned out to be a bad wire connection under fuse 17 and rectifyed problem but have allready erased that issue out. PPPLLEEAASSEE anyone??
     
  2. Calaber

    Calaber Nil Bastardo Carborundum

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    Before you spend any money on replacing parts, try giving the throttle body a good clean out. My daughter's VE Omega developed symptoms similar to yours (without getting those same codes) a year ago and it turned out the throttle was sticking in the throttle body due to carbon accumulation. The drive-by-wire setups will play up when the throttle movement doesn't coincide with the electrical input as you operate the accelerator. You should remove the throttle body and carefully clean it out very thoroughly (particularly the edges of the butterfly) - don't just spray carby cleaner down the throat while it's running because that won't dislodge any hardened carbon that has built up on the edges of the butterfly, which is what causes the throttle to stick.

    If you are lucky and careful, the throttle body gasket should be re-usable but it might be worth having a new one on hand, just in case it rips.
     
  3. kodie4

    kodie4 New Member

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    Cheers for the advice, i have removed throttle body and thoroughly cleaned but no improvement, what i did next baffles me. I decided to start the car and then remove throttle body wiring plug which threw car into limp mode,then reconnected it and it not only ran fine for two weeks but also erased all codes in ecu.( tested using throttle and brake method, but just this morning it randomly started happening again!! JUST BURN IT i think. lol
     
  4. Reaper

    Reaper Tells it like it is.

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    I had a similar problem on my HSV. Threw a TPS correlation error most of the time and a few other errors on occasion. Turned out to be the TB.
     
  5. glennbnz

    glennbnz New Member

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    Just to let people know we have had similar issues with our 03 XC Barina. We had fault codes 1122/1550, and from the UK forums i have read on these cars they relate to poorly manufactured ecu's. These faults are from soldered joints on the ECU board failing when the motor is hot. The breakdown on ours was from the ecu sending voltage to the accelerater positioners 1 or 2 but whe had to put real time recording on the wires to find the intermittent problem.((We lost the 5 volts for about 3 seconds and then it came back))
    The fault is related to the throttle body but not the thottlebody at fault. When you do more investigating rather than just wasting money replacing parts that dont fix the problem, you can find these out. Fault codes are ok but they don't tell you how to fix it.
    I got the two 5 volt supplies (first 2 wires) at the accelerator plug joined together and that fixed this problem cheaply.
    Then we had P0230 which is fuel pump open circuit. Had the pump replaced a year before. This is also a 5 volt supply from the ECU to switch the fuel pump relay, so then we decided to get a resest ECU from the UK (Tech 2 reprogramming from holden took about 30 minutes all done).
    The car also made a lot of noise going over every tiny bump so i replaced the inner polyamide bush in the steering rack as. I had replaced a few other worn out parts like the sway bar links and leaking struts.
    I also found this info on UK forums but no one sells this as a part, except on ebay as a corsa C steering rack end bush. Not the easiest thing to replace in situ but that made it like new. The old one had 0.4mm clearance.
    Cheers
    Glenn

    A good Auto electrician could bypass this and go straight to the relay if you like.
     
  6. NakerZ

    NakerZ New Member

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    Hi there,
    Can anyone please help me out with my little dilemma. 4 days ago I bought a barina off a car yard and everything seemed fine until the car got a bit warmer and all of a sudden I lost heaps of power and when I put my foot down a bit more, the car seemed like it slipped into neutral so if I raised my foot off the pedal a bit and got the revs down, it would slip back into gear and slowly accelerate.
     
  7. figjam

    figjam Donating Member

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    Unfortunately, Opel built a great car (when new) that had heaps of electrical problems that Holden can never diagnose because 'there are no error codes'.
    I must have spent $2K minimum at a Holden dealer chasing a fault where the car would lose power, (like a limp mode) or refuse to start at traffic lights.
    I took it to an old school mechanic who diagnosed a faulty coil pack by my description, fitted a second hand unit for a couple of hundred, problem fixed.
    When it was scrapped at about 240Km, the auto gear lever was getting sloppy and selecting a gear was hit or miss.
    It could be an electrical gremlin, or mechanical wear in gearbox, or physical problem like sloppy linkages, engine movement on mounts.

    You have my best wishes and sympathy.
     
  8. NakerZ

    NakerZ New Member

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    Mate my beep beep barina was a **** of a thing when it warmed up. Lost nearly all power and wasn't changing gears properly. Xc barinas have **** ecu's so I got a new 1 and got it fitted . Well let me tell you this,
    It runs on a sniff
    The acceleration is grouse
    The transmission is responsive as fuk
    And the list continues
    To get the ECU replaced and have all of that taken care of would cost u atleast of what the car is probably worth . Just over 1 grand but it's seriously like driving a new 1 . Change your ecu and you'll be blowing in your pants ! True story !!!
     

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