central locking installation

[85berlina]

Oh, now I understand why you keep asking. Thats fine.

The 12v going to the ACC wire and the imobilisor relays MUST NOT fall to zero when cranking. If it falls to zero, it menas the relay will turn off when you crank and immobilse the engine again.

About your main 12v wire that you installed coming through the fire wall, that is exactly what I did and it will do the job fine just as long as the wire is large enough to take the devices. I have used 25 amp rated cable which is a 12 gauge cable. It is about 5-6mm diameter across the copper part. This is probably a bit overkill and I used it because I had some off cuts laying around so the chances are, you are fine. If you are using thin hookup wire, such as 1-2mm cable, it will be too thin.

The starter motor solonoid gets 12v of power only when the engine is cranked, so I would suggest not tapping into this. You should use one that goes to 12v when the ignition is turned on and when the engine cranks. You are talking about tapping into this and connecting the ACC wire, right?
You should try and tap into power rails inside the vehicle. You will probably need the battery connected to find one though. This makes it harder for thieves to pinch your ride, remembering that commodores are easy as to pinch.



Pin 30 on the fuel pump relay should probably be connected to a source that goes 12v when the ignition is on, it also can't drop to zero when the engine cranks.
Once again, just remeber that pin 86 on the immobilisor relay can't fall to zero volts when the engine cranks because it will immobilise the engine when you crank.
Other than that, your pin outs look fine.

 

[bigg_vin]

thank you so much.....

 

[bigg_vin]

urgent help by anyone who knows please!!!

i connected up the battery for the first time to find the ignition 12v source.....

the negative door trigger wire at the alarm control module started melting....

it started melting at the point where the bonnet pin and door triggers were connected, i dont think its the bonnet pin, so where am i meant to connect up to the door trigger? is it the wire going to the trigger, or the earth point of the trigger?

thanks

 

[yobbo88]

if a cable melts then its too thin for whats flowing along it isnt it? thats my input to see if i can help quicklyish

 

[bigg_vin]

its all good

found the problem, my trunk trigger wire was wired to the wrong thing..... i had it to the orange wire behind the light... so the alarm module was getting constant power from this source.....

thanks again

 

[bigg_vin]

i finally found an ignition 12v source.... it drops to around 10v whilst cranking, this is ok yeah?

thanks

 

[bigg_vin]

ok, all hooked up and seems to be running ok so far....
but two questions.

1) the doors dont unlock and lock when pressing the remote, but they do when using the key, any sugestions?

2) do i need to run power to the bonnet pin?

thanks

 

[85berlina]

Voltage on the wire dropping to around 10v or so is fine.

You don't need to run power to the bonnet pin, just the wire that you ran to the door switches. This is because the bonnet pin functions the same as the door switches.


Is your central locking functioning fine with a key.

 

[bigg_vin]

yeah central locking is fine with the key and by hand (if i lift one of the masters up, then the rest lift up)

but it just wont work with the remote. i checked the wires going to the central locking module from the alarm, and they seem fine. i used the white, and the white/black wires....

my bonnet pin does not work.....

 

[bigg_vin]

but dont the door switches have power going to them? and thus when the door is opened, the switch completes the circuit and turns the interior light on?