Spyper
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- Sunshine, Vic
- Members Ride
- VX II Acclaim
Well next weekend I'm going to start the conversion. I've read bits and pieces I could find around these forums and think I'm heading into it with all the gear I need. I've got my high intensity blue LEDs along with 390ohm resistors for each one. I'll get the clear blue paint sometime during the week for the plastic casings that can't be filed back. I'll be taking step by step pictures and posting a bit of a tutorial on here, because there seems to be a fair bit of interest but nothing concrete on how to go about it.
What I'm wondering though is, from anyone that's done it before.. is there anything I should know before heading in that might of been a major problem when you did it? Any little bits of info that could potentially help? How many bulbs are behind the dash in a VXII Acclaim? It only has the one LCD screen.Thanks for any help.
I'll update this thread when it's all completed with step by step instructions. This is the first project I'll be attempting on a car, so wish me luck =)
EDIT: For first time readers wanting to know how to do it without reading through everything I'll compile a quick list and info guide here:
=========================================
Parts you'll need:
=========================================
CLUSTER:
6 or 8 x 5000-8000mcd (brightness) Blue 5mm LED's (6 for single window display, 8 for 3 window displays)
6 or 8 x 540ohm Resistors (.5watt blue) (Same deal)
Air-Con Controls:
5 x 5000-8000mcd Blue 3mm LED's
5 x 540ohm Resistors (.5watt blue)
Mode Controls:
1 x 5000-8000mcd Blue 3mm LED
1 x 540ohm Resistor (.5w blue)
Note: Confirm the resistors with jaycar or dicksmith, where ever you get the LED's from. Tell them it's for 12v application.
=========================================
Taking the dash apart:
=========================================
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/showpost.php?p=208250&postcount=88
Photos of the whole process: http://members.optusnet.com.au/skylout1169/dashinstall.zip
=========================================
=========================================
Method:
=========================================
Note: A 12v DC power supply comes in very handy for testing! Apply voltage to metal contacts on circuit board. Alternatively, 2 AA batteries in series straight onto the LED (without resistor) will work too.
Solder a resistor to the positive end of each LED. The positive end is the longer of the two. I suggest clipping both contacts a little bit smaller so they'll fit wherever you have to put them. Maybe wait until everything is out so you can see the space you've got to work with. File the top of the LED to remove the rounded shape. Make it flat so that the light difuses evenly, and you won't get 'hotspots'. Someone suggested putting that thin white baking paper around them to difuse the light more evenly, however I haven't tried it, and don't know how bright the light will be.
Ok here we go..
(Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery before fiddling with ANY electronics)
Cluster:
Take out the cluster, it's held in by a couple of screws. Take it all apart, there's a few screws and clips you'll need to get at. Take the needles and stuff off (they pop off with a fork or whatever else you can get under them.
http://members.optusnet.com.au/skylout1169/cluster-diagram.JPG
This picture shows which globes need to be converted, and the polarity.
Solder the end of the resistor to Positive (+) and the LED probe to the Negative (-). Make sure no other parts of the LED or Resistor touch the metal contacts, as you could short circuit it or blow the LED. You do not need to remove any of the green paint on the inside of the cluster face. The LEDs are bright enough to shine through without being affected by the green paint. Now, test the cluster in the car (or with your 12v power supply) to make sure it's all working fine. Then put it all back together.
AirCon Controls:
Take out the Air-Con unit. You will need to disconnect some wires from the back of it. You'll also need to disconnect a cog-type thing. Be careful when taking it all apart because there is a ball bearing and spring in one of the dials you do NOT want to lose. I did, and had to make up another one. Putting this all back together is a very hard time, a 2nd pair of hands will be very handy trying to connect the cog back up without the bearing popping loose.
Unscrew the bulbs in the unit, by memory there are 5. There is no need to scrape off the green paint on the plastic face. The LED's are bright enough to shine through. Now when I soldered in the LED's, I did them the wrong way, had to de-solder them, turn them around, and do it again. I have no photos and can't remember which way they go in, so you'll need to test them! If not, solder one in, run out to the car, hook it up, and test that way. Then you may only need to de-solder one. Be wary though, 4 of them all face the one way. The one on the far right is opposite, and has to be soldered in backwards. By that I mean, the Positive end is on the right (I think) for all except one. TEST! Solder in all your LEDs, then have a fun time putting it all back together.
To do your mode button, pop out the unit, and it should be pretty self evident. Just check it out and see how you go. My mode button doesn't light up.. in some cars it just doesn't.
=========================================
End Result:
=========================================
http://members.optusnet.com.au/spyper666/car/blue_cluster.JPG
http://members.optusnet.com.au/spyper666/car/blue_ac.JPG
http://members.optusnet.com.au/spyper666/car/blue_both.JPG
Time Line:
Taking apart dash: 1 hour maximum. You can do this in 15-20 minutes once you've done it before.
Converting over the cluster: Allow about 2 hours to take it all apart and getting all your soldering done.
Converting over the A/C controls: Allow another 2 hours to doing this.
Converting over the Mode buttons: Half an hour or so.
Putting everything back together: (Cluster/AC/Mode/Dash) 1.5 hours
Total: 7 hours
It took me alot longer than that because I was guessing my way through it. If you have a decent understanding of how things work and you've pulled your dash apart, you could get it done alot quicker. If you haven't, it may take you a bit longer. Be prepared for failing of your parts like the LEDs and Resistors, so be sure you have another car to travel to get more, or just buy more than you need.
