VY Calais Supercharged: Clacking noise and then Seized, bottom end or something else?

[Luke Johnson]

Ok, I had a clack-clack noise that was not really noticeable at high rpm or under load, but that was more noticeable after engine was hot and in deceleration. It was there even when car was stopped and running. It got progressively worse one day over a 40km trip, becoming a very cloud knocking noise. I got out and inspected the motor while it was still running, and it seemed this noise was coming from the top of the motor, driver side, near the back. There were no oil or temp warnings, temp was fine, and I knew that oil level was right. I headed off again and after going about 10kms (motor was still driving well, just the noise), the motor just stopped. I had to roll to a safe point on the road.

A friendly mechanic pulled over and inspected the motor, attempted to turn it over by hand, pulling belts etc and bottom end seemed very firm but there was a little bit of 'play' in it. We inspected the oil and noticed a 'sparkly fleck' on the dipstick, but no massive shavings. Got the vehicle towed and let it cool down. I was thinking bottom end bearing is gone, replacement motor time (and that still might be the case).

Inspection of oil is now that it appears more muddy and blackish. I got a bar on the bottom pulley and attempted to turn motor over by hand - surprisingly, I was able to turn it about one full revolution in either direction, but then it would come to a hard, metal sounding stoppage. Strangely, it felt and sounded like the thing that was stopping the motor turn over was at the top of the engine, not in the bottom end. I have taken a video of me turning it over so you can have a look:
http://youtu.be/Ci11UIuxBLk

And a video of underneath the car:
http://youtu.be/Q_R18SbHWMs

Another mate has suggested that this could be something gone wrong in the torque converter, possibly bolt come loose. It did sound a little 'rattley' at times I suppose, it was never a booming knock as people describe for bottom end.

What do you think is wrong with it?

 

[Immortality]

Broken valve spring, dropped valve?

Could be any number of things, regardless your going to have to strip the engine.

The sparkly fleck would suggest bearing material which would possibly suggest a spun big end bearing which is locking up at a certain point.

 

[Luke Johnson]

Broken valve spring, dropped valve?

Cool, thanks for the feedback. Anything else I can do to diagnose this stuff without fully stripping it down? If it likely to be serious internal damage, I think I will just replace with second hand engine.

 

[Immortality]

Take the rocker covers off, will soon see if it's a broken valve spring/dropped valve.

The knocking noise coupled with the sparkly oil contamination suggest something more serious though and a spun bearing isn't unheard off unfortunately.

 

[graham7773]

Dropped a con rod or blown piston

 

[Luke Johnson]

Thought it might have been fouling in the flexplate area, but everything looks ok in the starter motor window (jacked it up, took off the heat shield, then took two bolts and moved starter motor so I could look in):
https://youtu.be/B3SveDnGV8g

Then, took off drivers side rocker cover and turned motor over again, looked like the valve rocker nearest firewall was not actuating at all:
https://youtu.be/l5ob6HxMOtM

But then, maybe it just wasn't at that point in the stroke? All the push rods were visible on this side.

My next steps are: drop the oil and sump and have a look for bits of steel, and/or take off passenger side rocker cover and inspect. Mate also suggested taking plugs out and fishing for pistons with a screwdriver.

I took off both serpentine belts, so I am rotating only the crankshaft. It is weird how it rotates relatively easily for about 1/3 turn (I can feel the compression etc) and then it just hits a 'brick wall', well, a steel something that is stopping it rotating.

In any case, probably looking at a motor replacement. Anyone got any good guides on how to replace a VY motor in a shed? Also would be great to hear any tips about swapping the supercharger over.

 

[Luke Johnson]

So the motor has been replaced with a normal V6 but it now has a chugging / missing issue, you can read the story at http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/vy-holden-commodore-2002-2004/248454-v6-replaced-into-car-supercharged-v6-now-chugging-idle-whats-wrong.html#post2777312

 

[EYY]

Do you still have the supercharged v6? Would you be willing to sell parts off it?

Usually misfiring or rough running at idle is caused by a vac leak (check hoses under throttle body), or bad coil packs or dfi module

 

[Luke Johnson]

Do you still have the supercharged v6? Would you be willing to sell parts off it?

Usually misfiring or rough running at idle is caused by a vac leak (check hoses under throttle body), or bad coil packs or dfi module

Yeah I do still have the whole supercharged block plus heads plus intake etc. Not sure if I want to sell it, but what is one of those supercharger's usually worth?