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sub draining battery

DevilDRake

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If you want to stop your lights dimming, then upgrade the engine bay wiring. Batt- to chassis, Batt- to engine, Batt+ to alternator charge. go to an auto elec have them make up some decent cables with hydraulic hex crimped ends, i imagine for 4awg or even 0awg it can't cost $50, your problem would be fixed. Ensure your earths are rubbed back to absolute bare metal. Unless your battery really is f*cked.

Gotta buy the bigger terminals too :p. But yeah, fair enough.
 

sweefu

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Nah, all fits on stock terminals, although a bit messy looking and crowded, it still all fits safely and fine.
 

sweefu

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Doesn't mean its essential to replace them, they are still functional.
 

VKCOMMO

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If you feel like a new battery, a D34 YellowTop (750CCA's), which is the one that 99% of high end car audio people use and trust can be purchased hassle free at www.optimadirect.com.au
 

Brenah

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Gotta agree with a few ppl here. Capacitors are a hoax.
Just get The Big 3 for a start. Then more batteries after that, if needed.
 

one_and_only2004

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Gotta agree with a few ppl here. Capacitors are a hoax.
Just get The Big 3 for a start. Then more batteries after that, if needed.

Well they're not entirely fake. When you're installing massive systems they give the lower frequencies a bit more punch - purely because the battery can't keep up with the current draw.
 

wrx884

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depends how many farads its rated? anything from 1-10 is deemed useless
 

WNTDVT

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As has been said many a time, upgrade the big three properly and it's almost a safe bet that you won't return to this thread.
 
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