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pinging itself all the way to the finish line... that's what you want :D

Guy at my peformance shops reccommends to stay the hell away from Castrol Edge... he sees alot more wear in motors who run it. One cam had completely wasted lobes. I wouldnt run anything thinner than a 50 weighted oil in my car

install mistakes? I wouldnt have thought theres much to it... slide in the new rotors... obviously make sure they go into the needle bearings at the back properly... then put the bolts back on lol

beauty mate :)

Hi guys, Just wondering who here is using these? and for how long? I'm a bit worried that removing material from inside the rotors will weaken them, god knows how fast these things spin with a 2.55" pulley, and the enourmous kinetic and centrifugal force exerted on the rotors... this might...

thats a tiny cam alright

mate had a dodgy N/A RB30 to turbo conversion R31.... did AFR in the 18's at full noise... loved it :D

depends on how its tuned... normally around 25% throttle or so

i wouldnt bother getting it engineered... they came stock with these motors... so chances are you won't be hassled about it. Thats assuming youre gonna keep it reasonably stock, i.e maybe just smaller pulley and rockers.

who gives a crap... when its empty go and fill it up... otherwise just go buy a getz

I'd get the L67 and a2a intercool it + 2.55" pulley and MAFless tune.... will have much more torque and be way more fun than a 5L.

The standard ecotec fuel pump will work fine for a stock L67... i think it maxes out at a bit over 200rwhp

should be around the $600 mark if you use the alloy type gasket (dont let them put the crappy plastic gasket on again) Btw, your radiator fans are working, right?

doesnt matter if it 2 or 12 cylinders.... if its forced induction (super or turbo charged) you should always use highest octane fuel available. Have a read about octane, engine knock etc... and youl understand :)

and for gods sake use 98 octane! couple of bucks more a tank....

my mechanic did it in about half an hour... coupler was 35 bucks i think... then a bit of supercharger oil... cost like 120 bucks or so if i remember correctly

check for error codes, maybe even datalog with tunerpro and get someone on delcohaxcks to check the log... or bring it to your local performance shop and tell them to find out whats wrong (if they're any good)

Mobil1 5W 50 has been recommended to me by a guy who's had many oil samples analysed in lab for metal and wear particles... Mobil1 5W/50 came out best. Apparently Mobil1 also put the most R&D into their oils and supply the majority of base oil to the market. Ive been using it and its been great.

start with 3.4" pulley, then exhaust, then 1.9 YT roller rockers. Then datalog/remote tune. Will be around 230rwhp in it for you.

"19" PSI pulley... could mean anything... I'm assuming you're talking about the 2.55" MACE one? Yes, the blower will handle it fine... might pay to get a 8 rib belt setup though.... and a mild port job would be nice too. And you're obviously A2A cooling it, yes?

yep...normal

hit up a member on this forum called The1... he has been remote tuning my supercharged VT... he is absolutely awesome! In a nutshell: you get a free program called tunerpro... a USB ALDL cable that hooks up to your diagnostic port under the steering wheel... then you log the data with tunerpro...

yes forgot to say... of course the car should not remain jacked from the diff... stands must be used.

ive always done it like that and am under the impression thats the general industry practice? Could be wrong though....

yer just run stock rockers with the cam man... smartest thing to do

nah should bolt straight up to the exhaust manifold... the heads are the same on the L36 and L67... only the injector bosses are drilled out ion the L67. PS... im only 99.95% sure on this lol

theyre the same... just block off the EGR port like you said.

different... L67 are 3 wire (or was it 4?)

check AFR levels on a dyno

you want a 50 or 60 weight oil for these motors in these hot climates... the first "W" number indicated how well it flows on cold start up... so something like 5x50 or 10w60 would be ideal. And no... 5W or 10W does not mean the oil is "too thin"... its the second number that indicates viscosity...

china spec turbo kit on ebay is 3 - 4 grand or so.... if you can install it yourself. Then youl probably need to upgrade fuel system... not sure another grand or so... then get a tune... either kalmaker or possibly someone to remote tune it with tunerpro laptop and wideband o2 sensor. A well...

I know where youre coming from mate.... you want to do something to your car, and youre hoping a cute little $250 "mod" will give you a noticable difference... but its just not gonna happen on a NA V6 If you really have to then rockers, memcal tuned for 98 octane, and, if you can find one...

who built your transmission...? Im also in WA and want to avoid the shop who built yours lol Other than that I'd bring it back to the person who built it and ask them to fix it... hopefully the work is under warranty?

if you plan on upping the boost you MUST rund 98 octane... ALL THE TIME

why no 1.9 rockers? Those alone will probably give you more gain than all that other stuff combined...

do the rockers first man... you will see good gains expecially since its forced induction... maybe even get a remote tune to get even more out of them. then do exhaust

5 - 7 grand

could be coil packs on their way out too.... EDIT: lol nevermind

how far back is the turbo gonna be? I mean won't the exhaust gases be way too cold by then? I dont get it... if they really need to P platers should just get a diff with 3.9 gears (can also use it later on when upgrading to V8 or whatever) 1.9 rockers, run 98 octane fuel and get a custom remote...

I did my conversion last year in a mates garage... trying to remember the important parts now lol... it wasn't "hard" just fiddelly and annoying at times did you get it with the transmission attached? Thats how I did it.... take my advice and take the radiator out before you start lol... I...