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Come down and join us at his workshop one day then?

Ran the 10.8 at WSID. Motor has been pulled out, and fully rebuilt. One of those links above I think may actually show the dyno run of the new motor (757RWHP) Unsure how many times it came back after the 10.8, but it was there a bit. As for me comparing my car to a commodore, and it's never...

Since it's not my car, no I don't have a time slip on it. Can quite possibly find the one from when it ran a 10.8 on a completely standard internalled motor (Stock cams as well) As for mine, it's never hit the full strip (Goes there soon as my engine management side is sorted out) but pitted...

Nah, I don't do fly bys. If I drop behind, I don't keep going, and there's only 2 cars I've lost two, one would be a mates 10second GTR, the other to my mates GTS-t because all I did was drop the clutch for a touch of fun and smoke show 1st 2nd and 3rd. And a GTR isn't the quickest skyline...

Pre 99 boxes will shatter at a 7000RPM launch yes, MY06 STi box is nearly invincible... Why do you think so many people put them in the MY05 and MY06 WRX after a box break? As for "your mate", I'll play that game all night long if you want. I'll find a time, once I'm back on the road, and I'll...

I'm not a huge fan of the WRX, I'm looking at cold hard facts. The WRX has a better power to weight ratio, it's AWD, and it runs a close ratio gearbox compared to a commodore. As for only an EVO9 coming near an LS1... I sold my VR V6 Manual as it was going to cost WAY too much to get to the...

And you drive what, that goes how quick to say this? And how much have you spent on the motor / driveline, compared to a stock WRX?

Auto WRX are a ****load quicker then a VN/VP Stall them up, they get going good to. Hit boost, and you're away. Your VN/VP is still sitting there attempting to: A) Get off the mark, B) Stop wheel spinning

7000RPM clutch dump is launching a WRX, not slipping the clutch with 2500RPM up it. Seriously, drop the clutch, at redline, and watch the monkey go. My mates GTR launches at 4000RPM and spins all 4s, and can only be kept up with by either other AWD, or those with semi slicks/full slicks...

RB25DET - 500RWHP stock internals, 1JZ-GTE - upto 1000RWHP standard internals... Both motors around $2500 with looms and ECU, can be picked up at $2000 witha manual box at times too...

Firing order will stuff you up. They're quite strange. From memory, one top, then it's bottom fires, but slightly after the first one top fires the second top fires, and then the bottom on it fires, kinda like top-top --- bottom - bottom

2.0Litres I've seen quicker, from the factory, then a 5.7L V8 SS... Engine displacement isn't the problem. Nor is out right power. It's how fast a car can actually accelerate. Think about it, a Big V8 truck, can't accelerate at all, but pulls over 600HP, yet a small car, light weight, like a...

You can outlaunch a WRX? Got to be kidding right? My bet is most weren't even bothered to try. I out run most cars using around 1/4 - 1/2 throttle. V8s I flick to high and use full throttle. But managing a WRX, off the mark? I'm pushing 185RWKW, in a close ratio box, in a car 150-200KG...

The 4L60E is quite differently electronically from VR-VS and again from VS-VT, and then from VX - VY it changed again. Thinks such as changing from a normal on/off solenoid to a PWM solenoid for certain controls, resistances changed, things like that.

Still for sale? Would you want trade+ cash adjust if possible? (Trade for a work ute)

Mine = a fun buggy, muck around, burnout, little bit of track work, (Need to go speak to the local go-kart place, they've allowed it before) build it easy, build it cheap (Hence going FR setup as I have most of the gear already, just need to buy metal) The buggy from this thread = Rock Climbing.

Looking very hot there mate. And after something similar is about to start in my back shed. But I won't be running a V8 motor, nor a powerglide... :p Looking at running a 3.8L commo motor, with a few little tricks to get it all short, and narrow (Think, Go-Kart with 125KW at fly...) Most likely...

****, now I see where it all went. Obviously there is some absolutely serious gear in there! For those out there with sources, you could probably build one for $2000 for a cheapy running old motorbike motor (Note: Would NOT be good for this sort of work ^^^)

Woah, that's pretty espensive. Any chance you can make an average price break down. As I can't see there being that much in $$$ in steel (Maybe $2000) Prob $600-$1000 in brake system Say $10 000 in engine/gearbox/diffs. I can't get up near $25 000 for a home build... You could even pick up a...

