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rear main seal replaced.. still leaking

pjdm1980

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I remember someone saying that if the buick/eco V6's don't get regular oil changes that the grit/dirt build up can make a wear mark in the crank were the seal sits and you have to move the seal or machine the crank.
 

RX25SE

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PCV works fine. I cleaned it out when I did the manifold gasket.
Oil is changed every 5000km.
No score marks in crank. Only has 170k on it.

Funny thing is VT have basically the same setup (different sump and gasket) and they have far less problems, and seem to run better too.

Go figure???
 

peterg2121

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I remember someone saying that if the buick/eco V6's don't get regular oil changes that the grit/dirt build up can make a wear mark in the crank were the seal sits and you have to move the seal or machine the crank.

this is partially true i work as a mechanic and what happens is the seal goes hard and cuts a grove into the crankshaft so when you go put the new seal on it leaks again the way u fix it without machining the crankshaft is you can buy the right size sleeve to fit over it and fit a seal size slightly bigger its tricky but i work as a mechanic and have done it a few times before
 

nathanVY

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this is an ecotec rear main
97057d1279002810-nathans-vs-calais-spare-engine-leakage.jpg


when done PROPERLY the ENTIRE THING should be replaced, the new part looks like this
p310710205402.jpg


I know a lot of mechanics do it dodgy and just replace the rubbers, the plate its-self is often warped (mine was)

p3107102242.jpg
 

RX25SE

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this is an ecotec rear main
when done PROPERLY the ENTIRE THING should be replaced, the new part looks like this
p310710205402.jpg


I know a lot of mechanics do it dodgy and just replace the rubbers, the plate its-self is often warped (mine was)

Is that the upgraded unit with the flat seal (no garter spring)?
 

pieces

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VX leaking rear seal plate

Im in the same boat as others I have a slight oil leak not a big issue . The main problem is coolant leaking and the self refilling of the radiator fails to happen due to this . The temperature warning comes on intermittently due to air in the cooling system . What puts us off doing it our selves is the alignment of the seal plate me and a mate can do it but we dont have the special tools. Ive read all the post here and haven't seen a way of doing it with out the special tools . Any advise would be greatly appreciated .

I rang Holden and they want $1,000 to do it ouch .
 
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seq4x4

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I did mine fine. No special tools. Not one leak from it since. $20 for the rear main seal, $21 for the rear main plate seal (couldnt find another plate) and $20 for the gasket. If its still in good nik the bolts will have sleeves on them with locate the plate into alignment. However, all you have to do is make sure it lines up correctly.. Do not use sealant. Youll have to drain oil and coolent to do it.
 

maldotcom2

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It's been a while since I've looked at one but if I recall correctly the carrier is not located on any dowels on the back of the block. If the carrier was removed and refitted, or replaced, the carrier may not have been set up in the correct location. There are special tools required to do this in order to ensure that the carrier lower face sits flush - flat and level - with the lower part of the block and the seal is concentric with the crankshaft.
.


Can you elaborate on this? What tools are there to align the seal with the main journal? Not being a smart ass, just curious.
 

vsv6dude

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Do you have excessive crankcase pressure contributing to the leak ?
 
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