Yet another 'Clutch' thread *prepares wallet *glup

[VRStato64]

Hey friends,

Seems after the massive epic skid I was doing in the maccas car park I blew my clutch. Just kidding, I was just setting off like a grandma while in traffic *sobs. From the metric ton of clutch threads I have read I am pretty certain its clutch related.

-Pedal is hard and springy.
-wont engage when car is running.
-Can force it into gear when stopped with engine off.
-Starting car in gear JUST gets it going, I was able to get it home with this method.
-When car is driving I cannot disengage the clutch.

Its a VY SS so LS1 etc, all that good stuff. The usual bolt on mods exhaust, OTR and tune. 240ish at the wheels from the dyno sheet I have. Its got 220k on the clock, so was not unexpected when the clutch went.

As i said I have done some reading. The general recommendations are.

- Textralia Z grip. Not sure how much these cost $1500ish?
- Textralia X grip. Same as Z grip I am assuming maybe a bit less right?
- Exedy HD. $850-1000 for kit.
- LS7 clutch $425 + $475 for LS7 fly wheel. $900 >> (New Genuine) VE HSV 427 LS7, CLUTCH & PRESSURE PLATE I have also read that an LS2 fly wheel with light machining is the cheaper option than the LS7 FW but better than a LS1 FW. Havent been able to find a decent price on a LS1 flywheel only.

Searches tell me the job is 3 - 5 hours of labor. So at $100 P/h looking at $300-500. Does that sound about right?

I should point out I probably wont go for the Textralia Z grip. Not afraid of the hard pedal, I have legs like Beyonce' so I can handle it. But if they are $1500 it doesnt seem worth it for a daily only on 240rwkw despite it being the most recommended clutch from my searches.

Anything I am missing? Just want to confirm I am in the ballpark because the majority of threads with good info are years old and prices change. I will start ringing shops for rough quotes and would like to know whos 'too good to be true' and whos 'going to bend me over' haha

Have a good one gals and dudes. Again sorry for another clutch thread, just want to confirm my research before jumping in. Ya'll know what I mean?

Justin

 

[VRStato64]

I forgot to add.

I recently moved to a new area and do not have a new trusty mechanic. So if you know of any good mechanics (notice I didnt say cheap) in the Heidelberg areas in Melbourne PM me with details.

Looking for my new 'go to guy'

Cheers.

 

[Dirbatua]

its usually a full day job to do for most places, it's not particulally hard, but its an annoying job to do.

And a few things to get done while it outs.

Rear main seal (just do it while the clutch is getting changed, will save you a headache and bill later on when they have to take it all apart the same way again when it blows a seal) - BOut 70-80 bucks for the gasket and o-ring seal and would only add an extra 20 minutes to the job plus an oil change.
Slave Cyl with thrust bearing (put a new slave in, again saves having to take the whole gearbox out again to change it when it fails/leaks) -Anywhere from $80-200 bucks depending on australian stock levels/sales.
Tailshaft Center bearing and donuts (donuts optional if they are good) - Donuts are about $120 each if required, center bearings are about $60 from memory, pay them to do it because while some come apart easy, most don't.
Ebay Ripshifter - Holden Commodore VT VU VX VY VZ LS1 V8 T56 Short Shifter Silver Brand NEW HSV | eBay

All the above will save you a massive headache later.

Dont bother with Exedy crap.

The LS7 one will do you if your not planning on adding anymore power (i was running the LS7 one in mine for a few years before to many burnouts at the track ####ed it ) or you can buy an ebay special with the lot Commodore Clutch KIT Flywheel VZ LS1 GEN3 5 7L SS Heavy Duty C W Slave CYL | eBay

I've installed a few of the ones above in mates cars and they've had no issue with em.

If your adding more power later then buy a Mcleod Twin Plate Street Clutch now that way you don't have to do it again - Mcleod RXT Twin Disc Clutch 1000 HP 97 10 GM LS Engine 6 Speed | eBay

Try C&A Auto Fashion in Blackburn, probably the closest one i know to you.

 

[VRStato64]

its usually a full day job to do for most places, it's not particulally hard, but its an annoying job to do.

And a few things to get done while it outs.

