The ECM memory is continually overwritten - aka self learning - so really you have to do nothing other than drive the car to "reset" the ECM. Even fault codes will clear after 20 engine starts - actually ECM power ups i.e. key on to "reds" - if the conditions to trigger one are no longer present.
Disconnecting battery power from the ECM for greater than 10 seconds will clear the ECM memory and revert the "learned" values to the factory defaults. Removing a battery terminal can achieve this as can removing the "ENG COMP" fusible link. The fusible link is under the bonnet in front of the relay box (behind the battery) with its position labelled on the cover over the fusible links.
If power to the ECM is removed the ECM will have to relearn the position of the Idle Air Control (IAC) motor. This happens when engine revs first go above 2000rpm after a key off of > 10 seconds (subsequent to power being disconnected from the ECM). When this occurs the ECM will drive the IAC motor "closed" for long enough to be sure that it will in fact be closed, regardless of its starting position. This gives an IAC reference position for the ECM to use. The > 2000 rpm requirement can be achieved just as easily during normal driving as it can by revving the engine in neutral.
The ECM will also need to learn "first guess" positions for the IAC at idle in the two or four combinations available with A/C on/off and in drive/neutral (if applicable). This will be completed with the engine up to operating temp. and may result in some variation in idle speed as it occurs.
In summary, a forced ECM reset is not often necessary. About the only reason to do so being a quick confirmation that a repair causing a fault code to occur has been successful. Otherwise, just drive the car, especially since some parts of the fuel mixture map are seldom seen in normal driving and take ages to relearn if they are cleared.
The (closed) TPS position is "learned" by the ECM at each start.
Then just hold it at throttle until the revs stabilise.
