'04 VZ SV6 Fuel Pump

[Fu Manchu]

No no! You don’t pull the key head apart!
You just undo the screws and slide out the key blade. They are two separate parts. Where the blade slots in is a thin earthing tab. Clean the mating surfaces with a cotton tip and metho or contact cleaner on the cotton tip.

 

[Fu Manchu]

There should be two places there’s power at the relay to test.
One is 12v constant and the other is the control/trigger that should light up a test light when the ignition is switched on. That’s the important one to check in this situation.

If there is power at the relay is there power to the the pump? The purple wire. If so, is there power at the fuel pump on the purple wire?

Is there power to the pump from the back of the pump harness plug on the pump side? Use a pin (don’t let it touch anything!) to back probe the back of the plug and get a multimeter on that. This tests for a loose connection.

Power at the relay on purple wire and no power at the harness plug at the pump will mean a broken wire somewhere or a loose connection.

 

[ToastMalone]

UPDATE:

Ended up just getting a brand new key cut/programmed to the car this morning, No luck.

After cranking it i noticed the fuel filter was dripping fuel from the return line going into the T peice on the outlet from the fuel filter, ended up buying a new fuel filter.

Tried to get the fuel line connectors off and it just wouldn't budge, ended up racing back down the street and buying the fuel line scissor tool, got back to the car and the stupid weak tool just snapped,

Tried to get it off by hand again and ended up breaking the plastic T piece (After running around from store to store NO-ONE seemed to have ever seen one of the plastic T pieces and no one had a supplier for them).
So I decided to purchase some 10mm fuel hose and a brass T piece to try rig something up but didn't trust the idea of it, ended up running over to my local car wreckers and grabbed a plastic T piece from another car.
Tried to put that on and realised my return hose was fraying and pretty busted, tried to get it to grab the best I could but it kept popping off when I cranked the car, cut a inch off of that and then had the issue were the hose wasn't long enough.. Ended up replacing the whole line from the tank to the T piece, hose clamp was
buggered also so had to race down and grab some hose clamps, After a crazy long day of stuffing around the fuel filter is back in and secure.

Didn't get a chance to put the crank angle sensor in so I'll get that in tomorrow morning

(FUEL PUMP SEEMS TO BE WORKING WHEN ITS CRANKING NOW AS IT WAS POPPING THE DAMN HOSE OFF FROM PRESSURE LOL (Can't hear priming though, think its just very quiet))

 

[Fu Manchu]

Once pressure is in the line, the pump won’t prime.

You can repair the factory line. I’ll find the parts for you.

Also to remove the lines. Remove the fuel pump relay. Start the car and bleed the pressure.

Then, on the fuel line near the pump, Push in, squeeze sides, pull back and off.

 

[Fu Manchu]

 

[ToastMalone]

Oh right -
Yeahh one I got off no problem but one has been gone at with a screwdriver or something, Repco said it looks like its been pulled out 500 times lol

 

[Fu Manchu]

https://quickbitz.com.au/products/rwf-715-06-06p

Hmm. I swear I found a heap of parts for someone the other week.

 

[ToastMalone]

Nice easy technique in that video, After the stuff around the fuel lines are all hooked up secure now just had to use a different hose.

Crank angle sensor tomorrow. Any suggestions what else it could be if that doesn't work?
Have fuel and spark now

 

[ToastMalone]

https://quickbitz.com.au/products/rwf-715-06-06p

Hmm. I swear I found a heap of parts for someone the other week.

Oooh yeah this clip is pretty good it was the one on the outlet going into the T piece thing I had so much trouble with

 

[Fu Manchu]

To take things further you need a skilled diagnostic tech. Auto Sparkies “generally” (plenty of good ones too) are a bit off the mark with diagnostic skills and equipment. It quite a specialised field and one in its own right.

Without any diagnostic skills or equipment as I’ve shown in the previously linked videos, you’ll be parts swapping to solve it until the whole car has been changed.

I would seek a mobile diagnostic tech.

Still no answers on the fuel relay or continuity from the pump to the relay.

If the pump works but no pressure, you have a Robles with either the pump, the install of the pump (internal leak) or a leak (external).