Fair enough then Maddog. I misunderstood which type of rock climbing you were doing, basically, if you did run the manual, by the sounds of it, you'd be replacing the clutch once a week... :p

Just a small note on this. But a mate of mine races buggies, much like this in NT, but circuit running, not rock climbing. Now, he runs manual last time I checked, so that he can run off the power and when he hits the throttle, be back in the same gear. Now, I've been 4WDing in both auto and...

Hey MAK I actually sold the 15" a while ago, hence why I stopped bumping it. But I am thinking of selling my 12" sub (same model, but 12") I can't remember the height of the sub at all (As I've never measured it) but if you want, I can go and measure my 12", but I'm still deciding if I sell it...

I have a VR manual for sale... But how much you willing to spend?

VS Commodore if you can find a good cheap one.

Push down hard on it, whilst you attempt to turn it. Should "lock" the ratchet setup.

I don't see the point, in putting Chev badges on a Holden. If anyone here, came up against a true Chev in a race, they'd be gob smacked. It would LEAVE THEM FOR DEAD! Our old '88 model car STILL keeps up with the VY-VZ SS Commodores, and it's 18 years older! Think abuot what the NEW chevs do...

I wouldn't advise a catback exhaust. As the V6 N/A will go for a 2.5" single system, whereas the Supercharged, would be more like a 3" system. Only thing I would advise would be something more like a CAI with a good filter. 1.9 or 1.97 RR. You're looking at around $650 - $700 for the RR. And...

I'd say it's the switch in the door. Mine does the exact same thing Sometimes a spray with WD40, or graphite lube makes it all go again.

The 16"s still for sale? Can you price up cost to ship them to 2518 (In Wollongong, NSW) Thanks. Matt

What series VS do you have? If it's a VS S2, you're better off getting a wrecked VS/VT and converting from that, as the VS S2 onwards, runs a hydraulic clutch... Although it will work, I beleive there is some SLIGHT stuffing around to do...

Well done mate! Some times these things just happen!

Where's the "drive off" option? :P I use my key card, or if it's got no money on it, I use the fuel account and pay it back later.

The higher then what I worked out, could be due to the fact it's been rebuilt, with the heads shaved. This bumps the CR up a little bit (hence, more pressure) You have a 10PSi difference, on a 130PSi minimum, this is around 8% difference, totally acceptable. What is the rest of the vehicle...

It's not a shift solenoid It's not the power button. The girl would be telling the truth, the car could well be missing the power button. Reason: IT'S NOT AN ELECTRONIC GEARBOX! There are a few, and I mean a few, farely rare, VRs that have the 4L60 gearbox in them, instead of the 4L60E (Even...

The rough approx I did work out, should make it lie at around 130PSi, so that's a perfectly acceptable number. The compression in an engine can change as the compression ratio is altered in the engine.

Sounds like timing is WAY out! Check the lead order. Check the wires going to the coil packs are set correct... ;)

Except tyres are RATED to 60PSi, and heating the tyre up, the amount it will, will raise it around 3 degrees, putting your total pressure at around 48psi, leaving you still another 12PSi before hitting the "rating" which also has a safety factor built into it. You sir, are a smack!

Say what now? They LOOSE grip when getting out of a slip stream? That's the biggest load of **** I've heard yet about wings/racing! When you're in a slip stream, the car in front "punches" a hole through the air, and creates a negative vacuum behind it, which, is what creates a "slip stream"...

I spoke to a guy who does all of my wheel alignments, and even sets cars up for track work etc. He told me not to TOUCH the sways bars,until springs and shocks abnd bushes are all done. The reason being, swaybar should be a final tuning point. To get more point in at the front, you fit a rear...

That graph is all over the place, with a big spike, then a drop, then ramping up again. I beleive it's all in the tune! Are you able to give us a dyno sheet with your AFR on them? Also, are you able to get a copy of the fuel map and ign map?