Project Que'y

[Zeussy]

I've only had 1 drama with CAE personally (that was with my Torana at the start, long story). The LS1 stuff was fine, apart from the sump not quiet fitting the HR, but we knew that might be the case before we purchased it, but like i said, we really had no other choice. Having said that, all the extractors we have bought at work have never fitted without some sort of modification. There wiring looms are fantastic IMO. I've only really ever bought the looms, i tend to try and do everything else myself when doing an engine swap.

I'd stay with the leaf springs myself, for the simple fact that most 4 link aftermarket set ups are illegal for street use. The only style of 4 link that's legal is the OEM style found in HQ-HZ, Toranas, Commodores etc.

As for interior loom, we didn't use any of that in the HR, the CAE loom patches into the original body loom at the firewall plug so there is no need to use any of the Commodore loom. The HR is all standard inside (apart from autometer gauges) so the original loom needed to be retained, same as all the cars i've converted to EFI. ECU is in the glovebox, but you could mount it under the dash somewhere, provided you have the room.

Personally, i'd piss the fly by wire off, but that's just me.

Ahhk, sweet as. Will keep that in mind when it comes to the wiring.

Do you know why the 4 links are illegal for street use? Most of the mini-truckers are running around with 4 linked rear ends - engineered fine? Or was that before these new "chassis mod" laws came out? Probably will stay leaf springs in the end.

Will have to check out the space under the dash/glovebox area then make an informed decision!

I've heard you need to change the reluctor wheel to swap back to cable throttle? Sounds like a night mare?

 

[Zeussy]

These arrived in the mail...

So, hopefully on the weekend I can get the ute out of the garage, rip the sump off the LS1 and test fit it, measure up clearances, then pick a sump!

After that its just which headers to go with, I'm thinking pacemakers, but not too sure, there's a cheaper "no frills" type set on Ebay $150 cheaper. Might just go the pacie's for peace of mind...

 

[Zeussy]

Well, after a little while, a few tears and some hard work, the VH and VZ are both gone to the scrap heap. Crane truck came and picked them up last week.

Although, it was a sad day, it also opened the door/driveway up to other things...

Long story short, pulled the HQ out of the garage, got the old school 3.3L running for one last time, (after being sitting in the garage for almost 3 years) and #### me did it sound sweet as! Lumpy as ####, with a little whine from the timing gears; Pity that thing never saw the road - one day - but that's another story!
Ripped the front end off the HQ, pulled out the 3.3L and trimatic out, pulled the sump off the LS1, bolted up the engine mounts and bolted the LS1 into her new home!

Albeit not for too long, just long enough to measure up for a sump... Then back out again, and tucked away for another week of work.

So basically am at the point of needing a sump, (just trying to decide on which one) some extractors, (where do you buy pacemaker extractors from, for a good price?) deciding whether or not to just buy a loom and be done with it, and deciding whether or not to cam this thing before it goes in... lol.

 

[SP00KSTER]

cam it only if funds allow lol.
looking good now mate that motor looks huge in the car.

 

[ari666]

i say cam it before it goes in. its a pain to swap it back once the engine is at home. your only go a baby, yeah?

 

[Zeussy]

cam it only if funds allow lol.
looking good now mate that motor looks huge in the car.

We can make the funds allow! Just do it, before the missus catches up to how much this will all cost!

:rofl2:

i say cam it before it goes in. its a pain to swap it back once the engine is at home. your only go a baby, yeah?

Yeah if I do cam it, would probably be to suit standard compression, unless you can easily skim the heads a little to bump it up, definately stock bottom end.
Might talk to a 'Specialist' regarding cam spec's at a later date.

Only thing, if anything else decides to happen later down the track, once she's all on the road and registered. It will be a waste of $$, same with $900 pacemakers...

But looks like this thing is snowballing, so I'll just leave these here...

^^^ Needs work... Can you get whole floor repair sections, or just the 4 little pieces?

 

[383 hatch]

Ahhh, snowballing, i know how that feels...

 

[Zeussy]

Hahaha, its a good thing, I'm sure of it!

Only bad part is that little thing called a "completion date" gets further and further away... Having said that though, I'm 100% sure the end result will be worth the extra yards put in now.




Ok, Chassis, control arms, tray brackets, fuel tank brackets/straps etc, are at the blasters/painters.

Was originally after powder coating, but after a bit of discussion with guys at work and the fella doing the work, its been decided on polyurethane for the finish/medium. Satin black. As powder coat can - once it has a chip in it, allow moisture/dirt in underneath it, causing a massive bubble to appear/flaking off.

And apparently got a pretty good price for it? How much has anyone else payed for similar work done?

All new Nolathane bushes have turned up, all new steering ball joints, drag link etc, are here as well. Thinking of painting the steering components Silver for a little contrast, but will make a final decision once I see the Chassis' final finish.

Ordered a Sump from the states, fingers crossed it fits in with out modification... :/ Its the GM sump to suit engine conversions into earlier model Firebird's/Camaro's etc..

Will need to get both front floor pans and seriously thinking of replacing the sills "just to make sure" the rust won't be coming back right away... And then probably the windscreen scuttle panel - if I can find a one piece panel still?

Got a (small) heap of bits coming from rare spares. The threaded rods for the tie rods. New nuts/washers bolts etc. for the suspension. A new coupling for the power steering, Intermediate shaft - steering box. #### me sideways, $104.50 wtf?? New boot for the intermediate shaft. Rare Spares are thieves - That is all.

So with a bit of luck in the coming week/end I should have what looks to be a rolling chassis. Only thing that needs to get sorted is RIDE HEIGHT. Needs moarrr low than what it had, but how much is too much? Can you buy complete new leaves for the rears?

 

[383 hatch]

LOL @ completion date... I've given up on that one.

Good idea on not going with the powder coat, as you said if it gets a chip it lets water in and powder coat has no primer under it as it goes over bare steel so as soon as water gets under it the metal rusts which helps lift the powder coat off.

Do yourself a favour and ditch the Nolathane bushes in the front upper and lower control arms and buy rubber ones. Nolathane bushes **** themselves in no time at all in the front of a H series Holden, trust me. They're useless.

I'd also use rubber for the rear springs eyes aswell. I did in my ute.

While doing the bodywork, definately replace the entire sill panels, both sides. Also if the scuttle is rusty, repair it properly. Once you cut the scuttle sections out, there will more than likely be rust in the panels underneath that will need repairing aswell.

You can't buy off the shelf leaf springs, i just had mine reset. Mine are lowered about 2.5" and they still have a 1.5" lowering block in them.

 

[Zeussy]

LOL @ completion date... I've given up on that one.

Good idea on not going with the powder coat, as you said if it gets a chip it lets water in and powder coat has no primer under it as it goes over bare steel so as soon as water gets under it the metal rusts which helps lift the powder coat off.

Do yourself a favour and ditch the Nolathane bushes in the front upper and lower control arms and buy rubber ones. Nolathane bushes **** themselves in no time at all in the front of a H series Holden, trust me. They're useless.

I'd also use rubber for the rear springs eyes aswell. I did in my ute.

While doing the bodywork, definately replace the entire sill panels, both sides. Also if the scuttle is rusty, repair it properly. Once you cut the scuttle sections out, there will more than likely be rust in the panels underneath that will need repairing aswell.

You can't buy off the shelf leaf springs, i just had mine reset. Mine are lowered about 2.5" and they still have a 1.5" lowering block in them.

Chassis is definately going Poly-Urethane. Satin Black. Pick it up Friday/Saturday. Was supposed to be last week but heh, it'll be here soon enough!

Consider the Nolathane bushes for the front's scrapped. Took your advice and ordered them the night you posted this. Will get the rears in time also.

Once the Chassis is almost complete/rolling then the rust repairs will most likely start. I think, like you suggested - do it once, do it right...

My leaves have been 'played with' by a previous owner, I'll post pics up at a later date of what I mean, or at least I think they have? Looks like there is an extra Load Leaf, or something going on... lol,

How low is your front end? Did you just buy new Coils? Any brands?

Couple of pics of the stuff thats arrived so far.

New Rubber Front Upper and Lower Control Arm Bushes.

All new Steering Ball Joints, Upper and Lower Ball Joints, Track Rod etc...

Nolathane Kit.

New Sump, "GM Performance 19212593 - GM Performance Parts LS Muscle Car Oil Pan Kit" Part number, from Jegs - #809-19212593 $145.99, Plus postage.