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My Torana Rebuild

383 hatch

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Been pricing up diff parts ready to build it. Brand new 31 spline Strange axles from VPW, $270 a pair. I paid $120 each to have my current 28 spline axles shortened and re-splined. For $30 more I can buy new axles. I cant believe how cheap some things have gotten, especially if you're doing a 9". I used to be an advocate of not using a 9" if you don't need it, but honestly i'll never use anything else again.
 

Jecs

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hatch need your opinion mate. im thinking of buyin difilippo extractors with tax money

i was thinkin of heat wrapping them cause i think it makes it look nice and beefy. but it looks hard to wrap them

so dunno if i should just get them coated
 

383 hatch

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hatch need your opinion mate. im thinking of buyin difilippo extractors with tax money

i was thinkin of heat wrapping them cause i think it makes it look nice and beefy. but it looks hard to wrap them

so dunno if i should just get them coated

Lot of different opinions on this one. Wrap holds the heat in the pipes and also keeps under bonnet temps down, however, it looks like absolute dog **** (obviously only my opinion), also pipes are known to crack when wrapped. Coating also holds the heat in the pipes and drops under bonnet temps, but it looks a hell of a lot better doing it. Some people like wrap, some people like coating.

For me, it's a no brainer, coating is the go. On a car like yours where everything looks so neat, it makes even more sense. Wrap will really look like crap, especially after a few months when it gets dirty.

One thing on the pipes, my mate and I fitted difillipo 4 into 1's on his VS ute and they hung ultra low. His car was on super lows all round and he could hardly get over a low speed hump without almost ripping them off.
 

383 hatch

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do they crack in the pipes tho? ive heard its only in the weld areas... so if you dont wrap the weld areas, youre ok.

Well, yeh they generally crack around the welds. It looks to be more common with stainless aswell. I'm sure if given enough time, it would eventually crack the pipes, but it cracks the welds first because they are the weakest point. What's the point if you don't wrap the entire extractor though? Seams pointless to me.
 

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I thought that heat wrapping sometimes would cause advanced corrosion on the pipes due to trapped moisture etc.

1 plus for coated is that the whole thing is coated, including the contact between flange/gasket/head which will help keep heat in the pipe rather than transferring back into the cylinder head (may slow warm-up times, but could help efficiency on long runs)

I have coated headers on my V8 and would personally never use wrapped unless it was a dirty rat-bar hopper bike. and even then would probably re-wrap every year or two.
(although, my starter motor is heat-wraped. Hmm, maybe I should strip that down to investigate)
 

383 hatch

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That is a very valid point about the moisture, however it wouldn't hang around long once the extractor heats up, but on a car that sits around a lot, it could well be a problem though. I think it's more to do with the sheer amount of heat that's being held in the steel causing premature fatigue.
 

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sorry to hijack your thread hatch


i was going to get the black wrap, not white because it does look cheap and gets dirty quick.

only reason i didnt want to get coating is because my bay is already shiny as fk and i never been a fan off too much shiny. but i do love the ways yours look, do they dull down much?

ive read heaps about crackin the pipes but havent heard first hand about it.



and yeah i know bout difillippo's hanging low, and this might sound childish but too me it looks tuff as f**k
 
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