VrWagz1
The Wagon on Wheels..
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- VE SSV MY09 Auto Wagon
This is a short story of how to change your passenger side engine mount as this is the one that normally breaks due to the way the engine twists when you give it a bit of stick. I may eventually do the driver side but it was hard enough to do on the passenger side without an A/C in the way and the ABS ontop too, and its not broken at the moment anyway. I know its not particulary hard but i thought id write this up anywayz as my haynes manual had about 4 lines of text, which was less than helpful.
You will need a 3/8 imperial socket set, an imperial spanner set, jack, new engine mount and maybe a hammer.
1. Run your car up on ramps or stands and chock your rear wheels well.
2. Have a look from up top and you'll see a bracket on your engine mount holding a hose up. Loosen that nut and the bracket slides out from underneath it.
3. You need to jack the engine up to take the weight off the engine mount. I did this by placing a peice of timber on my jack and jacking under the sump. BE VERY CARFUL YOU CAN VERY EASILY CAVE IN YOUR SUMP. The car will lift for a bit then you will start to see the weight come off the mount. Mine was completely broken so you could see it start to seperate. Once you get to this point stop.
4. Now get underneath and have a look (see pic), you'll see the engine mount sandwhiched between the "K" frame and the bracket thats bolted to the block. To get the engine mount out, you need to take the bracket thats bolted to the block and the mount out together.
5. You need (see pic) to undo 2 bolts on the bottom, then 1 up the top on the bracket bolted to the block, plus the "through bolt" in the mount.
Start with the bolt on the bottom closest to the starter motor as its the hardest one. For this one i used a short handled spanner and had the handle pointed towards the starter motor, as its about the only place you can get some room to swing on the spanner for this bolt. The other bottom bolt i just used a socket, and the top bolt i used a spanner from the top side.
6. Now you've got all the bolts out, you need to get it outta there. The best way i can explain it to you, is to slide the whole assembly up(you may need an extra pump on the jack) till the mount is clear of the K frame, then slide it back towards the starter motor, then down and out the bottom. If its in 2 peices like mine, it will just fall out anyway. Just remember this for when your sliding the new one in.
7. Now undo the 2 nuts holding the mount to the bracket and bolt the new one on to it and begin sliding it back in, the opposite way as described above.
I couldnt line the holes back up in the block, as my mount was slightly out and sat scewed on the K frame, so i had to pull mine back out and bend the wings where it sits on the K frame out a bit with a few taps of the bashometer.
Well, the results are all good. Theres no thud now when i change gears at high rpm and the extractors have stopped rubbing under the passenger footwell
Any comments, different ways you would have done it appreciated, and advice on doing the drivers side would be helpfull too, it looks like a nightmare.
You will need a 3/8 imperial socket set, an imperial spanner set, jack, new engine mount and maybe a hammer.
1. Run your car up on ramps or stands and chock your rear wheels well.
2. Have a look from up top and you'll see a bracket on your engine mount holding a hose up. Loosen that nut and the bracket slides out from underneath it.
3. You need to jack the engine up to take the weight off the engine mount. I did this by placing a peice of timber on my jack and jacking under the sump. BE VERY CARFUL YOU CAN VERY EASILY CAVE IN YOUR SUMP. The car will lift for a bit then you will start to see the weight come off the mount. Mine was completely broken so you could see it start to seperate. Once you get to this point stop.
4. Now get underneath and have a look (see pic), you'll see the engine mount sandwhiched between the "K" frame and the bracket thats bolted to the block. To get the engine mount out, you need to take the bracket thats bolted to the block and the mount out together.
5. You need (see pic) to undo 2 bolts on the bottom, then 1 up the top on the bracket bolted to the block, plus the "through bolt" in the mount.
Start with the bolt on the bottom closest to the starter motor as its the hardest one. For this one i used a short handled spanner and had the handle pointed towards the starter motor, as its about the only place you can get some room to swing on the spanner for this bolt. The other bottom bolt i just used a socket, and the top bolt i used a spanner from the top side.
6. Now you've got all the bolts out, you need to get it outta there. The best way i can explain it to you, is to slide the whole assembly up(you may need an extra pump on the jack) till the mount is clear of the K frame, then slide it back towards the starter motor, then down and out the bottom. If its in 2 peices like mine, it will just fall out anyway. Just remember this for when your sliding the new one in.
7. Now undo the 2 nuts holding the mount to the bracket and bolt the new one on to it and begin sliding it back in, the opposite way as described above.
I couldnt line the holes back up in the block, as my mount was slightly out and sat scewed on the K frame, so i had to pull mine back out and bend the wings where it sits on the K frame out a bit with a few taps of the bashometer.
Well, the results are all good. Theres no thud now when i change gears at high rpm and the extractors have stopped rubbing under the passenger footwell
Any comments, different ways you would have done it appreciated, and advice on doing the drivers side would be helpfull too, it looks like a nightmare.
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