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Cracked Head - does this sound right?

Gambor

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Cracked Head - Does this sound right?

I was gifted a 1996 Holden Commodore VS V6 Equippe 18 months ago by my employer (he was getting a new car). It currently has 290,000km on the clock.

This is for use as a family car (three kids). I drive very conservatively at all times, putting minimum stress (as far as I am concerned) on the car - it has to last as we are a single income family. Daily work/school roundtrip is 80km or so.

Over the last four months we have had many issues with it. Over three seperate incidents, the serpentine belt has failed twice, the pulley tensioner (?), all pulleys, harmonic balancer, power steering pump, some other pulley mechanism (I forget) have all failed and been replaced with new parts.

Two weeks ago while driving down the freeway, I pulled over when the heat gauge moved to 5/10 bars (instead of the usual 3/10). As I did, I heard a "thwack!" and steam poured out. RACQ towed me to a different mechanic than my usual, who diagnosed a failed heater/water tap (vacuum pump) and replaced it.

From that point on, the car started to idle rough for 5-20 seconds on cold start - ran smooth after that however.

I took the car that same day to my usual mechanic, who said the repair was OK, oil/coolant were OK but he topped them to full anyway. Booked for a service in a weeks time.

It never made that week. Five days later, the heat gauge crept to 6/10 bars. I pulled over, let it rest then drove off with the aircon on (to force the radiator fan to go). Over 20 minutes, it ctept to 7/10 bars. At that point I pulled over and got towed home by RACQ.

Having had a blown head gasket previously in another car, I checked the oil for milky residue at home - none. I checked the coolant for signs of discoloration, none I could see.


I took it to my regular mechanic again, who tells me he did a compression test - bubbles in the coolant, he says the engine has a cracked head - and he recommends scrapping the car and getting another one. Or getting a second hand engine replacement (which is the path we have opted for) but the cost for this is pretty excessive.

I don't understand how the engine of our car has a cracked head - I never let the heat gauge climb all the way up to full, I understand its an all cast iron block and head, and apart from the brief rough idle on cold start and the heat creep it runs fairly smoothly.

I generally think the mechanic I am dealing with is fairly honest, but this is alot of money (already spent, and to be spent) Does the diagnostic (and recommendations) I am getting here sound right?
 

GTS69

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mate its pretty common for these to do there heads the engines really nearing the end with that many Km and you never know what had happened to the car before you could have been cooked a few times but having said that you never know it could have just blown the gasket you wont know till the heads are removed but with that many km your far better off just throwing a low km engine and box in it have a look around you should be able to find one for around $400-$800 depending were you go but just make sure the km are legit what have you been quoted to do the engine swap ??
 

James39

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Meh, mine has many k's on it. low or high k's means nothing.
Was the themostat checked? It may not be working causeing it to stay closed.

Maybe remove it then see if it still overheats.
Bubbles in the cooling system could mean anything, even as simple as a blown inlet manfold gasket.
 

DevilDRake

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If it's damaged, get a new one (well 2nd hand) off ebay for like $350. Take you a day to swap over..

Saves you alot of problems.
 

GTS69

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km means plenty at 290000km the rings would be screwed and many other things will be not to far away yes these engines can do more than that but the fact is thats alot of km mine around that was starting to use a litre of oil a month if you can find something in the sub 200000km range go for that
 

Gambor

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The mechanic has quoted me $1100-1200 for the second-hand engine replacement (engine cost is $690, the rest is labour)

The second hand engine has 190,000km on the clock. But I have no idea what its history is (and this is a risk isn't it? Never know what the replacement engine went through)

We are going ahead with this replacement (and hope nothing major goes wrong afterwards) but I am at a loss how the original engine got to such a state when I handled it with care when driving (and my boss used it primarly for long distance drives across country on business - he is not an aggressive or heavy-footed driver either)

If what I am understanding is right, the mechanic cannot absolutely know the head is cracked unless he opens the head (and it could be something else, like an inlet manifold). Should I be asking him about this?

EDIT: I forgot to add, the mechanic claims the thermostat is working perfectly, he plans to replace it anyway.
 

GTS69

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if the $690 is engine only id say thats a bit high and id be looking to do a engine/gearbox swap even with a gearbox with 190000km thats not a flash price.
How the car is driven isnt always the cause of issues its mainly how it was maintained, you never know if on one of his long trips maybe the fan died or a hole in a pipe or radiator and he could have cooked it before realising you never know sadly but truth of the matter is 290000km is alot and things will start to die.
And yes you read right you cant tell its a cracked head without removing it, there is a chance that its a blown head gasket id say more so that than a cracked head it wont be the inlet manifold gasket.
But having said that the price most mechanics charge to do head gaskets your still better off doing a engine swap if it was the gasket not only that but you will get more life out of a new engine with lower kms.
Also do you get the old engine or is he keeping it ? not worth heaps but you could pull it appart and sell bits off it or sell it complete as a suit rebuild and make a few bucks back
 

BowTie

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I just got an 03 vy eco with 109k on it for $750 with a 3mth warranty from wollongong auto wreckers.
 

Chappo_1

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Hi Gambor, my car, early this year, was heating up how you describe. I replaced the thermostat, and the radiator cap, and it has been fine ever since.

I think the thermostat was sticking, because it would be OK one day, and over heat the next.
I boiled it, and the new one I was putting in, on the stove, to see the difference. The one I replaced did not seem to open as far, and it closed almost immediately when I took it off the boil. The new one closed slowly.

I think once pressure builds up in the cooling system, the radiator cap is supposed to open the over flow
outlet. The spring loaded part of the cap pushes up to expose the over flow outlet - not 100% sure on this part, someone on here will correct me if I am wrong.

A couple of cheap things to try.
Good luck mate.
 
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