Cooling concern after water pump replacement

[ajobbins]

A couple of weeks ago my '06 Omega went into the stop with a coolant leak at the water pump. Garage replaced the pump and did a cooling system flush at the same time at my request.

Ever since I have got it back, the temperature gauge on the car is showing normal most of the time (which is typically between 96-99 degrees), but I have seen it spike upwards of 110 degrees a couple of times since it came back. It's never been that high before.

I've also noticed that there is visible heat rising out of the front, rear and drivers side of the car that I don't think happened before. Even on cooler days/nights, you can see the heat 'waves' in the field of view outside the car. I'm also hearing the radiator fans kick in more than ever before, even at sub 100 degrees - but not always.

I called the mechanic and suggested maybe the system had some air in it after the pump replacement and coolant flush and had a hot spot, but he didn't sound convinced. I don't want to end up with a warped head or anything, but at the same time the car is showing 'normal' temp readings and it's 'overheating'.

Anyone have any thoughts? I can take it back to the shop and get them to check it, but I am not confident they will get it right.

 

[Benboy]

You could start by simply bleeding the cooling system. It helps if you can raise the front of the car (ramps or sloping driveway etc).

 

[ajobbins]

You could start by simply bleeding the cooling system. It helps if you can raise the front of the car (ramps or sloping driveway etc).

Those are great instructions, thanks! Will give that a go before I take it back to the garage.

 

[Sean880]

You could start by simply bleeding the cooling system. It helps if you can raise the front of the car (ramps or sloping driveway etc).

Very useful diagrams and instructions.

However I would query raising the front of the car as you suggested. The reason you would not do this is because you do NOT want the top section of the radiator, which must be full and air free to be above the level of the coolant fill point. On level ground the coolant fill point is slightly higher which is why you fill until the fluid runs out of the radiator bleed hole , with the last of the air in that area, and close the bleed screw. You then finish topping up from the coolant filler point before going on to coolant reservoir to add fluid to the correct level.

 

[ajobbins]

I cannot for the life of me find this bleed screw in the diagram. There are fan housings and plastic everywhere on the top right hand by the radiator. Do I have to remove something to get to it?

 

[Micaxe]

That diagram is for an VZ Alloytech 3.6, ( I had one with some overheating issues, was getting an airlock in system. bottom hose was cool & water spewing out of expansion tank)
I've just checked mine, I don't have bleed screw either ( VE2 SV6)

 

[Smashfist]

They're a horrible turd to bleed correctly. Get an old cap, cut a hole in it and sikaflex an empty soft drink bottle to it with the bottom cut off (so it's like a big reservoir attached to the cap). Fill it 2/3 and let it idle for a while but don't let it get over 90ish degrees as it will start churning and spewing. You want the thermostat to open to bleed airlocks out but not too hot.

 

[maxthedralf]

isent the old way to get airlocks out of the cooling line just open the radiator cap when its cold and have it running for 20 min. it will burp and burble if there are any airlocks in it and just top it up if needed.