Rear main seal (just do it while the clutch is getting changed, will save you a headache and bill later on when they have to take it all apart the same way again when it blows a seal) - BOut 70-80 bucks for the gasket and o-ring seal and would only add an extra 20 minutes to the job plus an oil change.
Slave Cyl with thrust bearing (put a new slave in, again saves having to take the whole gearbox out again to change it when it fails/leaks) -Anywhere from $80-200 bucks depending on australian stock levels/sales.
Tailshaft Center bearing and donuts (donuts optional if they are good) - Donuts are about $120 each if required, center bearings are about $60 from memory, pay them to do it because while some come apart easy, most don't.
Ebay Ripshifter - Holden Commodore VT VU VX VY VZ LS1 V8 T56 Short Shifter Silver Brand NEW HSV | eBay

All the above will save you a massive headache later.

Thanks mate, thats great info. I had been planning on doing the ebay shifter myself befoer the clutch went so 2 birds one stone. And Thanks for pointing out the other things that should be done while the box is out. Saves me a shock if the bill comes back bigger than expected.

Would changing the diff oil be a goood idea? I assume that because the clutch has slowly died it put stress on the rest of the drive line?

Dont bother with Exedy crap.

The LS7 one will do you if your not planning on adding anymore power (i was running the LS7 one in mine for a few years before to many burnouts at the track ####ed it ) or you can buy an ebay special with the lot Commodore Clutch KIT Flywheel VZ LS1 GEN3 5 7L SS Heavy Duty C W Slave CYL | eBay

I've installed a few of the ones above in mates cars and they've had no issue with em.

If your adding more power later then buy a Mcleod Twin Plate Street Clutch now that way you don't have to do it again - Mcleod RXT Twin Disc Clutch 1000 HP 97 10 GM LS Engine 6 Speed | eBay

Exedy no good? read alot of conflicting opinions. But usually the negative ones give the best story.

More and more it seems the LS7 route is the way togo. I dont plan on adding anymore power, but I also have the opinion that if something breaks upgrading is better than replacing. Not sure I could do the 'ebay special' ahaha, shortshifter no problem. Clutch i dunno.

Try C&A Auto Fashion in Blackburn, probably the closest one i know to you.

Never been there personally but funnily enough my Car has. All its exhaust work and tune was done there before I bought it. 20ks from my house so RACV may tow it there.

Thanks brother.

 

[Dirbatua]

Would changing the diff oil be a goood idea? I assume that because the clutch has slowly died it put stress on the rest of the drive line?

Exedy no good? read alot of conflicting opinions. But usually the negative ones give the best story.

More and more it seems the LS7 route is the way togo. I dont plan on adding anymore power, but I also have the opinion that if something breaks upgrading is better than replacing. Not sure I could do the 'ebay special' ahaha, shortshifter no problem. Clutch i dunno.

Never been there personally but funnily enough my Car has. All its exhaust work and tune was done there before I bought it. 20ks from my house so RACV may tow it there.

Should change the diff oil anyway, i wouldn't say the clutch has put stress on it but if you change it then you know it has been changed, could be the factory oil is still in there, who knows.

As for Exedy, thrown way to many in the bin over the years because they've been ****, everyone i know has moved away from them because of it, specially the drifters i know are using Clutch Industry HDs now instead.

LS7 will be fine long for your power and last awhile.

Yea EBay short shifters are fine, i sold my genuine ripshifter for a profit and kept the ebay special in i was testing lol.

as for C&A ive never been there personally but i know hundreds of people who have and are happy with them.

 

[VRStato64]

Should change the diff oil anyway, i wouldn't say the clutch has put stress on it but if you change it then you know it has been changed, could be the factory oil is still in there, who knows.

As for Exedy, thrown way to many in the bin over the years because they've been ****, everyone i know has moved away from them because of it, specially the drifters i know are using Clutch Industry HDs now instead.

LS7 will be fine long for your power and last awhile.

Yea EBay short shifters are fine, i sold my genuine ripshifter for a profit and kept the ebay special in i was testing lol.

as for C&A ive never been there personally but i know hundreds of people who have and are happy with them.

Thanks bro.

 

[VRStato64]

Thought Id chime in again and bring the thread to a close.

Got the clutch in. Xtreme HD, feels heaps better than stock, a little heavier but id describe it more as 'firm' than heavy. Grabs well and is fine in traffic, the car still had the stock clutch in it so i hope this one lasts 220k.

The $80 short shifter is maybe the best mode I have done to the car. The 40% throw reduction is no joke, but it also tightens it up. Its snappy and likes to man handled. Time will tell to see if it lasts but for $80 it really improves the feel of the car.

Getting the clutch and shifter put in was around $500 I would have done the shifter myself but it was just easier to have it put in while the transmission was out.