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[VR-VS] How To VR/VS Caster Radius Z bar/rod Bushes

DannyboyDS

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Disclaimer:
I'm not a mechanic nor do I have any qualifications in the automotive industry, If you have
problems due to this information it's not my fault, I suggest paying for any work done to the steering system, safety first.


Materials:
2 X front radius rod bushes
2 X Rear radius rod bushes

These are both for the front of the vehicle front and rear refer to each end of the radius rod I believe.

A Radius Rod is also knowns as a Caster bar or a Z bar



These are the tools I used

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Jack
Stands

Sockets/wrenches -

Radius Rod to LCA (Lower Control Arm) 30mm or 1-3/16
Radius Rod to Chassi 24mm or 15/16
LCA to Chassi 19mm or 3/4

Power Drill with small drill bit
Soap (keep it moist, I left mine soaking in water, the gunk is good)
Sealed Worklight
Grips
Knife
Rubber mallet + some pipe or a rod
and an assortment of junk and other tools can help too, whatever makes you confortable.

A special tool you will need to push the bushes in, here is a picture of it
Basically it a long threaded bolt, some large washers a large piece of pipe and a nut.

But this tool needs to be fairly long, mine was a bit too long, but you should get the idea, I reckon about 9 inches would suffice, maybe 10.

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So firstly jack the car up, after reaching a comfortable height slap a stand under there too.

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Next grab the spanners and loosen all the nuts, just crack them basically so they are a sinch to do later, a good start really.

Radius rod to Chassi
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Radius Rod to LCA (This one is Super Duper Tight)
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Lower Control Arm to Chassi

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After cracking them all remove the nuts in the following order.

Radius rod to chassi
Radius rod to LCA (Lower Control Arm)
Lower Control Arm to chassi (Then I let it hang down)

After removing the LCA to chassi bolt, pull the LCA down this allows room for the following Maneuver.

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Then push with your foot against the front of the wheel and it will turn, use one of your hands to push the LCA this also gives you plenty of room to remove the Radius rod.

You could also just drop the lower control arm, by first undoing the pinch bolt on the hub end, placing a pipe onto the spike poking up from the balljoint mount plate on the lower control arm and then hitting the pipe, that will shock the LCA off of the HUB, then undo the chassi end.

After doing that place the correct nuts and washers on each end of the radius rod and mark the end that fits to the chassi with some paint in either case it's the end with the longest thread fitting, I just like to be certain. place it to the side for later.

Then grab a knife and chop away at the bush on the chassi removing the front section leaves little resistance to tap it through with a piece of pipe and the rubber mallet, failing this grab the special tool we made above set it up and start tightening eventually you will get a bit of movement, after that its all down hill.

Make sure to cut that front section free of the metal pipe, that means cutting around the pipe too.

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This is what it looks like all cut up
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Then use that special tool created earlier and some soap to push the new bush in. there is a small alcove that the rear side of the bush ends up in, fit the end of the tool with the non moving nut or double nuts in there with only a washer, dont use the large piece of pipe, its up to you how you use this tool, this is just how I did it.

The Chassi Bush tool
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The new bush going in
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Now with the thread poking through slip the bush onto it, then a washer and a nut, slip a socket with an extender on it onto the rear end of the tool (In the alcove) grab your spanner and start tightening, try to make sure it's all lined up straight or the bush will skew on an angle and will be harder to get in, once the bush is half way to three-quarters in the tool doesn't have to
be used any more, you can generally push it the rest of the way from there.

The cracked/split bush
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The finished product
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Now for the bush on the LCA
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I had trouble getting my LCA off of the hub, I undid the pinch bolt but as I was tapping it down it got caught on something, So I gave up on that and tapped it back up and did the pinch bolt up again.

I had to drill the rubber on this one with a power drill, I just kept going at it around and around until I felt I had stuffed it up enough, I then used the grips on the metal center of the bush and twisted and pulled, the middle of the bush came out, I then scraped the rest out of the LCA.

Even easier still would be to use a bearing puller as the LCA bush has no metal outer bugger all force is really needed to push it out.

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(Note I also cut the ends off of the bush that was in the LCA, which made it a bit easier too)

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And here is the bush finally out
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Fitting a new bush was much the same as the last one, use the nut/bolt washers and pieces of pipe to push it into place, keeping in mind one end should use a piece of pipe big enough for the new bush to slip into while the other end should just have a washer and a nut to push the new bush
in, remember to use plenty of soap.

The setup I used
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The tool on the LCA notice that the pipe is on the other end, allowing enough room for the end of the new bush to pop in.

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Then refit the Radius rod.

This was a tedious task, I found that putting the rod into the chassi bush first was easiest, but you need to push the wheel right out of your way and ensure the nuts and washers on the LCA end of the rod aren’t hitting anything thus stopping you from getting the perfect angle to get the rod
back home.

