Fuel Filter, Pump, CAS

[Shane1989]

How often are you supposed to change your fuel filter if you run premium fuel with octane booster every two months? Also, is there anyway to replace the internal fuel pump??? If not then how much are they? The guy that owned my car before me. Never serviced the poor girl. I did an oil change the day I bought it, and noticed it was blacker then my tires. It had no coolant in it. The front pads were down to metal. The paint was faded so bad that I couldent tell if it was supposed to be red or puposfully faded from the factory. I honestly don't know how someone could ever let there car get that bad. You know the worst parts of it all though? He worked for Peter Kittle Service Centre. He has a job. When I bought the car I did'nt have a job and had next to no money. I paid $3,000 for it, because it was mechanically sound for the most part and had a $2,000 clarion sound system with a new exhaust and 4 new tires. I have babied that car and tried to service it as best I can. People take cars for granted way to often... Also, I have replaced my CAS and I took it out of an automatic VL... Would that make any kind of difference. If not then why did I have a noticeable DROP in seat of the pants power??????? It used to lurch back and forth like it was struggling for fuel ( same thing it did when it got to 1/4 tank ) now its doing it again the next day after i replaced the CAS. A little help would not go astray here fellas.
Cheers
Shane-O:thumbsup:

 

[snake_VL]

first off you should change the fuel filter about once a year or 40 000k's. i left mine for a year and it started to play up cos it was getting clogged

internal fuel pumps can be changed and cost about $100. get a workshop manual and it will describe how. should take about an hour and is pretty easy. make sure you get a new gasket from holden though or you may have fuel leaks afterwards.

you should really flush the cooling system and put some coolant in or you may end up with a blown head gasket or cracked head. make sure you know to bleed it properly too.

the cas in auto and manual are the same. as for the drop in power maybe you put the dizzy in slightly wrong like a tooth or 2 out and it has retarded the ignition timing.

as for the lurching it may be the afm? not sure though you need to give more info on when it happens etc.

hope i've helped

 

[harry3]

internal fuel pumps come in several brands, avoid one with a long filter bag that goes off to one side as this may hit the side of the swirl pot, stopping the pump from sitting down in it
this causes loud gurgling noises and the car runs out of petrol too soon

 

[snake_VL]

i think thats what happened to my wife's. it ran out of fuel on the way to the servo after changing it. if it gets to the red line on the guage it starts to run like **** then stops a few k's later. but mine will go a lot further, don't know how far though cos i've never run it dry

 

[harry3]

YOU MIGHT REMOVE THE PUMP AND TURN THE FILTER BAG 180 DEGREES AROUND THEN REPLACE, THAT FIXED MINE
its not possible to visualise how the pump will be sitting down in the swirlpot as you cant see anything

 

[Shane1989]

first off you should change the fuel filter about once a year or 40 000k's. i left mine for a year and it started to play up cos it was getting clogged

internal fuel pumps can be changed and cost about $100. get a workshop manual and it will describe how. should take about an hour and is pretty easy. make sure you get a new gasket from holden though or you may have fuel leaks afterwards.

you should really flush the cooling system and put some coolant in or you may end up with a blown head gasket or cracked head. make sure you know to bleed it properly too.

the cas in auto and manual are the same. as for the drop in power maybe you put the dizzy in slightly wrong like a tooth or 2 out and it has retarded the ignition timing.

as for the lurching it may be the afm? not sure though you need to give more info on when it happens etc.

hope i've helped

Na, I did'nt take out the dizzy. I took the cap off then the rotor arm then the brass plate then took off the brass button then the CAS and disk. Replaced it then it ran fine like that for the rest of the day. The next day it started to act up again. Thats why I think it is my fuel filter because I can turn the car on and hear the pumps working and then I can hear the fuel relay click. Then it will start fine. I flushed the system when I did my water pump about 2 months back. She got fresh coolant in it AT ALL TIMES since I have owned it. Especially in Alice Springs... I don't think its the AFM cause I can have it plugged in then start the car, it starts fine. When I shut if off and unplug the sensor then try to start it, it doesnt even run, it will start but not run. Its wierd though, cause it used to do it at random times when i drove it. It would only do it once or twice at random times then it wouldent do it at all the rest of the time I was driving. It runs great when I baby the acelerator and don't give it any. But when I got to half throttle it jumps violently. When I find my keys again, I lost them last night LMAO!!!, I am going to do a pressure test on the fuel rail pintle.

 

[Shane1989]

On top of that if it is my fuel filter than that would explain the power loss as well. Because it would be restricting my fuel flow and pressure and that would mean less fuel for the engine to burn and inturn lower the power right?

 

[mag]

On top of that if it is my fuel filter than that would explain the power loss as well. Because it would be restricting my fuel flow and pressure and that would mean less fuel for the engine to burn and inturn lower the power right?

Yes that's correct

 

[Shane1989]

Not bad hey? A 17 year old american boy that uses logic in his mechanics??? LMAO

 

[snake_VL]

if you didn't take the distributor out and replace the bearing in it than that new cas may go at any time on you