[VL] EASY $30 DIY Cold Air Induction!

[`redoctober]

say it was a heavily raining day - what implications are there having the CAI pipe at the front of the car etc and water getting into the system?

If water can defy gravity then surely a rainy day would have an impact :whistling

 

[greenfoam]

That's what I'm saying though, you changed two things at the same time. Just about evey person who does some sort of CAI never does that mod alone. It's hard to say which mod did what. You'd be surprised at how much an exhaust can change the way a car accelerates.

And a Gtech is just simulation, not a real life dyno comparison. A bit like climate change.....lol

Oh, and can you get back to me about the memcal? I have one here ready to post.

I missed this before but back to back power runs on a gtech are deadly accurate (within a couple hp if you run in 2nd gear without shifting). I can pick up the difference in power just going 1 degree extra on the timing

 

[preston_e]

good stuff.. you know of any pros. of having a cone shape on the end.. like this.. excuse the crappy picture lol

<a href="http://s911.photobucket.com/albums/ac317/epreston90/?action=view&current=cai.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac317/epreston90/cai.jpg" border="0" alt="Cai"></a>

 

[Immortality]

lol, i missed this thread. the home made CAI is the winner in my book. had nothing but good results with it.

never had any issue with water and my CAI. had it on the car a few years now and the engine still lives so unless you actually get into a deep puddle that can cover the CAI inlet i think you'll be fine.

I missed this before but back to back power runs on a gtech are deadly accurate (within a couple hp if you run in 2nd gear without shifting). I can pick up the difference in power just going 1 degree extra on the timing

exactly mate. generally when i quote power figures i take the average over a couple runs. certainly not the best numbers. when doing before/after comparisons i base my numbers on the highest before reading to the lowest after reading which actually gives the lowest actual increase so chances are the actual gain realises was better then what i quote.

it works out that i've gained about 20rwkw with all my mods together. not a bad gain on a V6

 

[JST-23Z]

good stuff.. you know of any pros. of having a cone shape on the end.. like this.. excuse the crappy picture lol

<a href="http://s911.photobucket.com/albums/ac317/epreston90/?action=view&current=cai.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac317/epreston90/cai.jpg" border="0" alt="Cai"></a>

yeah with a flaired end like that you will get better flow.... (thats what i have now)
after doing some research in performance books and websites the best flair to have is a 30degree flair

 

[Mayhem05]

And even better if wraped with a heat reflective adhesive tape like used on air cond ducts

 

[Nackerz]

Cold air intake is a basic way to gain a little bit more power and efficiency.
The idea is simple, the colder the air into the engine the better because the colder the air the more dense it is. (Unlike the hot air in the engine bay)

All the things you will need you can get from Bunnings or most hardware store

I bought:

1. A 90mm stormwater pipe that was 90mm diameter - $5.30
2. 2 90mm stormwater "Female and Female" 45deg bends - $1.51 each
3. silicon (Bond & Seal) - $5.74
4. 3/16 washers (50 pack) - $3.13
5. 3/16 nut and bolts (20 pack) $3.30
6. 90mm hanging bracket (get 2 in a pack but i used only 1) - $8.46
7. 90-105mm steel hose clamp - $4.46

Total $33.41

You will also need some assorted hand tools.
Read through to find out.

Step 1.
I took the top half of the air box off and left the bottom, then marked where I was going to drill through the hole already in the bottom of the box which is right above the drain hole in the guard... So I could drill through it without it pushing through I screwed some self drilling screws through the tabs.

Step 2.
Then I drilled through the tab on the mark that I put there before (this will act as a guide for the whole saw)
Then I refitted the air box.

Step 3.
With an 89mm Hole saw cut through the bottom of the air box. The 90mm pipe will be a tight fit so you will probly have to file some off around the edges for a nice tight fit

After filed it’s an air-tight fit

Step 4.
Now using a 103mm Hole saw cut through the guard using the pilot hole you drilled before (Make sure you use a good quality hole saw or you will have a lot of trouble and chew the teeth off the saw)
With a 103mm hole it allows for movement without hitting or vibrating on the body of the car.

Step 5.
Dummy up the pipes to how you want. I had three lengths,
They were aprox:300mm
150mm
70mm

The 300mm pipe goes from the guard to the first 45deg bend then the 70mm one goes between that and the second 45deg bend and finally the 150mm pipe goes up into the air box

Step 6. When your happy with the way your pipes are angled and setup. Glue them together and work out a suitable place to mount the bracket, and twist or bend to suit.

Step 7.
Now with the box, make to right angle brackets tho support the pipe inside the box… rivet one side to the bottom of the box. At the same time you car cut a piece of metal to fill in the original air duct hole. Rivet that over the hole and put silicon around the edges (if you do it on the inside of the box you can paint the outside, cause the paint will come off the silicon.

Step 8.
To keep it less obvious paint it black. (I also think it looks better)

Step 9.
After its all dry, I put a bit of flyscreen over the end to prevent big things like bugs and rocks getting in. then you can bolt it all up and make sure its all secure.

Step 10.
Put the rest of the air duct back on, then drive and enjoy… for best results use a high flow air filter (stock VLs use A360 filters)

If you need any help or better pics pm me

heres a link to cai on wikipedia to tell you about the advantages


NOTE:
I’m not held responsible for any of this that gets put into your car… it is your choice to make this system and your problem if you get defected/booked

Also for any injury you sustain or damage done to your car while fitting/fitted this to your car!

AND NOW YOUR CAR WILL NOT PASS A ROADWORTHY.....end of story piece out

 

[JST-23Z]

AND NOW YOUR CAR WILL NOT PASS A ROADWORTHY.....end of story piece out

you silly fool! read the rta website or the rta book... its ok to put a hole here as its not a structual part of the car... get ya **** straight

 

[Nackerz]

yeah and my mechanic has told me that it will not pass a roadworthy

oh i just seen that your in sydney....well im in vic and it wont pass a roadworthy down here mate

 

[JST-23Z]

ok well im from nsw and a mechanic