After fitting it into the chassi, raise the LCA arm with one hand or foot which ever you prefer and then shove the radius rod back home there, some wiggling and jiggling and poking around for the correct angle once again will take place.

Then push the LCA back to its home, I needed to push the wheel a bit with my foot to finally line the holes up, then I slotted the bolt through and did that nut up really tight.

Next put both nuts on the radius rod along with the washers and tighten them up but don't tighten them up 100% leave them slightly loose.

Drop the car back onto the ground and bounce the car a little
(Put your weight on one corner and then release your weight much like checking your shockers)
now jump under the car without jacking it up, you CAN get under there it’s not that tight, I found turning the wheel helped get access to the nut on the LCA, tighten the bolts on each end of the radius rod completely.

F.Y.I the torque setting are as follows.

LCA Chassi Bolt - 95
Radius rod to LCA - 145
Radius Rod to Chassi - 110

(I didn’t do them to the torque settings and so far so good, too hard to get a torque wrench in There when it's on the ground)

Repeat on the other side and all is done, goodluck.

Any feedback welcome especially if you have easier ways of doing things.

Shouts go out to the following people for information given and information I took.

My Dad - for checking on me to make sure I wasn't dead and for he’s advice
Not_An_Abba_Fan - For being a champ and offering allot of advice and knowledge along the way
Markovr - for a push in the right direction and he’s special tool which this HOWTO uses
Just Commodores - For All Your Holden Commodore Needs - for being a good place to share information and learn WITH each other

P.S some tips

Keep your soap moist, I left mine soaking.

Lube the end of the bush, the sides slightly and the hole its going into as well.

If the bush goes askew, if you catch it early enough use a small flathead to gently assist the side that wont go in, in.

When making the tool, get some threaded rod that roughly fits snug and neat, too much play causes the bush to go askew during tightning, this caused one of my bushes to lose it's shape on the end I was trying to shove in, made it very hard, I got my rod from bunnings and some nuts too, they didn't have washers big enough though.

If a bush loses its shape, The big one at the front did on me, I used a large hose clamp on it and soaked it in some hot tap water for about 5 mins, then it regained its shape and was a bit easier to get in.


P.S I regret the lack of pictures but I was doing this solo and there are only so many things I can hold at once, in some of these pictures I am holding the worklight in my mouth, not an easy task, lets just say i'd do well in prison with an effort like that.
 

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Last edited:

hako

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Excellent work DannyBoyDS - a marathon effort that will help make this bugger of a job easier. Top pictures too.
 

ephect

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:bow: top notch write up!!
 

kopper69

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:thumbsup: Top work mate, that must have taken you ages just to do the write up. Make sure you get a copy in the how-to section for quick access.
 

DannyboyDS

Just hand me the pliers.
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I thought the deal was to post here then the mods move it if it fits in with the howto's guidelines?

In either case, it wasn't really that hard, hard to believe that with my spelling I was once an A+ English student, I love writing, honestly this is an extension of one of my hobbies.

Thankyou for the kind words and feedback.
 

AttaBoy

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Excellent work there, sure it will help a lot of people here.

Damn, already did mine at a local suspension shop.
 

DannyboyDS

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what did it cost you?

Ooooh I left that out Bushes cost me $59.95 all up.

Ignore the date and time on the camera, i'm just to lazy to set it.

However not too lazy to make the howto :p
 
Last edited:

chromic

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This is a great write up, thank you. But can someone Please resize these pictures? Its taking forever to download. I finally got that bolt out on the control arm,cosrt me skinned knuckles. What a bugger. Leverage is your friend.

How do you get those z bars out so I can replace the bushes? I tried dropping the control arm and im just spinning the strut around.
 

DannyboyDS

Just hand me the pliers.
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ok tow methods of getting the radius rod out.

One is to push the hub/wheel out with a foot after dropping the control arm from the chassi end only (you may need to pry it away after unbolting it) after pushing the wheel out a bit, pull the arm towards the back of the car and the radius rod will drop out of the control arm. this method may not be good for items in your strut, like the bearings or strut top rubbers but it's quick n dirty, and yes i'm aware it's how I did it int he HOWTO like a billion years ago.

The second method would be to undo the control arm from the hub end, stick a pipe onto the spike sticking up off of the plate the ball joint is mounted to and hitting the other end of the pipe untill it bounces off of the hub, that is also a dirty method, best bet would be to use a pickle fork I think it is called to pry the ball joint end of the control arm away from the hub without tearing the rubebr boot.

Anyway once the control arm is dropped from the hub, undo it fromt he chassi and yank/pry it out.

A bearing puller works 10X better then a drill to get the radius rod bush out of the control arm, as it does NOT have a metal outter.

Thanks for the feedback and I hope this makes your life so much easier.
 
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