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2007 VE V8 Radiator top tank busted

Joelene

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This is by now a very common problem with VE V8 radiators. Typically around the plus or minus 100,000kms mark.
There is no fix for it other than a new radiator. If you buy the genuine you are looking at around $500 - $550 and $55 for 5L coolant.
Aftermarket start around $200 but don't know what you are getting. The important thing is the genuine fits and clips for auto trans hoses are supplied. Everything else you swap off the old radiator. The problem is fatigue. The inlet becomes soft and eventually breaks off. The bleed hose on the front does the same.
Without going into detail if you remove, air intake, fan unit and disconnect aircon condensor, auto trans hoses, the radiator lifts out. The whole job will take a novice around 5 hours. 3 out, 2 in. Install surprisingly is faster than removal because you will know what you are doing.
Bank on radiators and water pumps giving up about 100,000kms nowadays.

Just a comment on the above posts. You don't want to be gluing up an old radiator. If the inlet is stuffed guaranteed other plastic parts are about to fail also. It's likely to fail again.
 

RiCeY

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5 hours? You don't need to remove or disconnect the condenser either.

Pretty easy to do the R+R in under an hour, there's nothing to it.
 

Joelene

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5 hours? You don't need to remove or disconnect the condenser either.

Pretty easy to do the R+R in under an hour, there's nothing to it.

You need to unbolt (disconnect the condensor from the radiator as they are attached)......I didn't say remove it or disconnect aircon hoses.
My mate who is service manager at a Holden Dealer said it 2 to 2.5 hours with all their equipment handy, knowing how all the clamps come off the radiator, use a hoist, etc.

To get to the auto transmission cooling lines the bottom cover has to come off. 10 minutes.
Jack the car up and put on stands. 10 minutes.
Drain coolant 5 mins.
Disconnect air intake, air hose, air system monitor. 10 minutes.
Remove top hose, bleed hose, filler hose. 5 mins
Unclip fan unit, electrical connector, unclip auto transmission hoses. Lift out.10 mins.
Unclip and cap off auto transmission lines. 10 mins.
Disconnect bottom radiator hose, lift radiator out 5 mins.
Total remove......65 mins

Reinstall same time 65 mins.

Refill coolant, run up to temperature 20 mins.

Around 160 mins if you know what you are doing without a hoist and all the Holden equipment..... around 3 hours.....

If you have never done it before it will take longer.

And, as an Electrical Fitter and Mechanic A Grade, (double trade), I am about twice as pedantic, particular and safety concious as a motormechanic hence it takes longer because it's mine and it gets done properly.......... :)
 

RiCeY

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You quote times like a panel repair shop lol.

Trans lines can be connected from the top very easily, no need to remove under tray.

It's a rad swap, there's nothing to be pedantic about really as everything is very straight forward.
 

cruelass

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I had this happen and just got a new hose and a proper clamp. Tightened the **** out of the clamp onto the top pipe after cleaning the scale off. Still holding on but will eventually get around to it.
 

Joelene

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You quote times like a panel repair shop lol.

Trans lines can be connected from the top very easily, no need to remove under tray.

It's a rad swap, there's nothing to be pedantic about really as everything is very straight forward.

If you have done them before I agree it would be a relatively straight forward change. Yeah I don't like hanging upside down trying to flick circlips off transmission lines. Removing the bottom cover made it easier. Also you can capture the auto trans fluid inside of it pissing all over the dust cover. You also get to find those scrivets, sockets and other crap that has fallen below in the past......
 

Joelene

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I had this happen and just got a new hose and a proper clamp. Tightened the **** out of the clamp onto the top pipe after cleaning the scale off. Still holding on but will eventually get around to it.

I did the same for a day or two until my Holden Service Manager friend said guarantreed it will blow off again, especially during summer.

The pipe is also soft due to fatigue and particularly that smaller pipe at the front. It's under pressure and it will break too if not next week since your main inlet broke.

I picked my genuine radiator up from Holden last week for $400 plus tax. List is $500..........

The circlips for the transmission hoses come with the new radiator. Everything else you swap over from the old.

If you haven't done a water pump they go hand in hand with the radiator. Mine went at 75K. But easy to replace.
 

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I had this happen and just got a new hose and a proper clamp. Tightened the **** out of the clamp onto the top pipe after cleaning the scale off. Still holding on but will eventually get around to it.

Overtightening clamps on plastic pipes is what causes them to crack and break away as well as them going brittle over time.
 

cruelass

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I just tightened the worm drive clamp up onto a fresh section of pipe near the tank.I figured the radiator is already had it so why not. I know its not a long term fix but its held on ok (should really get another on soon). Someone handy with lathe could turn up a round section of alloy with a flare at one end and fit that inside the broken section and rivet or attach it to the the outlet as theres nothing wrong with the rest of the radiator.
 
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