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I have a air con problem too... clutch isn't kicking in due to an electrical issue. All connected and gassed up ok and the compressor / clutch is a known good one. I think I can trigger the compressor at the relay.

This is one of the 'hard lines' that has a screwed connection into the top of the radiator near the coolant overflow tank. I couldn't get it to seal, so I disconnected it and noted that it was just a metal spigot connection to a smooth metal face inside the screwed connection. This doesn't seem...

My secondary thermo does not turn on like the main one, when the motor is running. Should it always be going, or does it only kick in at certain times? Is there a way to diagnose if it is working?

After replacing motor on my VY, I am left with this part dangling around, which I have just zip tied in place for now. I think it may have broken off while removing and reinstalling the radiator? If you any of you know what it is, that would help thanks!

What is the easiest way to bypass switches and relays to identify an electrical issue with the a/c. I have got it regassed properly but still no go, so there is an electrical issue that it is not getting the signal to 'kick in'. What should I bypass to get it going?

Really hoping this is a 2/3 solenoid (B I think), but is there any way to know for sure without dropping the pan?

Normal VY trans attached to normal V6. Was running ok, but then I got home one day and checked the fluid and found it basically bone dry (in park, while running etc). So I filled it up, and drove off. Immediately it no longer shifted from 2nd to 3rd. It will basically rev, as if in neutral, but...

I have same problem after changing engine, loom, ecu and bcm. Compressor will not kick in. If there are no bolts to the compressor loom plug, what can cause this? How do I manually bridge the connections to test?

Did you figure this out? I'm in a similar position after swapping a VY motor into a VY supercharged loom/ecu/bcm. I put a VT chip in and it runs smoother but stalls really quickly at idle.

One more thing: at the mechanic, when the VY memcal was attached, it kept throwing an AIR MASS SENSOR code, but they couldn't see a problem with the sensor itself. Guessing this is caused by a difference between VY and VY supercharged wiring looms?

Yeah I do still have the whole supercharged block plus heads plus intake etc. Not sure if I want to sell it, but what is one of those supercharger's usually worth?

Update: she spent all day in at the mechanic, and they couldn't figure out what was wrong. All vac lines etc checked out. We eventually all concluded it must be computer related, but they didn't have the know-how to deal with that. Then, I found this guy Jason on gumtree who has heaps of...

Can I replace with an already paired BCM and ECU + key, without a Tech 2?

Or do I need to replace whole PCM? and is that matched to BCM?

So would a VT or VX memcal work ok in that motor with the VY loom?

Ok cool. So we couldn't have pulled the memcal from the standard ecotec VY donor car anyway? And we need to find a suitable matching memcal, possibly from a VT? Its at mechanic now... wonder if this will cost me an arm and a leg for them to do it.

So is the memcal replaceable in the VY? I heard something was soldered on but is that the PCM, and the memcal bit can be swapped?

How is this done, do you need a special handset to do it or something?

At this stage it seems the opposite is happening (problems at low revs not high), so does mean it is probably some other issue like vacuum or fuel flow or a sensor problem?

Ok, this is the memcal/computer from the supercharged version, connected to the non supercharged one. How do we make it right? Does a mechanic have to do this retune with some fancy computer, or can I do it?

A couple of other things: it has new plugs, good leads, good alternator, good battery. New oil, new coolant etc.

So the motor has been replaced with a normal V6 but it now has a chugging / missing issue, you can read the story at http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/vy-holden-commodore-2002-2004/248454-v6-replaced-into-car-supercharged-v6-now-chugging-idle-whats-wrong.html#post2777312

So the bottom end from my supercharged V6 VY series II seized, and yesterday we installed a 'normal' non supercharged V6 into it. Had a few issues during install, such as EGR valve tube doesn't seem to have an equivalent on the supercharged exhaust assembly so we just blocked the egr valve at...

Thought it might have been fouling in the flexplate area, but everything looks ok in the starter motor window (jacked it up, took off the heat shield, then took two bolts and moved starter motor so I could look in): https://youtu.be/B3SveDnGV8g Then, took off drivers side rocker cover and...

Cool, thanks for the feedback. Anything else I can do to diagnose this stuff without fully stripping it down? If it likely to be serious internal damage, I think I will just replace with second hand engine.

Ok, I had a clack-clack noise that was not really noticeable at high rpm or under load, but that was more noticeable after engine was hot and in deceleration. It was there even when car was stopped and running. It got progressively worse one day over a 40km trip, becoming a very cloud knocking...

Yeah, I am going to do thermostat and water pump at the same time, plus coolant and oil flush, plus it needs an injector clean...looking at about $1200 at the moment. Pretty annoyed Holden didn't pick this up on the two trips I took it to them when it was overheating! This has been the cause all...

Ok, thanks guys. What would an intake gasket replacement job on the supercharged version usually cost? Just wondering. PS. This car has been kind of a nightmare this year, have spent about 2k doing things from alternator to front suspension bushes - its at about 180000kms and it just seems to...

Thanks for the comments. I started it this morning (running rough at start), then drove it to mechanic 15kms without overheating. He did a few pressure tests and didn't find any obvious leaks - but he did say that each time after pressure testing, when he started the car it would run rough for a...

I'm pretty sure its losing water. I took the radiator lid off this morning and it sucked in heaps of air, then it took like 2 litres of water into the radiator. Off to mechanic in the morning. I'm guessing a leak from water pump, because I replaced the radiator not too long ago. Not sure exactly...

I have an intermittent overheating problem on 2003 supercharged VY Calais. It has 180000kms and has had heaps of work done to it this year (lots of $$$). Here are the details: it will only over heat on very short trips, and usually when in traffic I have system bled and tested multiple...

Brake pads x 4 + brake fluid flush is about $300, not sure I can afford to get discs machined or replaced. Is it worth doing pads only?

According to my last trip to Holden, I need: Front sway bar link rubber Front radius rod bushes Upper strut mounts Prices I am getting are around $500 for the radius rod bush kit, and 165 for the sway bar link rubber (supply and install). This seems steep to me? I would love to do it...

Surprised I didn't even get one response to this... In any case, I bought a new multimeter and tested this the next day. Battery 12.6volts, car running 14.0volts. Seems that everything has settled down.

How did you replace the regulator? With it still on vehicle / back of alternator? I just installed a new alternator and regulator, but I think the regulator is faulty, see...

The alternator died on the VY this week - fairly typical failure, "Check Alternator" came on dash screen, then two days later car basically stopped. I had noticed that the old alternator seemed a bit unusually hot to touch, but I thought that this was because it had failed. So I bought a new...

Wish I had a better look when I was under there on Saturday!! So are you saying the transmission may have to be removed to fix this wiring issue?

How could I fix this?

A few weeks back, I shifted from Reverse into Drive and then it seemed to just rev without giving me forward momentum (slipping?). After turning car off, then on, and leaving foot on brake and carefully putting it into drive, I was able to get the car moving forward again. It drove OK for a...

Ended up getting a mobile mechanic to do it - crank angle sensor was gone, the water pump had been leaking onto it. He replaced harmonic balancer, some pulleys, serpentine belt, water pump, CAS - ended up just shy of $800.