Help me Diagnosis my electrical problems

[Tasmaniak]

Lol... congrats then?

 

[VRStato64]

Lol... congrats then?

Haha thank you!

 

[VRStato64]

One thing I hate is when I am searching the forums for answers because you know... "USE THE SEARCH FEATURE BEFORE ASKING" but when I find 10 threads with no conclusion to problems it does my head in. So heres the start of the conclusion.

Anyway anyone that finds this thread. Finally got my lazy arse to someone who knew stuff. Alternator is over charging my battery. Causing my dash cluster to shut off, blowing globes and fluctuating revs. Alternator charging at 18V. Should be around 14.XV correct?

I need to replace it. Well from what I have read the regulator is the real issue, but the LS alts have an internal regulator so its just better todo the entire unit. Please correct me if I am wrong.

So on a scale from Oil change to water pump how difficult is an LS1 alternator? 1 hour job? all dayer? just fork out and pay someone else todo it?

Noticed a few people getting an Alt from the wreckers for $70-100 with a warranty. Would you recommend that or should I just buy a brand spanker for $2XX?

 

[VRStato64]

Thought I'd jump in and bring this thread to a close.

The alternator was the cause of all my issues. It was overcharging (16-20v) the battery and creating all the issues.

What killed it was a bad bearing and a leak in the power steering system. The fluid drops down on the alt and it fried the voltage regulator.

Changing the alt wasn't that difficult. Easiest to take the radiator fan out to give yourself enough room. 2 bolts in the front and one in the car which is easiest to get to from under the car with a long extension.

My first mistake was buying an aftermarket alt. Got home "made in India" now I have been to India... And I was concerned straight off the bat. It died within 24 hours AND cooked my battery (which to be fair was a bit old).

Returned it and got a genuine one. So far so good.

Before putting it in I replaced the power steering rubber hoses and checked for other leaks. Changed the fluid out which was really dirty and blackish. New fresh fluid. Hopefully no more leaks onto my alternator!

New battery, alternator and power steering plumbing and hoses.

All is well.

 

[Risky]

Good to see that you've solved it. I had a good read through. Some parts now you have to buy 2nd hand or NOS. NOS can be expensive as Holden don't make them anymore & companies go to Holden & buy what they deem will make them money in the future. I try & buy genuine where I can & where it counts.

My local Holden Dealer parts section has a 2014 VF SSV ute. Looks fantastic. I asked the guys there about it & they told me that the owner bought a "performance" cam off an eBay site. The owner installed it himself & as soon as he started it up, the engine crapped itself big time. It'll cost $6500 to fix not including labor or $8000 for a new engine not including labor. The warranty wont cover it & the insurance company wont accept the claim. So it's a big giant paperweight sitting out there in the lot. The owner is still paying it off. Shame that the SSV ute has suffered. I reckon a few people here would slap him a few hundred times over his costly mistake as it's a really nice ute.

Hopefully you'll enjoy your ride now with no worries.

 

[wortus]

Thanks mate Ill look into the positions of the earths. I should clean them with some grease remover and wire brush then dry after with paper towel right?

If the battery isnt out putting enough power because its on the way out that could cause issues too I assume. Despite the newish alternator keeping it topped up.

Any others want to chime in? I cant imagine earthing would cause every issue I listed.

When your car is running it's essentially being powered off the alternator not the battery otherwise the battery would go flat. The battery should be tested as it plays a part in regulating the voltage (which is why you never disconnect a battery with the engine running). Are your battery leads and terminals clean and corrosion free?
Can you rig up a multimeter to the lighter socket and see what the voltage is doing?
If you think the battery is on the way out go and get it load tested or put a multimeter accross it while someone cranks the engine. If it drops below about 9 volts or so it's probably time to replace it.
Also check your alternator voltage over the engines normal rev range to make sure it does not go too high. (14 volts or so is about the max).

 

[VRStato64]

When your car is running it's essentially being powered off the alternator not the battery otherwise the battery would go flat. The battery should be tested as it plays a part in regulating the voltage (which is why you never disconnect a battery with the engine running). Are your battery leads and terminals clean and corrosion free?
Can you rig up a multimeter to the lighter socket and see what the voltage is doing?
If you think the battery is on the way out go and get it load tested or put a multimeter accross it while someone cranks the engine. If it drops below about 9 volts or so it's probably time to replace it.
Also check your alternator voltage over the engines normal rev range to make sure it does not go too high. (14 volts or so is about the max).

Yeah all good mate. Was a combo of everything you listed as I said. Really need to buy a multi meter just kept putting it off and off and off.

Car is running better than in a long long time. Fuel usage plummeted, tempature is lower and stable, car pulls harder and starts literally on the first turnover it's like a switch. Which is awesome for a car with 230k on the clock if you ask me.

I put iridium plugs in aswell. So it's had quite the over haul.

Was a bit of a pain figuring all this stuff out in my garage with my dad helping (who can wield a spanner but knows nothing about cars) somethings are so much easy with two people.

Feels good I fixed everything on my own. Learnt a lot.

 

[VRStato64]

Good to see that you've solved it. I had a good read through. Some parts now you have to buy 2nd hand or NOS. NOS can be expensive as Holden don't make them anymore & companies go to Holden & buy what they deem will make them money in the future. I try & buy genuine where I can & where it counts.

My local Holden Dealer parts section has a 2014 VF SSV ute. Looks fantastic. I asked the guys there about it & they told me that the owner bought a "performance" cam off an eBay site. The owner installed it himself & as soon as he started it up, the engine crapped itself big time. It'll cost $6500 to fix not including labor or $8000 for a new engine not including labor. The warranty wont cover it & the insurance company wont accept the claim. So it's a big giant paperweight sitting out there in the lot. The owner is still paying it off. Shame that the SSV ute has suffered. I reckon a few people here would slap him a few hundred times over his costly mistake as it's a really nice ute.

Hopefully you'll enjoy your ride now with no worries.

Well he won't do that again... That's crazy. Poor bloke.