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Your Engine oil choice

What engine oil do you use ?


  • Total voters
    65

greenacc

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I've got Nulon dot 4 in my commo and it's been fine. I don't think you will notice a difference between the mainstream brands. I like blue Valvoline fluid because it is easier to see the level in the master cylinder.
 

Forg

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I've got Nulon dot 4 in my commo and it's been fine. I don't think you will notice a difference between the mainstream brands. I like blue Valvoline fluid because it is easier to see the level in the master cylinder.
This is going in a 1979 Volvo, not the SSVR ... with relatively undersized brakes, I believe the fluid is under more stress than something with relatively great big clampy pads on relatively great big heat-dissipating discs ... I mean, yeah, the SSVR is well over half a tonne heavier (and the energy dissipation required to stop is the square of proportion with mass), but the brakes are waaaay bigger!
 

greenacc

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Probably easiest to compare boiling point stated on the bottles but I suspect that the boiling point of modern fluids would be higher than it was back in the 70s so I think you will be fine.
The biggest gain in temperature handling would probably be in switching to Dot4 if you could find out if it's suitable for the Volvo.
 

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I use penrite gf5 in my sv6. To any one interested autobahn have 30% off all oils today and tomorrow i am going to grab some while on sale.
 

VFSV6FORME

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I use penrite gf5 in my sv6. To any one interested autobahn have 30% off all oils today and tomorrow i am going to grab some while on sale.
Yes going today to get 2x5ltr penrite GF-5
 

Forg

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Probably easiest to compare boiling point stated on the bottles but I suspect that the boiling point of modern fluids would be higher than it was back in the 70s so I think you will be fine.
The biggest gain in temperature handling would probably be in switching to Dot4 if you could find out if it's suitable for the Volvo.
Yes I'm supposed to be using DOT4 in it in the first place; and yeah I've been comparing on stated boiling point, and the just-slightly-more-expensive-than-standard fluids have significant increases with the wow-that's-really-expensive next step up being only a similar increment higher again.
So to give an example from memory without checking accuracy, the generic ~$12/500mL Castrol was ~480°C, the ~$14/500mL Castrol was ~520°C and the ~$35/500mL Castrol was ~550°C.
 

Forg

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Thread revival, despite it’s age the topic of this is as good as any …

Now the car’s waaay out of warranty, the maintenance schedule is out the window.
At rego-renewal inspection time around Christmas, I get the trusted mechanic to do a service including whatever’s closest according to the schedule, and then in June/July I do oil & oil/air filters myself.

A few months back Automotive Superstore had a sale on Nulon Race+ and nothing much else was on sale, so I got 2x5L of that … probably overkill, but why not, especially as I’d been waiting very impatiently for the usual Penrite or Nulon I use to be on sale & it hadn’t happened (or I missed it).

Now ever since we got the car, it’s always had this very very light valvetrain-sounding clickyness. I wasn’t super bothered as it seems normal for an L77, heard two other V8 VF’s being dropped-off when we were getting the 1500km service and they both sounded the same. It’s a tiny bit more prominent when you first turn it on, not super-loud but there.

Aaaand … it’s gone after putting the Race+ in. No ticky-ticky noise apart from maybe a tiny bit at start-up. And yes, it’s definitely the correct weight! Which means I’m now probably addicted to the stuff …
 

Skylarking

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Thread revival, despite it’s age the topic of this is as good as any …

Now the car’s waaay out of warranty, the maintenance schedule is out the window.
At rego-renewal inspection time around Christmas, I get the trusted mechanic to do a service including whatever’s closest according to the schedule, and then in June/July I do oil & oil/air filters myself.

A few months back Automotive Superstore had a sale on Nulon Race+ and nothing much else was on sale, so I got 2x5L of that … probably overkill, but why not, especially as I’d been waiting very impatiently for the usual Penrite or Nulon I use to be on sale & it hadn’t happened (or I missed it).

Now ever since we got the car, it’s always had this very very light valvetrain-sounding clickyness. I wasn’t super bothered as it seems normal for an L77, heard two other V8 VF’s being dropped-off when we were getting the 1500km service and they both sounded the same. It’s a tiny bit more prominent when you first turn it on, not super-loud but there.

Aaaand … it’s gone after putting the Race+ in. No ticky-ticky noise apart from maybe a tiny bit at start-up. And yes, it’s definitely the correct weight! Which means I’m now probably addicted to the stuff …
I haven’t seen specs for Race+ but Nulon themselves specify the following for NR5W40 Racing Oil:

Caution
NOTE: Not recommended for vehicles fitted with catalytic converters.


So I don’t know what’s better, killing the cats ($$) or a little inconsequential clickyness on start up (well I hope it’s inconsequential)…



PS: interestingly the product sheet for NR5W30 specifies same additives (same levels specified) yet it doesn’t warn about cats? Hmm, go figure, may be good in our cars after all :p

 
Last edited:

lmoengnr

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I haven’t seen specs for Race+ but Nulon themselves specify the following for NR5W40 Racing Oil:

Caution
NOTE: Not recommended for vehicles fitted with catalytic converters.


So I don’t know what’s better, killing the cats ($$) or a little inconsequential clickyness on start up (well I hope it’s inconsequential)…

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PS: interestingly the product sheet for NR5W30 specifies same additives (same levels specified) yet it doesn’t warn about cats? Hmm, go figure, may be good in our cars after all :p

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Probably only a problem for V6 Commodore owners, they seem to burn lots of oil....
 
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