2010 VE Vibration

[VE10]

Hey guys,

Look this one is hard to explain but im gonna do my best.
I brought a used 2010 Omega 3.0 SIDI VE from a holden dealer with 120,000k on the clock, this being my first decent car i was excited and signed the dotted lines and drove off. Although i did take it for a test drive i never did a high speed test ie, freeway.
Anyways I've noticed the faster i go the more pronounce this vibration seems and when i'm steering right it gets worse, i can feel it through my left foot while its resting and anyone in the car can hear it.
Now I've taken it to my dealership, first time i asked to to balance wheels, they didn't test it, second time the test driver reported no noise so i told him to go freeways they came back stating its tyre noise, which i find hard to believe as it has brand new Sumitomos on it that came with the car.

I'm thinking about to taking it to a trusted mechanic i know but the car is still under warranty and im not liking the service i've been getting from my dealership on this and other issues i've had.

Any idea?

Cheers,
VE.

 

[NZ-GTR]

Can be lots of things mate.

Some that I know to check are;

- are all the tyres the same? I.e. brand and size.
- Is tyre inflation even and firm enough? (dealers will often run tyre pressures low so that the car feels softer. Problem is that you can get the tyre scalping out on the edges)
- rub your hand over the tyres and check for uneven wear,
- rub your hand over the tyres and check for bumps on the inner part of the tyre that you cant see from looking.
- A rim could be "out of round" meaning that it is elliptical. Can happen if a gutter has been hit too hard or rim is too worn.
- Check wheel nuts are tight. (loose wheel nuts will vibrate going straight and turning one direction and then go quiet turning the other direction)
- Worn bearing - wobble the car whilst driving left to right. Worn bearings will go quiet momentarily when the weight of the vehicle closes that bearing. Can also sound like a 747 in the car. Also can start quiet and get noisier as the bearing heats up.
- Worn strut caps, look at the top of the strut towers and see if there is a gap between the tower cap and the vehicle.
- wheel alignment.

That's all I can think of right now, pretty sure others will have a mass of ideas that I missed.

 

[cewing]

Engine mounts? When I had a vy the steering and accelerator pedal vibrated the faster I revved, engine mounts fixed that.

 

[SSV Boy]

Sounds like a wheel bearing as the tyres are brand new and have had a balance, but i could be wrong. Jack the front of the car up on each side and grab one of the tyres and move it in and out and see if you can feel any play or a clicking noise, if so the bearing either needs replacement or hopefully just tightening. if only one is gone I would replace both sides as there not that expensive.

 

[VE10]

Cheers for the replies, once the weather cools down here in melb i'll jack it up and check some things out.

 

[lease1]

PIC4989: Drive Line Boom Noise And/Or Vibration - (Oct 2, 2008)

Subject: Drive Line Boom Noise and/or Vibration

Models: 2008-2009 Pontiac G8
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The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern:
There may be a either a boom noise or vibration and in some cases both a noise & vibration detected in a very few 2008 & 2009 G8's. This condition may be detected by customers at speeds of 55-65 MPH on either 08 or 09 G8's. The noise could be described as a low frequency boom or moan noise (not a whine) coming through the body. The vibration is generally felt in the seat or the floor pan. The condition could be caused by either a misaligned center support bearing assembly or the prop shaft mounting to the differential yoke.

Recommendation/Instructions:
The prop shaft center support mount is slotted left to right and can be adjusted by loosening the bolts which are accessible through holes in the metal shield between the prop shaft & the floor sheet metal. After loosening the center support bolts you can use a pry bar between the prop shaft & floor to adjust the center support. If the alignment isn't correct the prop shaft will usually "snap over" into proper location with very little input.

If the condition is both noise & vibration felt through the floor, re-indexing the prop shaft to the differential yoke may have to be performed:

Mark the relative alignment of the propshaft, rubber coupling, and differential in the original position.
Number the nut and bolt pairs and their hole in the rubber coupling which join the rubber coupling to the differential (silver) and the nut and bolts which join the propshaft to the rubber coupling (black).
Remove rubber coupling from differential and propshaft, ensure the nut and bolt pairs are kept together.
Re-assemble indexing the rubber coupling and silver bolts clockwise (relative to differential), and the propshaft and black bolts counter clockwise (relative to differential).
Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.