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1998 vt commo overheating???

ajr1784

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Hi,

I'm a newbie and was after any info as my vt 1998 commo which i just purchased about three weeks ago also has an overheating problem!

Anyways,here goes.

When i first inspected the car prior to purchasing and just after the initial test drive i checked to see if their were any coolant leaks.Everything seemed ok,or as it seemed.Later that night when i did a little more driving i parked it on a hill and noticed a decent amount of coolant leaking somewhere from the radiator.It was dark so i really couldnt see exactly where it was coming from but some was around the cap.

A cousin of mine told me to replace the radiator cap as that's sometimes a cause so that's exactly what i did.This helped i guess to create a better seal which then forced the coolant out of a hole in the radiator.

I then had a new radiator installed,system flush and thermo was o'kayed on the receipt.They guy that worked on it showed me the old radiator and was definately had it! I've been driving the car ever since with no problems until today!

I was driving the car probably 20 minutes total and at around 80-100 km's which included about 10mins of being stuck in slow moving traffic with the fan not air con on.I'd noticed that the heat gauge was roughly reading half way.I could also smell a sorta burning/overheating smell then started noticing steam from the bonnet.

As soon as i saw this i pulled of the road and could hear it bubbling away.I let it cool down then popped the cap and filled with water,started the car and filled more as the level went down.I didn't even run the car for a minute and it was already starting to bubble from where the cap is ( ran with cap off ) and the water was getting from cold to really hot withing this time.

I checked the oil and didn't look milky and there was no water in the exaust.
I've since found a crack in one of the radiator hoses,the one thats located near the bottom right hand side.I'll replace that tomorrow and also check the thermostat.

I've now replaced the hose and put a new thermostat in with gasket and gasket glue.I've done the radiator hose clamps up tight and now after driving i'm noticing water leaking out of the thermostat seal!

The thermo bolts are done up fairly tight and thinking if i do them up any tighter the casing could crack..

Was just curious to see if anybody here might have any thoughts or ideas of what problems could be the cause! I would really like to fix this damn headache as ASAP.


Any help will be much appreciated,will also update my status when the problem is found and fixed.

Cheers,

ADAM

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som

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I can't believe that no one has replied to your thread.Anyway,I haven't replaced a thermostat for years (must be luck) so I don't remember exactly if you will have an "o"ring or a gasket or both so here goes.Firstly you were correct,you don't have to use a 30cm extension to tighten the bolts but nor should it leak.I would remove the housing and start again.There will be a groove in the base for the thermostat to sit in,making sure that it's right way up.There may also be a groove in the top housing for the o ring to sit in (make sure that you've dug out any old o ring that may be baked in there).Now,providing you've cleaned the 2 flat surfaces and applied sealer to both surfaces you simply place the gasket and then the top housing.Initially you should only tighten the bolts by hand until it's all snugly seated,then tighten gently whilst swapping from one bolt to the other to ensure even tension.As you said ,you don't have to over tighten but they do need to be tight and ,just as important,even.Good luck,the last thing you need is an engine overheating and after the work you've done you don't deserve that.
 

som

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Just another point to note;make sure that you thoroughly bleed the system .There is a bleeder valve on top of the thermostat housing.The engine must be at operating temperature to allow the thermostat to open (which can be sped up a bit by turning on the A/C and you should turn your heater on to ensure that you don't have air in the heater system either.Again,good luck
 

ajr1784

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Thanks for your reply! I'm gonna give it another shot,I'll bleed the system after reinstalling.Hopefully it will be right this time! Just ordered a service manual and hopefully make things easier in the future..

Just another point to note;make sure that you thoroughly bleed the system .There is a bleeder valve on top of the thermostat housing.The engine must be at operating temperature to allow the thermostat to open (which can be sped up a bit by turning on the A/C and you should turn your heater on to ensure that you don't have air in the heater system either.Again,good luck
 

FATMOE

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It's normal for a VT to overheat, that's why nobody has replied to his thread. It was only one day relax buddy.
 

Jonah 101

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I would have thought the radiator boys would have done a pressure test before letting it out of the shop.
 

som

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It's not "normal" for any car to overheat and if you don't want to be replacing head gaskets,or worse still heads,then it's really preferable that they don't.Anyway ,I'm very relaxed,as always but,forgetting that last night was Friday night and anyone younger than me(I'm told that that is almost everyone) who has half a life,would have been out socialising,I thought that it would have been good for someone who had replaced a thermostat recently to give a new member a bit of a hand.At the end of the day he's obviously not a dill and seems to have all bases covered.Have a good weekend.
 

ajr1784

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That's what it says on the radiator receipt...I just don't see why the thermostat housing would still leak after i've put a new gasket and gasket glue on with following the right procedures! It's also weird going from a 4cl to a 6cl,these things get a hell of a lot hotter and quick too..

I would have thought the radiator boys would have done a pressure test before letting it out of the shop.
 

som

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If the thermostat is in good nick and is the correct thermostat,then your engine should reach operating temperature quite quickly.It should not run hot!!! and if everything is spot on it won't.As Jonah 101 said you should not be having these problems when it's been to a radiator shop.
 
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