Hoping someone might know about applying the 2k to my front bar cover. I have just about finished priming it and now need to figure the best way to apply white. I was thinking of getting 2k white and blowing it on But I am seeing most vids are using 2k base then clear. Be good if I can find out the advantages and disadvantages of both methods? I was thinking I had no need for clear and just applying 2k top coat and leaving it at that, but I am now not so sure? It's been a mammoth job stripping, sanding, filling and priming that I don't want to ruin 8-10hrs of work by stuffing up the final stage.
Ask yourself a question @ Do I have a safe ventilated spray/baking booth at home to handle 2K ???. Your answer will decide what you do.
You’re talking about
single stage 2K solid paint = colour/clear/hardener sprayed together .. versues..
two stage 2K = colour/clear sprayed separately..... You can also just spray two stage 2K base colour and then coats of 1K clear over it without issues for shine if you don’t have a proper spray baking booth or worried about your results.
Single stage solid colour 2K
dries satin gloss and is basically what you get straight of the gun and is cheaper, easier, quicker to finish job but plenty of peel and you can get away with it in a shed but it won’t last long today in the uv environment and fade quickly plus chip easier. A lot of commercial/utes were painted in the cheaper single stage 2K plain solid colours like red, white, black.
At home in your situation,
easier to spray 1K base colour and 1k clear and less chance you will ruin your previous work plus your ute is factory 1K .... even if you don’t have safety, experience, or patience or time for full 2K, it’s very hard to get everything needed absolutely right in a shed/outdoor environment ...
that doesn’t mean it can’t be done. The 2k with many layers/coats even in hot/cold shed won’t harden/chemical reaction properly and will stink of dangerous fumes for a long time. The hardeners/catalysts are for spraying conditions and end result, not for curing to work on.
It’s basically
stick to what you know/experience in 1K which is more forgiving, don’t risk the biscuits or take it to a spray painter to get it done professionally in 2K like your rear bumpers, considering you have saved $$ doing all the prep yourself and wont ruin that work. The single stage 2K solid colour/clear is your other option at home......
Two stage 2K is solvent/uv resistant and the best result, though very expensive $$$ especially if you make a misteak without good equipment.