Overheating

[AshleyRoberts1802]

So i have a VE SV6 2002 alloytec, recently bought and installed a new OTR ORSSOM cold air intake, and my car has been overheating like crazy, not sure if its the lack of heat shield in my engine bay either thats causing this, also recently replaced my coolant so still not sure whats causing this problem.

If anyone has any suggestions on fixing the problem please lmk

 

[Asmodai78]

have you blead all the air out from the cooling system? you could still have an air pocket that causing it to overheat

 

[AshleyRoberts1802]

have you blead all the air out from the cooling system? you could still have an air pocket that causing it to overheat

Ive taken ive taken out that little plastic black screw under the car that drains the coolant, ran water through a few times to wash it out, is there another little cap next too the window washer cap?

 

[AshleyRoberts1802]

have you blead all the air out from the cooling system? you could still have an air pocket that causing it to overheat

Just found the problem, the radiator fans arent running at all, is there an easy way to test to see why it isnt running?

 

[greenacc]

Are they plugged in? And after you refilled the radiator did you bleed the air out of it?

 

[AshleyRoberts1802]

Are they plugged in? And after you refilled the radiator did you bleed the air out of it?

Ill have to have a better look into it, where abouts are the main plugs for the fans, theres no videos on online or anything, im going to get new relays and temperature sensor just to make sure

 

[AshleyRoberts1802]

Are they plugged in? And after you refilled the radiator did you bleed the air out of it?

And i did bleed the air out, sat idle for 30mins and revd once or twice, tested the fans with the ac on and neither of them were running, coolant was burning hot too

 

[Skylarking]

Obviously the radiator fans not spinning up isn’t going to help keep things cool at slow speed but on a freeway zooming along at 100kph, you’d think there should be enough airflow to keep things cool. Is that the case, temps drop as speed rises? Regardless, that’s the 1st thing to sort out as you need working fans but don’t discount that there is still air within the engine block/heads.

Bleeding the air out seems to be a PITA on these cars. That’s because the radiator is lower that the engine/heads so air is trapped in the highest place, the motor… It seems it requires some revs to get enough coolant flow to pull the air from the engine into the radiator where it belches out through a bleed kit (a big funnel screwed in place of the radiator cap that raises the coolant level above the engine)…

@Fu Manchu’s thread does through the process in detail, using a ghetto bleed kit, has links to a decent eBay bleed kit and also the much better vacuum coolant change kit. However I can’t remember if holding high revs (@ 3000RPM) were mentioned in that thread or another thread… Good to read FU’s thread below:

[VZ] - VZ VE VF Alloytec Cooling System Repairs

Helpful basic overview: The following is for both VZ and VE and VF Alloytec motors. The first part of this is on my VZ. Opened the bonnet only to discover a fine line of pink spray from the dry red coolant, all across the engine bay. Lucky to catch it before it let go all together, and no...

forums.justcommodores.com.au

 

[AshleyRoberts1802]

Obviously the radiator fans not spinning up isn’t going to help keep things cool at slow speed but on a freeway zooming along at 100kph, you’d think there should be enough airflow to keep things cool. Is that the case, temps drop as speed rises? Regardless, that’s the 1st thing to sort out as you need working fans but don’t discount that there is still air within the engine block/heads.

Bleeding the air out seems to be a PITA on these cars. That’s because the radiator is lower that the engine/heads so air is trapped in the highest place, the motor… It seems it requires some revs to get enough coolant flow to pull the air from the engine into the radiator where it belches out through a bleed kit (a big funnel screwed in place of the radiator cap that raises the coolant level above the engine)…

@Fu Manchu’s thread does through the process in detail, using a ghetto bleed kit, has links to a decent eBay bleed kit and also the much better vacuum coolant change kit. However I can’t remember if holding high revs (@ 3000RPM) were mentioned in that thread or another thread… Good to read FU’s thread below:

http://[URL]https://forums.justcomm...ve-vf-alloytec-cooling-system-repairs.279976/

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After last nights bleeding out the air, temperature seems to be running fine now, havent checked if the fans work or not but everything seems to be normal, thank you for the help

 

[Fu Manchu]

Check the reservoir every day for the week ahead. The VE and VF bleeds air out and draws in more coolant in. There can easily be litres of trapped air. The entire contents of the reservoir could get drawn in over a few short trips or less. Then air gets drawn back in and problem persists.

That can also affect the fan operation if the coolant sensor is affected by trapped air.

How most people bleed a VZ-VF is not even close to what should be done.

Always top up from the reservoir. Do not keep opening the filler cap.