Error Code 75

[ICUBYE]

Im pretty sure my alternator is shagged. my batery light came on (has been going on and of for a few days). yesterday while stuck in traffic it came on again and my speakers cut out and only the sub was going so i turned off the stereo. Then my ABS Off light and Engine warning light came on, within a minute or two the rest of the lights were showing up on my dash and they all started flashing. i pulled over and my engine was running really really rough. I got it towed home ($106 for 10 Kms) i have fully charged my battery and the car now starts but i have the Engine warning light on my dash showing and i checked the code and its Code 75 - System Voltage Too Low - Auto Transmission Only.

Does till look and sound like a shagged alternator?

I need a VS V8 Alternator ASAP.

Does anyone have any info 3rd party alternators? something that puts out more amps than standard?

The original is a BXH-1231 and puts out 85A.
Will the Police model fit a stock V8??? (Model BXH-1250 120A)???

 

[hako]

Its probably just worn brushes on the alternator which will cost less than $50 and easy to fit. Thats the cheap fix. The next ones up are wreckers at about $80+ and then new at $200+. Do a search on on Google for "V8 commodore alternators"...you will turn up plenty.
But if you want to do it yourself, replacing the brushes will put your current alternator back to almost good as new.

 

[ICUBYE]

Its probably just worn brushes on the alternator which will cost less than $50 and easy to fit. Thats the cheap fix. The next ones up are wreckers at about $80+ and then new at $200+. Do a search on on Google for "V8 commodore alternators"...you will turn up plenty.
But if you want to do it yourself, replacing the brushes will put your current alternator back to almost good as new.

DO you know how much this would cost to have done? and maybe re wind (i think thats the term) it so it puts out more amps?

I have had a price on the BXH-1231 standard V8 85A Alt $144, im getting a price on the BXH-1250 tomorrow, hopefully it is not much more. Im guessing the only different is the ammount of turns in the copper wire to produce more Amps. I cant find actually specs on these models.

 

[kopper69]

The number of turns will relate to voltage only. The higher the number of turns, the slower it needs to turn to produce the same voltage. A THICKER diameter wire will allow more current.

 

[97 SEN]

i've had the alternator in my v8 commodrre go, and i had none of the warnings and error that you had. If you put a fully charged battery in, when the alternator isn't working at all, it should run fine until it drains the battery, with out the engine light.

Maybe double check this with some one who knows more then i do but i'ld be concerned about the engine light being on.

All i had to do with mine was replace the brushes to fix it.

 

[ICUBYE]

hmmmm, so can anyone confirm the error code 75??? does it sound like its alternator related?

 

[kopper69]

If you have a multimeter you can check your alternator really easily. If you dont have one, you can grab one from dick smith for $16 that will do everything you need.

 

[evil_monkey]

just replace your car with a ford fairlane.

 

[ICUBYE]

If you have a multimeter you can check your alternator really easily. If you dont have one, you can grab one from dick smith for $16 that will do everything you need.

how exactly do i test it? i have a multimeter. like from what point to what point?

 

[kopper69]

Very good mate. OK. This is a simple test, but most times you can quickly check if your alternator is charging correctly or not. It can also give you a good idea of the condition of your battery. Although any battery over 2 years I would be replacing.

Now, you simply need to put the red positive test lead on the positive terminal of the battery and the black negative test lead on the black negative terminal of the battery. Switch the multimeter to read DC VOLTS or DC= (it will look like an equals sign, only the bottom line will likely be dotted). Try and poke the probes in a gap between the terminal and the connector. Make sure its a nice tight fit.

With the car turned off, you should be sitting at something like 12.6volts. Sit the meter on the side of the car, wind down the window and stand in a spot where you can watch the meter and reach in the car to start the ignition.

When you turn the key, just before you start it, you should hear the fuel pump prime, and the voltage will drop to like 12.3ish volts. Now start the car. This takes a huge amount of power, and will drop the voltage to maybe 10ish volts. Once the car is started, the alternator should be doing its job of recharging the battery. To do this, it puts out a voltage of about 13.8-14.2 volts, which you should see come up on the meter.

If your alternator isnt working, the voltage wont jump back up, and will continue to sit at 10-12 volts. Maybe even lower. Just one quick check tho, before you get the alternator reconditioned, have you seen this....

http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/showthread.php?t=5910

its on the front page. Just make sure the large red wire on the back of the alternator is nice and tight. And make sure the battery connectors on the battery terminal are clean and really tight.

Good luck, let us know how you go.