Installed LED lights, now throwing codes

[Levosv6]

Hey guys just bought these from Amazon and installed them they work however I’m getting a “check left/right dipped beam lamp” code
Can I ignore it? Is there a way to make it go away perhaps with a obd scanner?

 

[Fu Manchu]

Throw them away.
Not CANbus compatible. You can bet all the cars are the 2%.

 

[krusing]

Yes,
LED globes/lights are not a good option for cars not designed for them,
They are are piece of crap,
Been there and done that.

They will cause all different issues, too many to mention,
Word of advice, bin them and re-fit the stock bulbs.
Don’t be like everyone else trying to be cool with LED’s.

I can guarantee, you will be re-fitting stock globes soon than later.

“As per your thread Description” "Throwing Codes"

 

[stooge]

you cant make the error go away with a obd scanner, its not a fault code that persists, it checks on the activation of the lights so every time you turn the lights on the error will show up.
you need to add modules like this in between the vehicle and light bulb

2pcs H7 Headlight LED-Canbus Decoder Canceller Error Free Resistor Anti Flicker | eBay

These decoders could solved radio interference suppressor, EMC interference decoding, filtering decoding. Can-Bus decoder, eliminated error code on dash for most of the cars. 2 x LED Canbus Decoders.

www.ebay.com.au

they basically just add resistance to the line so the bcm can detect current draw and not throw the message.

i have run nighteye leds in all my commodores and other vehicles for years and they are a great upgrade.

 

[krusing]

Yes, resistors need to be installed,
But yet another device that can fail,

I have just rectify/fixed a couple of work trailers with LED taillights,
And had to remove the supply to ground Resistors,
As they were over heating and failing, and causing the LED taillights to be faulty intermittently.

 

[stooge]

i would not use resistors, the modules i posted are a different type of circuit that produce almost no heat which is why they are contained in plastic enclosures.
they can go inside the headlight housing.

resistor type modules need to be bolted to the body of the vehicle or something else that can dissipate the heat, yes they work but it is the wrong way of going about it imo.

EDIT:
this is the resistor type, you can identify them from the metal outer shell and the mount points for screwing them to the body.

H11 H8 LED Headlight Canbus Error Free Anti Flicker Resistor Canceller Decoders | eBay

These anti-flickering decoders will fix most power fluctuation issues such as flickering. flashing, radio interference, LED light turning off when engine starts, etc. Technology: Canbus Light. Bulb Type: H11.

www.ebay.com.au

again i would not use this type.



the zb was the last vehicle i did the led upgrade to and it required 2 of those modules on each side, it is the only vehicle i have ever found to need 2 of them but they worked well until i reverted them back to stock globes to sell it.

ZB Commodore LED Upgrade

I was replying to the post above mine, if you want HID - OEM or nothing. Yeah, I agree with you. Just reinforcing what the article you posted stated by reiterating my stance that quality halogen bulbs in a halogen headlamp assembly are the best and only legal option down under.... Down under...

forums.justcommodores.com.au

 

[lmoengnr]

Amazon junk... There are better quality available that don't throw codes.

 

[RevNev]

i would not use resistors, the modules i posted are a different type of circuit that produce almost no heat which is why they are contained in plastic enclosures.
they can go inside the headlight housing.

resistor type modules need to be bolted to the body of the vehicle or something else that can dissipate the heat, yes they work but it is the wrong way of going about it imo.

A couple of years ago I did a VF LED conversion with the newly released Narva Gen2 LED's. The Narva canbus modules didn't work and ended up with the Narva resistor option that I screwed to the chassis rails inside the guard liner and had to cut the harness and extend the wiring to do the job properly.

The job was successful and has worked fine since but other than whiter light, the low beam range was no better than the stock halogen's and wasn't worth the wiring effort with resistor blocks to do it on my own car for little gain. The Narva high beams were slightly better than halogen's but nothing extraordinary. There's plenty of LED options now, but I haven't pursued it much since, after buying in the Narva most expensive of perceived quality that were pretty disappointing.

 

[the_boozer]

Do they make anymore light than the standard globe? I've pissed them off out of a few cars as they were duller than the factory globes or the light was everywhere except on the road. why make yourself problems you don't need?

 

[stooge]

Do they make anymore light than the standard globe? I've pissed them off out of a few cars as they were duller than the factory globes or the light was everywhere except on the road

it depends on the type you get, there are basically 2 types SMD or COB.

i found the smd type to be rather dull.
i purchased a set of narva leds from supercheap auto for something like $250 years ago and because they were 4 x 4 smd chips they were dull.

i then got the $40 nighteye cob variant and they were very bright compared to the stock bulbs and the narva set.

cob leds do require more cooling which is why they have active cooling, most of the smd kits can use passive cooling.

these are pictures taken in my vf a few years back, they are the nighteye kit in both high and low.

Spoiler: low

Spoiler: high