Complete VN,VP,VR,VS,VQ,VG Headunit Guide [56k warning]

[Atreidae]

You can all thank 12VoltKing for getting me to post this here.. as I'm a lazy ass
anyway enjoy the guide

Update Jan 2010
I have been meaning to repost the pics for ages.
anyway, here they are.

[Disclaimer!]

By Continuing to read this article you agree to not hold myself, my company, the owner of this website or any of their / my partners liable for ANY damages being civil, physical or mental caused by using the information in this document.

This document is NOT a guide on how to Install a car stereo. It is simply my notes and observations posted on the Internet for you to use however you deem fit

If you do not agree to the above terms please press "back" on your browser

[End Disclaimer]

[update for stupid users!]
Just an update for those thinking of PM'ing me absolute Bull, I'm not interested don't waste my time, and once again
I cant possibly see how you can damage your vehicle following the instructions on this page, but if you do its your own damn fault. Any PM's that come into my mailbox that are just plain stupid WILL be posted on chibiko.net and you will be made fun of (Ill even send you a bill for the hosting and advertising whilst I'm at it)
Whilst most of JC appreciates what I do and the time I gave up to make and post this guide the ones that don't grind my gears!
(you know who you are)
[End stupid users]

[the same as above in normal speak]
**** it up? don't come crying to me or anyone else.. don't know what your doing get a pro to do it
[/the same as above in normal speak]

I can recommend a few places, but I'm sure that there is a TON of sponsors to the JC website that can help

Okay. First off just a few notes.
Revisions

23rd may 2005
-added wiring colours (thanks 12voltking)
-added headunit check warning
4th october 2005
-Updated contact details
29 Jan 2006
-Added "******************" to list of allowed sites
05 Apr 2006
-Added "Ausrevs.com" to list of allowed sites
-Removed "Commodoreclub.net" from list of allowed sites
04 may 06
-Added "Justcommodores.com" to list of allowed sites
29th Jan 2010
-Reposted images
-Tons of spelling fixes. (daym!)
-Minor grammatical revisions


Errors and alterations
Some of the instructions in this guide may be inaccurate or be slightly different for your model commodore.

For example the VG,VS bench seat models have a different console.
I will endeavour to update this guide to suit the slightly varied models.

Take care and be responsible

Any advice or guidance given in this tutorial should be taken as such. advice. its not my problem if you car catches fire, runs over an old lady or your headunit explodes. be thankful you have any help at all. if you don't know what you are doing, seek the help of a pro.

For use by authorised domains only

I dont want to see this guide posted on any other car websites without my exclusive permission, the images are hosted on my personal webspace and will soon be rolling over to my personal webserver. I dont take well to hotlinking or image stealing.

if this guide is not on one of the following domains it has been stolen.

www.chibiko.net
www.ausrevs.com
www.justcommodores.com
www.******************



And now to the guide.






Normal view of the centre console.

Ignore my handsfree on the right... this is the section of car we want to pull apart. you will notice I had a manual.. most of the instructions apply for the auto as well.. but I will point out any differences




Tools Required to disassemble console

1 x flat blade screw driver
1 x phillips head screwdriver (preferably a cordless drill)
1 x clean back seat
1 x coffee
(N.B coffee can be substitute for any drink.. preferably beer or bourbon. but some of us need to drive after installing)


Begin by opening the drivers side dash panel (fuse panel) under the steering wheel.. using either the screwdriver or your keys.



Now remove the locator pin in the hinge on the side closest to the centre console, usually achieved with a little prying from your screwdriver (blurry pic)






Now remove the dash panel and place it on your back seat

Whilst your down here its a pretty good time to disconnect the heater control rod. look towards the tunnel from the foot well.. near the heater pipelines should be a white plastic leaver with a steel rod through it.
unclip the protective cover on the lever (this breaks about 50% of the time.. don't stress, tiny dab of hot glue later). pull the rod out of the lever arm
(this is quite different on climate controlled cars. when I get my hands on one.. I will post a supplement on it)





Remove the three screws located on the right hand side of the centre console. store somewhere safe





Clean out your glove box!



