Elimanating Brake Shudder

[vnv8driver]

simple you have warped brake rotors!!! as mentioned above but didnt see a reason to why its the rotors?

 

[Raging Bull]

Yeah mine were shuddering pretty bad so I went in and asked to have them machined, now I was more than happy to buy new ones if needed be but they didn't say anything and told me the shuddering would be gone after the machining. It lasted maybe 2 days and the shudder was back, steering shacking etc, what a waste of money. So yeah don't get them machined buy new ones.

 

[BANKS]

Yeah mine were shuddering pretty bad so I went in and asked to have them machined, now I was more than happy to buy new ones if needed be but they didn't say anything and told me the shuddering would be gone after the machining. It lasted maybe 2 days and the shudder was back, steering shacking etc, what a waste of money. So yeah don't get them machined buy new ones.

Yeah machining them is only a quick fix and to be honest a complete waste of money. The reason for the discs to warp is that there is too much heat build up in the rotors from either a full emergency stop or heavy continuous braking. Because of the heat the disc warps under the extreme pressure from the brake pads, then when it cools it sets in that position. The cause of the issue, heat, goes all the way threw the rotor so machining only gets rid of the superficial damage. The real damage is inside the rotor core where the heat has permanently warped the metal. When the rotors get hot again, they warp back to what they were previously before they were machined.

Only real fix, new rotors.

 

[Full Spectrum]

You got to be careful getting water into them when hot,
I paid good money out for VP's front rotors, Kangaroo paws slotted!. Performance Bendix pads, Bloody great stoppers..
But after heading into car washes today I'm guessing i was once washing the car and i must have got to much water on hot rotors, Then taking off needing to get some temp back into them just slightly tapping the brake till i had brakes was enough maybe to warp them out.

 

[Tom_1569]

Thankyou for all your help, it will be new rotors and pads just to be 100%, not sure if its going to be all round or just fronts, and not sure on standard or slotted, but they will be DBA no matter what. It will depend what my mate thinks on getting slotted caus im getting him to get them trade for me.

The bedding in thing, i can say may be a problem after they were machined, as mum never does this, she had to take my car for a roadworthy after rebuilding the front end, i told her a million times, even left notes on the steering wheel. I get back from holidays and ask her if she bed the brakes in, shes like no you never told me to :bang: I will be bedding these in for her, anyone have any good tips for bedding in, just lots of light braking without coming to a complete stop?

Raging Bull - Thats what the mechanic told her, he said it was not worth replacing them as it costs more and isnt necasary, he then charger her 45 bux a rotor for machining, we all tried to tell her that it wasnt worth it but she believed the "honest" mechanic. Been trying to talk her into letting me service it and every 5 thousand with proper stuff instead of this idiot who doesnt change filters till every 30 thousand, im slowly getting through haha.

 

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

Now the real reason.

On the VT model it was actually worse than any other. The main reason it happens is incorrect tightening and torquing of the wheel nuts.

After machining or replacing rotors, the wheel nuts need to be done up in a star pattern and torqued to 100-125 Nm, if you don't it almost always caused variable disc thickness that gets worse as time goes on. This will make the steering wheel vibrate and the brake pedal pulsate when braking.

Another less common cause is too much lateral play in the wheel bearing. To check this you need a dial gauge.

As mentioned above, I do RDA slotted rotors and have never had a problem with them if the correct torquing procedure is followed.

 

[88GreenVN]

Now the real reason.

On the VT model it was actually worse than any other. The main reason it happens is incorrect tightening and torquing of the wheel nuts.

After machining or replacing rotors, the wheel nuts need to be done up in a star pattern and torqued to 100-125 Nm, if you don't it almost always caused variable disc thickness that gets worse as time goes on. This will make the steering wheel vibrate and the brake pedal pulsate when braking.

Another less common cause is too much lateral play in the wheel bearing. To check this you need a dial gauge.

As mentioned above, I do RDA slotted rotors and have never had a problem with them if the correct torquing procedure is followed.

There you go - doing the wheel nuts up wrong! Didn't give that a thought as I have only ever done them up in a star patten. But I guess some poeple dont know AND we can all over tighten wheel nuts:whistling

 

[Tom_1569]

Now the real reason.

On the VT model it was actually worse than any other. The main reason it happens is incorrect tightening and torquing of the wheel nuts.

After machining or replacing rotors, the wheel nuts need to be done up in a star pattern and torqued to 100-125 Nm, if you don't it almost always caused variable disc thickness that gets worse as time goes on. This will make the steering wheel vibrate and the brake pedal pulsate when braking.

Another less common cause is too much lateral play in the wheel bearing. To check this you need a dial gauge.

As mentioned above, I do RDA slotted rotors and have never had a problem with them if the correct torquing procedure is followed.

I was going to torque them down, i like torqueing **** down, makes me feel safer and gives the torque wrench a good work out, but didnt think this could affect the shudder but does make sense, especially caus the mechanic always uses the rattle gun for wheel nuts everytime.
Do you still sell the DBA slotted, if so how much would we be looking at roughly?

 

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

DBA's are around the $250 mark a pair I think.

 

[Cheap6]

This is the source for my earlier post:

StopTech : Balanced Brake Upgrades

It's borne out by personal experience. I have, out of ignorance before reading that, destroyed discs in less than 10 mins. of driving.

There's bedding advice also.