Service Steering column lock fix for me

[myoldhk123]

This will be longish post.
After a lot of research, a bit of coin this is what has worked for me. All up approx $500 for everything.

My VF SS was suffering the dreaded lock issue. Scanned and got code B144c 06 run crank open/short

Downloaded workshop manual through this forum. THANKYOU!
Very informative, just a pain to navigate. iPad works best!

Tested fuses, relay etc and everything worked fine.

So I bought from aliExpress 2x modules (too perfect to me knockoffs)
Car Steering Column Lock Control Module for Cadillac XT6 Camaro XT5 Traverse ATS CTS SRX 2011-2021 23377962
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mssQBbE

Then a knock off Bosch MDI2 from there too. And updated on Bosch website. ( works great) on laptop windows 11

Connected to ACDelco TDS for a single vin for $55 for 2 years of updates too.

Programmed new modules Following the manual and online programming procedures. Still No Dice…. YES you need to program it. SPS2

Searched net for GDS2…. Yep FREE and works great! Cough cough blog.obdii365.com is very informative.
Scanned and same error. And a couple other codes and able to reset sensors ect too.

After everything I tested all lines again, turned ignition on and light tested fuse 49 from relay no power as supposed to be (open), turned ignition off (relay closed)and it lit up as it was supposed to….. but seemed slow.
followed wires, no breaks nothing…. WTF
I shorted accidentally on wrong line and blew fuse F6 15Amp in dash and also f49 5Amp under bonnet which is directly from relay K73 (Run Crank) to module.

Purchased new fuses and Relay replaced and worked perfectly as it should.

Outcome of the research which should help a few people, and relay was $25 from auto pro

Even if relay Tests and worked correctly via multimeter, the relay was still faulty in some way.
The relay was SLOW to close for power to the module, based on TIME for power VS signal from ignition OFF to actuate module.

If both ignition signal and power don’t meet at the same time to the module, it will fail and stay unlocked and never lock. Hence the error code. B144C 06
So I have now 2 spare modules if it needs replacing again.

 

[Super Coach]

i always thought it was the module in the drivers door lock playing up and not sending signal to the other module to say door open, lock steering

 

[myoldhk123]

i always thought it was the module in the drivers door lock playing up and not sending signal to the other module to say door open, lock steering

It would depend on the code you get in the scantool. And there is a few.
I contacted an auto electrician to see if they have dealt with the lock issue. They said the only one they have had was a position sensor in the auto park that had pushed through its bracket and damaged something.
I contacted lsxauto in Ballarat and the email was we replace the module and go from there. Which sounds a bit silly when I did just that 2 times and got nowhere.

The run crank relay when closed operates only the lock module, when open it sends power to a few other modules. My doors were working fine, the alarm was working and the radio wasn’t playing up. And the auto/park switch working fine. And from what I could tell all earths were strong and solid. With no earth leaks I could find.

 

[myoldhk123]

Pins on module plug.
1 n/a
2 BCM signal line status signal
3 KR73 relay only when ignition off has power
4 keyless entry signal…. Doors, park brake on off radio etc.
5 constant power +
6 and 7 are negative constant
8 canbus low speed system for programming.

All perimeters must be met to lock/unlock.

 

[RevNev]

i always thought it was the module in the drivers door lock playing up and not sending signal to the other module to say door open, lock steering

Switching the engine off as you open the driver's door at the wrong time can set a steering lock module fault I've seen happen randomly on a couple of different cars. There's definitely a door lock association with it.

 

[High plains drifter]

This will be longish post.
After a lot of research, a bit of coin this is what has worked for me. All up approx $500 for everything.

My VF SS was suffering the dreaded lock issue. Scanned and got code B144c 06 run crank open/short

Downloaded workshop manual through this forum. THANKYOU!
Very informative, just a pain to navigate. iPad works best!

Tested fuses, relay etc and everything worked fine.

So I bought from aliExpress 2x modules (too perfect to me knockoffs)
Car Steering Column Lock Control Module for Cadillac XT6 Camaro XT5 Traverse ATS CTS SRX 2011-2021 23377962
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mssQBbE

Then a knock off Bosch MDI2 from there too. And updated on Bosch website. ( works great) on laptop windows 11

Connected to ACDelco TDS for a single vin for $55 for 2 years of updates too.

Programmed new modules Following the manual and online programming procedures. Still No Dice…. YES you need to program it. SPS2

Searched net for GDS2…. Yep FREE and works great! Cough cough blog.obdii365.com is very informative.
Scanned and same error. And a couple other codes and able to reset sensors ect too.

After everything I tested all lines again, turned ignition on and light tested fuse 49 from relay no power as supposed to be (open), turned ignition off (relay closed)and it lit up as it was supposed to….. but seemed slow.
followed wires, no breaks nothing…. WTF
I shorted accidentally on wrong line and blew fuse F6 15Amp in dash and also f49 5Amp under bonnet which is directly from relay K73 (Run Crank) to module.

Purchased new fuses and Relay replaced and worked perfectly as it should.

Outcome of the research which should help a few people, and relay was $25 from auto pro

Even if relay Tests and worked correctly via multimeter, the relay was still faulty in some way.
The relay was SLOW to close for power to the module, based on TIME for power VS signal from ignition OFF to actuate module.

If both ignition signal and power don’t meet at the same time to the module, it will fail and stay unlocked and never lock. Hence the error code. B144C 06
So I have now 2 spare modules if it needs replacing again.

My WNII Caprice started doing this last week. Additional symptoms were no radio auto shut-off when opening the door and the easy-exit auto seat function offline. Occasionally the boot would unlatch when I opened the door, so thinking it may be a communication (canbus) between the door module and the electronic ignition, I'd read codes and pin it out in the new year.

But after reading your post this morning, I tried an 80A relay from a C-Class Benz. With the pins filed to fit it worked fine, so I drove half an hour into Wodonga and tried to find a suitable one. All to no avail. I ordered a genuine one as my 04/17 build car has different relays from a MY16 WNII.

It seems to be temperature related, as I parked in the shade and pulled the relay out at every stop to compare it to new parts. After a few starts and stops it works fine. BTW, I was driving around with the relay cover off and today is the first in a week to be below 30c.

I'll repost after I get the part next week. If you have any of these faults on a hot day, pull out the relay store is somewhere cool for a while and drive with the cover off the engine bay fuse and relay panel. I've had crazier faults over 30years as a Benz tech and 16 years trade teaching.

Sorry to be long winded, but I must thank you for saving this old bloke crawling up under a dash for no reason.

 

[myoldhk123]

My WNII Caprice started doing this last week. Additional symptoms were no radio auto shut-off when opening the door and the easy-exit auto seat function offline. Occasionally the boot would unlatch when I opened the door, so thinking it may be a communication (canbus) between the door module and the electronic ignition, I'd read codes and pin it out in the new year.

But after reading your post this morning, I tried an 80A relay from a C-Class Benz. With the pins filed to fit it worked fine, so I drove half an hour into Wodonga and tried to find a suitable one. All to no avail. I ordered a genuine one as my 04/17 build car has different relays from a MY16 WNII.

It seems to be temperature related, as I parked in the shade and pulled the relay out at every stop to compare it to new parts. After a few starts and stops it works fine. BTW, I was driving around with the relay cover off and today is the first in a week to be below 30c.

I'll repost after I get the part next week. If you have any of these faults on a hot day, pull out the relay store is somewhere cool for a while and drive with the cover off the engine bay fuse and relay panel. I've had crazier faults over 30years as a Benz tech and 16 years trade teaching.

Sorry to be long winded, but I must thank you for saving this old bloke crawling up under a dash for no reason.

Mate glad it’s help at least one person. The relay is an odd brand in mine was JEM 35/30amp 5pin…. So Stuff it I went 40/30amp Narva $25.99 at auto pro.
Only place I could find a JEM brand one was and the matching numbers was aliExpress. Just didn’t show up on searches of the net.

 

[High plains drifter]

Mate glad it’s help at least one person. The relay is an odd brand in mine was JEM 35/30amp 5pin…. So Stuff it I went 40/30amp Narva $25.99 at auto pro.
Only place I could find a JEM brand one was and the matching numbers was aliExpress. Just didn’t show up on searches of the net.

All good. About 20 minutes ago I heard a trailer rattling. My driveway is 350 yards long and curved so I couldn't see what was happening.
I have a LOT of firewood and a mate's tandem (with a hitch lock) beside the drive. I jumped into the car and got there faster than an old man can jog. All good, but the fault has recurred, so I suspect that with some heat soak, the relay has gone back to its old tricks.

I'll run it without the cover for a few days to check it out. BTW, my relay was a 20/35amp and the Benz relay I modified was 80amp with 9mm pins for a battery control module. Genuine Holden relay is $30bux trade. I ordered 2 as this car, at my age is a keeper. Cold air, 4 into 1s and 2 1/2 in twin with a tune makes it a lively stocker on mountain roads. Best of 7.2l/100km on the freeway!

Started in 1979 with a Chev powered Holden (HK Prem) and I'll die with one.

 

[myoldhk123]

All good. About 20 minutes ago I heard a trailer rattling. My driveway is 350 yards long and curved so I couldn't see what was happening.
I have a LOT of firewood and a mate's tandem (with a hitch lock) beside the drive. I jumped into the car and got there faster than an old man can jog. All good, but the fault has recurred, so I suspect that with some heat soak, the relay has gone back to its old tricks.

I'll run it without the cover for a few days to check it out. BTW, my relay was a 20/35amp and the Benz relay I modified was 80amp with 9mm pins for a battery control module. Genuine Holden relay is $30bux trade. I ordered 2 as this car, at my age is a keeper. Cold air, 4 into 1s and 2 1/2 in twin with a tune makes it a lively stocker on mountain roads. Best of 7.2l/100km on the freeway!

Started in 1979 with a Chev powered Holden (HK Prem) and I'll die with one.

Definitely the hk, I started with a hi coupe then hk coupe after that. Unfortunately will never own one again. But still loved it.

As for the Wm issue and this is only a hypothetical, the fuse box itself splits into two and lifts to seperate. With power disconnected seperate and spray with contact cleaner in pins.
Otherwise it’s on the open cuircuit of the relay if the relay is working correctly which honestly could be any of the modules shorting out or shorting to ground too.
Too much technology.

On a side note, in Geelong we are suffering from scum steeling Vf commodores via relay attacks and it’s I think 4 in a matter of weeks and 3 last weekend. Only advice to counter this is turn off passive unlock/lock in the mylink system which means you will have to use the key fob to unlock the doors and start is still push button the same. Do away with using the door button.
Unless you have good insurance.

 

[High plains drifter]

Definitely the hk, I started with a hi coupe then hk coupe after that. Unfortunately will never own one again. But still loved it.

As for the Wm issue and this is only a hypothetical, the fuse box itself splits into two and lifts to seperate. With power disconnected seperate and spray with contact cleaner in pins.
Otherwise it’s on the open cuircuit of the relay if the relay is working correctly which honestly could be any of the modules shorting out or shorting to ground too.
Too much technology.

On a side note, in Geelong we are suffering from scum steeling Vf commodores via relay attacks and it’s I think 4 in a matter of weeks and 3 last weekend. Only advice to counter this is turn off passive unlock/lock in the mylink system which means you will have to use the key fob to unlock the doors and start is still push button the same. Do away with using the door button.
Unless you have good insurance.

Thanks for the tip. I live on a rural property in a zero crime area and work at a secure base, but I do sometimes shop in Albury/Wodonga.
Like most country towns they are full of trash that would be of more use as reactive targets.

I don't miss working on the tools. Try eight! ECUs in the driver's door of a W220 S-Class, and that was in the late 90s. I still have some optic fibre left over from fixing the infotainment system (MOST) in a W221.