Remove the locator pin on the right and side of the glove box at the back.. its much the same as the dash panel one. but may need more "convincing" to get it out. if all else fails try a set of bent long nose pliers..



Remove and place glove box on back seat

Remove the three screws on the left side of the centre console. and store somewhere safe (notice, I'm missing one)



Drink Coffee.

Ensure the handbrake is applied and works!

(Manual only)Place in neutral and remove gear shift knob by rotating in an anticlockwise direction

(Auto only) Place selector in D



Remove ashtray by pulling it out

Using Two fingers pry up the transmission cover starting from the hand brake



with the cover lifted disconnect the cigarette lighter and illumination harnesses from the cover. these are simple push clip style connectors.. push the retaining tongue in and pull the connector apart.

remove cover and place on back seat (look, I'm missing a boot, no-wonder the car is smelly)

(auto only) Take care when removing the cover. you will need to rotate the cover 90 degrees counterclockwise to overcome the T shifter. also be careful of the plastic plate with the gear letters printed on it. you may want to marks its position on the serrated tooth edge incase you move it.



Loosen off these 2 screws a fair amount.. the centre console should "drop" slightly (don't remove the screws, they should just stand proud 15-20mm)




Remove these 3 screws and store safe.



Gently remove outer trim of console.. disconnect any accessories like power antenna controls, a/c etc etc and the security LED (this normally pops out of the dash before you get the plug undone, another hot glue job for later)
place on back seat.



Drink more coffee

Remove the screw located on the heater control



Remove heater control disconnecting the fan and illumination looms..
be very gentle disconnecting the vacuum cluster.. breaking it is not fun.
(this may be quite different on climate controlled cars. when i get my hands on one.. I will post a supplement on it)






Almost there.

Remove these screws and store in a safe place.



Press Down on the centre console like as below. this helps when removing the console in a second



Pull the main shroud down as to overcome the lip from the main crash pad. and out.. be careful of the two plastic pins stuck in the centre console (this is why we pushed it down before)

store on back seat



Remove the 2 screws holding the stereo onto the framework.

(photo missing.. will fix soon)

Viola the stereo is in your hands




Now the wiring information.
either use a conversion kit.. (you can normally get these at superchit) or solder inline with the factory plug.. don't cut it off leave it on in case you ever want to remove your new head unit and stick the old one back in. (hey it happens, you know. when you buy that other commodore..)

thanks to 12voltking for the wiring diagram (i couldn't be bothered)

Orange = constant 12V
yellow = accessories
Black = earth (or use the metal chassis)
Brown/white = illumination
yellow/red = elec aerial
dark green(-) & light green(+) = front right
tan(+) & grey(-) = front left
dark/black(-) & blue red(+) = rear right
brown/black(+) & yellow/blue(-) = rear left


to make a bracket to suit your new aftermarket stereo.. you can either drill a hole through the factory brackets. (measurements one day... maybe another 5 years) or just make some out of central locking back straps (you can normally pick these up at jb, strathfield etc etc just ask one of the service techs)

You can see my phone here for comparison





The factory Holden stereo loom doesn't always contain illumination. you can get an illumination trigger off the heater controls but I find it easiest to just run a tag wire from the cigarette lighter. the wire is Brown/white and is on a plug by its self.




Try and keep your wiring neat and tidy.. tape it all up into a neat loom if need be, less mess = easier to put back together.


Putting it all back together is pretty much the reverse of the instructions here.

things to take note of during reassembly

once the headunit is screwed back in TEST EVERYTHING!
am/fm reception
cd playability
stacker control (if applicable)
turn your headlights on with the headunit running (if it turns off, your Earth is WRONG!)
set the time and a few fm stations
turn the ignition OFF and remove your key
turn back on and check it still remembers the time/stations etc

Be careful when reconnecting the vacuum cluster to the heater controls. start the car and test that you can select all the different zones before you continue.. you don't want to pull it apart again because you buggered it up.

the two screws you loosened earlier on the centre console control the level of the console. don't do these up tight.. just enough to raise the level back up and make everything line up again.