=========================================
If you need more info on the fine details, check through this thread. If you need any more help, feel free to PM me. Deserthead and MyBerlina have both done this too, so they may be able to help.
What I'm wondering though is, from anyone that's done it before.. is there anything I should know before heading in that might of been a major problem when you did it? Any little bits of info that could potentially help? How many bulbs are behind the dash in a VXII Acclaim? It only has the one LCD screen.Thanks for any help.
I'll update this thread when it's all completed with step by step instructions. This is the first project I'll be attempting on a car, so wish me luck =)
EDIT: For first time readers wanting to know how to do it without reading through everything I'll compile a quick list and info guide here:
=========================================
Parts you'll need:
=========================================
CLUSTER:
6 or 8 x 5000-8000mcd (brightness) Blue 5mm LED's (6 for single window display, 8 for 3 window displays)
6 or 8 x 540ohm Resistors (.5watt blue) (Same deal)
Air-Con Controls:
5 x 5000-8000mcd Blue 3mm LED's
5 x 540ohm Resistors (.5watt blue)
Mode Controls:
1 x 5000-8000mcd Blue 3mm LED
1 x 540ohm Resistor (.5w blue)
Note: Confirm the resistors with jaycar or dicksmith, where ever you get the LED's from. Tell them it's for 12v application.
=========================================
Taking the dash apart:
=========================================
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/showpost.php?p=208250&postcount=88
Photos of the whole process: http://members.optusnet.com.au/skylout1169/dashinstall.zip
=========================================
=========================================
Method:
=========================================
Note: A 12v DC power supply comes in very handy for testing! Apply voltage to metal contacts on circuit board. Alternatively, 2 AA batteries in series straight onto the LED (without resistor) will work too.
Solder a resistor to the positive end of each LED. The positive end is the longer of the two. I suggest clipping both contacts a little bit smaller so they'll fit wherever you have to put them. Maybe wait until everything is out so you can see the space you've got to work with. File the top of the LED to remove the rounded shape. Make it flat so that the light difuses evenly, and you won't get 'hotspots'. Someone suggested putting that thin white baking paper around them to difuse the light more evenly, however I haven't tried it, and don't know how bright the light will be.
Ok here we go..
(Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery before fiddling with ANY electronics)
Cluster:
Take out the cluster, it's held in by a couple of screws. Take it all apart, there's a few screws and clips you'll need to get at. Take the needles and stuff off (they pop off with a fork or whatever else you can get under them.
http://members.optusnet.com.au/skylout1169/cluster-diagram.JPG
This picture shows which globes need to be converted, and the polarity.
Solder the end of the resistor to Positive (+) and the LED probe to the Negative (-). Make sure no other parts of the LED or Resistor touch the metal contacts, as you could short circuit it or blow the LED. You do not need to remove any of the green paint on the inside of the cluster face. The LEDs are bright enough to shine through without being affected by the green paint. Now, test the cluster in the car (or with your 12v power supply) to make sure it's all working fine. Then put it all back together.
AirCon Controls:
Take out the Air-Con unit. You will need to disconnect some wires from the back of it. You'll also need to disconnect a cog-type thing. Be careful when taking it all apart because there is a ball bearing and spring in one of the dials you do NOT want to lose. I did, and had to make up another one. Putting this all back together is a very hard time, a 2nd pair of hands will be very handy trying to connect the cog back up without the bearing popping loose.
Unscrew the bulbs in the unit, by memory there are 5. There is no need to scrape off the green paint on the plastic face. The LED's are bright enough to shine through. Now when I soldered in the LED's, I did them the wrong way, had to de-solder them, turn them around, and do it again. I have no photos and can't remember which way they go in, so you'll need to test them! If not, solder one in, run out to the car, hook it up, and test that way. Then you may only need to de-solder one. Be wary though, 4 of them all face the one way. The one on the far right is opposite, and has to be soldered in backwards. By that I mean, the Positive end is on the right (I think) for all except one. TEST! Solder in all your LEDs, then have a fun time putting it all back together.
To do your mode button, pop out the unit, and it should be pretty self evident. Just check it out and see how you go. My mode button doesn't light up.. in some cars it just doesn't.
=========================================
End Result:
=========================================
http://members.optusnet.com.au/spyper666/car/blue_cluster.JPG
http://members.optusnet.com.au/spyper666/car/blue_ac.JPG
http://members.optusnet.com.au/spyper666/car/blue_both.JPG
Time Line:
Taking apart dash: 1 hour maximum. You can do this in 15-20 minutes once you've done it before.
Converting over the cluster: Allow about 2 hours to take it all apart and getting all your soldering done.
Converting over the A/C controls: Allow another 2 hours to doing this.
Converting over the Mode buttons: Half an hour or so.
Putting everything back together: (Cluster/AC/Mode/Dash) 1.5 hours
Total: 7 hours
It took me alot longer than that because I was guessing my way through it. If you have a decent understanding of how things work and you've pulled your dash apart, you could get it done alot quicker. If you haven't, it may take you a bit longer. Be prepared for failing of your parts like the LEDs and Resistors, so be sure you have another car to travel to get more, or just buy more than you need.
=========================================
If you need more info on the fine details, check through this thread. If you need any more help, feel free to PM me. Deserthead and MyBerlina have both done this too, so they may be able to help.
Last edited: