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Replacing rotors

Gav86

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there not as strong coz of the holes, they split or crack from hole to hole, seen it a few times
 

VT_WA

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**** i wish i had knowen th at before ! Im a pritty tame driver so i think ill be ok , ill just have to keep an eye on it . but for the money i paid for them i couldnt even pick up a full set of standard rotars for that !
 

Not_An_Abba_Fan

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Brakes need heat to work. The slots are their primarily to dissipate gas, so you don't get brake fade. The holes do the heat transfer as more metal is exposed to the surrounding air. But because the heat tends to concentrate around the sharp edges of the holes they will crack. And the fact that it is the weakest point. It takes a fair bit of hard braking to crack them though.
 

Heffer_Slayer

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My car is shuddering/shaking when i brake, this is caused by warped routers yer?
Im thinking of ordering in some front slotted rotars and some pads, is it worth doing the rear yet?
Btw when i am replacing them, do i need to replace any bearings or anything?
cheers

(sorry for the hijack)
 

acarmody

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just did my front ones an hour ago, if you have trouble pulling the rotor off, there are 3 bolt holes in the middle, screw in some bolts to push it away from the hub.

Damn I wish I knew that last week. Changing my parents front rotors and couldn't get the pricks off. 20 minutes with a rubber mallet and the sorest damn arm and wrist you could ever imagine.

Oh well, live and learn.
 

Longman

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Only the front rotors have the screw holes to get them off, the rears don't but are easy as long as you ease the handbrake screw wheel. I just did mine, replaced with slotted. The 2 small bolts that hold the main caliper to the mounting bracket are the correct size for the rotor removal holes, 9/16 if I remember correctly.
 
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