When reconnecting the steel rod into the leaver arm (near heater pipes) ensure that the heat selector is on cold.. all the way. then pull the arm as far back as you can. it should press on a little vacuum switch. insert the rod into the arm and replace clip (add a tiny dab of hot glue if you fubared it before)

(vacuum switch shown here with console apart for ease of view. console will obviously be together when fitting the rod)



(auto only)
you may need to readjust the gear indicator panel if you bumped it.. fairly easy done. not much hassle involved


Now if you have any problems pm me.. I'm normally on every night.
desperate can call my mobile 0432500648 but don't expect me to drop everything to take your call. I do have to work too you know

IMPORTANT!!!

If you call me for head unit advice you need to tell me you read my guide straight off, or I'm just going to fob you off like the ten billion other idiots who think they can install stereos

[Tasmaniak]

a HUGE round of applause to Atreidae for sharing this with us

[mattman]

Very very comprehensive mate. Looks good.

Couple of suggestions from my own experience.

a) You don't need to remove the trans surround completely, just lift it enough to get to the screws. Saves any problems getting it over the auto shifter knob.
b) You don't need to remove the a/c unit completely, just unscrew it all and let it sit loose in the console.. hoses don't need to come off, less chance of things getting stuffed up.

[garfa]

good guide by a good bloke.
pitty i saw this after i learned to install a h/u!

[Tasmaniak]

Very very comprehensive mate. Looks good.

Couple of suggestions from my own experience.

a) You don't need to remove the trans surround completely, just lift it enough to get to the screws. Saves any problems getting it over the auto shifter knob.
b) You don't need to remove the a/c unit completely, just unscrew it all and let it sit loose in the console.. hoses don't need to come off, less chance of things getting stuffed up.

a) I think you must've had a broken one because you do need to remove the entire cover.

b) true but it is VERY difficult and just simple enough to remove the two tube packs and then your done

[Atreidae]

I may get round do doing a boot install guide too.. ive got one comming up shortly so ill make sure i take the camera

[VLACS]

awesome post. thanky you. and just in time. please do a boot install guide to. these are the 2 things im working on right now

[phat_com]

anyone know how to fix a H/U in a vh? mine slides in fine then it sticks out like an inch and a half
any1 know how to fix this or get around it?

[digisol]

Interesting pics - good stuff, shows commitment, But to be really slack I found a simpler way with the heat control lever was to just unscrew the centre pivot remove the top bush so it's not lost and let it just lay there, all vacum lines stay on.

The reason is that the a/c unit does not really need removing completely, just remove two of the wiring clips so the unit will come out 5" or so, while the dash centre section needs to be undone, it does not need to be completely removed, bringing it out as far as the a/c unit permits is good enough to get a screwdriver in there to undo the head unit.

Of course once the head unit's two mounting screws are undone it is in theory possible to put it all back together "minus any head unit" (if time does not permit or ya need to have a car basically in one piece) and the new wiring can then be done at your leasure.

The extra slack part comes in for me personally with the alarm having a closed loop wire that can be run through anything, so if they want to steal it the wire has to be cut setting off the alarm instantly, nevermind that first getting into the car via any door / window sets off the alarm anyhoo, and not knowing the thing is not bolted in can't be felt as the foam is compressed holding the head unit very tightly, with the alarm having a seperate power supply they are technically screwed either way, and by then the dog will have their nuts for dinner, a real nasty habit but they are criminals so who cares.

But to do it properly, the head unit black plastic surround will hide the modified center dash plastic allowing the two screws that the entire drama is all about to be fitted if needed, and with screw heads using security screen screws that need the special screw bit to undo the screws, as they are grade 8+ hardened steel drilling em does zip but break the drill bit, and by then they will have the dog having dinner on their testicals and a Remington 1100 full of 00 buck AKA SG's in their ear so they may give up.

Back to the point, with the closed loop in my fairly expensive Kenwood unit it can be fitted quite securely with 1" wide 1/8" thick stick on foam door weather seal strip that WILL hold the unit in place very well and isolated from vibration, not that it matters, the seperate stacker can go anywhere it fits, under the rear of the front drivers seat seems the go, changing 10 disks once a week seems fair and it's not rocket science.

Just a different approach on the basic idea that improves security, the two security screen or Torx bit mounting screws can and should be used either way, just in case they are prepared to smash the plastic to get at your new head unit, at least it will slow em up a tad, maybe enough for em to lose interest in taking it in one piece.

Remember the plastic centre dash panel will sometimes break where the mounting screws hold it on, keep some flat washers and 5 min araldite handy just in case.

[khalid]

hey man thanks awsom guide.id kiss u if u were here.lol..it hlped me rip out the interior for mi vn. to paint the console. YAY

[digisol]

Most that have cut the stock vehicle wiring harnes may have regretted it later on should another head unit need fitting I see this shown in the pics above.

There is a plug available with 7" or so of color coded wires ready to solder up / heatshrink the joints and simply plug it in to the existing loom and your good to go, it saves a lot of stress, time and any possibility of having a stray +ve wire hit any earth while working in the confined spaces of the dash.

The company is Aerpro found at the following web site, http://www.aerpro.com.au/ for Toyota Lexcen and Holden VR-VS is part # AP1783H, I found that in respect of the car's loom that the constant +ve wire is the Yellow and accesories is an Orange, opposite to many wiring diagrams so it pays to put a meter inside the existing plug just to check this out before going any further, Note; some seem to be different on the same model perhaps due to the car's manufacture date ?

After soldering the new plug's wires to the H/U chosen the new plug simply clips into the existing car's loom, shown on the packet are the new plug's wiring codes which were true to lable for my VS, and although different colours are in some wires on the car side of things, the wiring colours on the new plug side matched my Kenwood H/U exactly so it may well fit many other aftermarket h/u wiring, 11 basic wires are on most Kenwood H/U's, plus another two for the electric aerial, Blue and Blue/white.

The new plug is coded;

Yellow - +12v constant
Red - +12v accessories
Black - earth

Grey - right front (+)
Grey/black - right front (-)
White - left front (+)
White/black - left front (-)
Violet - right rear (+)
Violet/black - right rear (-)
Green - left rear (+)
Green/black - left rear (-)

* Pink - mute, "ignore"
* Blue - power antenna "ignore unless used"
* Blue/white - remote "ignore unless used"
* Orange - ilumination "ignore"
* Orange/white dimmer "ignore"

* sometimes not all fitted / not used, depends on model, 2 antenna wires will be fitted tho.

[Atreidae]

actualy. no i still have the stock plug on my wiring harness.... and the harness for the deck that came in the car when i bought it(the one in the picks) and the blaupunkt wiring harness too.... besides being an installer it takes me less than 5 minutes to rewire it anyway.

i would agree with the security bits.. but stay away from torx as most theives have torx bits these days (or atleast the tips for a drill) goto a nut and bolt shop and ask them for security bolts requiring a custom driver.

not that i need to worry.. the garage has a secuirty camera and motion detector in it :P

[VQXTC]

Most that have cut the stock vehicle wiring harnes may have regretted it later on should another head unit need fitting I see this shown in the pics above.

There is a plug available with 7" or so of color coded wires ready to solder up / heatshrink the joints and simply plug it in to the existing loom and your good to go, it saves a lot of stress, time and any possibility of having a stray +ve wire hit any earth while working in the confined spaces of the dash.

The company is Aerpro found at the following web site, http://www.aerpro.com.au/ for Toyota Lexcen and Holden VR-VS is part # AP1783H, I found that in respect of the car's loom that the constant +ve wire is the Yellow and accesories is an Orange, opposite to many wiring diagrams so it pays to put a meter inside the existing plug just to check this out before going any further, Note; some seem to be different on the same model perhaps due to the car's manufacture date ?

After soldering the new plug's wires to the H/U chosen the new plug simply clips into the existing car's loom, shown on the packet are the new plug's wiring codes which were true to lable for my VS, and although different colours are in some wires on the car side of things, the wiring colours on the new plug side matched my Kenwood H/U exactly so it may well fit many other aftermarket h/u wiring, 11 basic wires are on most Kenwood H/U's, plus another two for the electric aerial, Blue and Blue/white.

The new plug is coded;

Yellow - +12v constant
Red - +12v accessories
Black - earth

Grey - right front (+)
Grey/black - right front (-)
White - left front (+)
White/black - left front (-)
Violet - right rear (+)
Violet/black - right rear (-)
Green - left rear (+)
Green/black - left rear (-)

* Pink - mute, "ignore"
* Blue - power antenna "ignore unless used"
* Blue/white - remote "ignore unless used"
* Orange - ilumination "ignore"
* Orange/white dimmer "ignore"

* sometimes not all fitted / not used, depends on model, 2 antenna wires will be fitted tho.

Hey Digisol, I used to work with these plugs from Aerpro and I found that the Left and Right Rear speaker wires were reversed.......ie: Left is Right and Right is Left....

Not sure if they changed it by now...but that was nearly 12 months ago now...

[digisol]

All I know is the one I bought last week works properly when wired up as directed, all 4 speakers work as meant to.

Then again I did use a meter on all the wires just to be sure, but nothing was out of whack.

Sure makes it a giant heap easier rather than cutting the stock plug off the loom.

[mattman]

Yes the adaptors are the go.. most definitely.

Cost you around $20 and will solder up to the half-loom you should get with the HU. All things being nice, they should both use the new universal colours, which the VR-VS doesn't. This means you just have to solder colour-colour, makes it very very easy.

12Volt.. as to the centre console thing. You can lift up the shifter surround and spin it 90 degress, this gets it well out of the way of the screws hidden underneath, and as i said, there's no hassle of trying to get it over the shifter knob.

[pro_gmh]

I found this somewhere, i think here on JC. But here it is again...

[Shaneus]

Still no climate control. Are they as easy as the standard control?

[Tasmaniak]

Shaneus, I suggest you look. YOu will find behind there a plug of wires that you remove and then it is all done. Simpler then regular HVAC

[Atreidae]

Just an update for those thinking of PM'ing me absolute Bull, Im not interested dont waste my time, and once again i cant possibly see how you can damage your vehicle following the instructions on this page, but if you do its your own damn fault. Any PM's that come into my mailbox that are just plain stupid WILL be posted on chibiko.net and you will be made fun of (Ill even send you a bill for the hosting and advertising whilst im at it)
Whilst most of JC appreicates what I do and the time I gave up to make and post this guide the ones that dont grind my gears!

[CommyLover]

when trying to remove the transmission cover (auto), i have managed to loosen up teh left hand side of it but cant prise it up from the handbrake, is there a clip im missing or sumthing to the left of where u put ur fingers? ic ant get it loose.

is tehre a trick, do i have to push it in then up or do i just get my hand in and rip it up?(i feel as tho if i force it any more the whoel thing is going to snap)

thnx for the help

[Blakie]

Awesome guide, helped me heaps and saved me alot of time, took me only like 20 minutes to take the whole thing out after reading this guide , i only have an issue with the wiring, i know i need to convert but my radio connection is also wrong, it doesnt fit into the cd player i have now does anyone know how this can be fixed?, and i was just wondering, with the converting using the plug to bare wires, how is it done?

cheers for all the help this has saved me time and money! :P

[OVA17]

hey mate this is good if u got a half a day to do the install. or u can do the "commodore cut" (this is what they do at JB HiFi, Strathfield, Autobarn and NorthField do) where the 2 screws that hold the head unit in, the plastic gets cut out (with a air saw) in front of these 2 screws (does not make dash weaker and doesnt change apperance of dash). 10 times easier. and all it takes is 40mins to do. will get a pic of the dash next i have to apart which wil proberly be soon. well thats my 2cents

KADE

[Tasmaniak]

but it only takes me 25 minutes to install into one of these commodores. No cutting required. Guess that explains why we always charged more. We were more professional and refused to cut up a customers car.

[VLishes]

Jeezus, this is the first time I am looking at this guide, and here I thought that it will take 10 mins, man I miss my VL. Thanks for the guide though.

[Avi8or]

Very good guide . I would like to add my 2c, as I was just removing my glovebox to clean it.

If your having trouble with the holding pin find an allan key or something that will fit which is bent at 90 degree's. Then go to the other side of the holding pin (closest to the center console) and stick the end of the allan key up against the end of the pin (best way is to come from bottom/side). Then all I had to do was give it a few bangs with my palm (or you can use a very small hammer) and the pin pops out. I'll take some photo's if you need any more help