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Supercharger Kit Choice???

danja

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I would go the Raptor, for two reasons:

2) Raptor have a good reputation for customer service.
3) CAPA generally seem to be a rip-off.
 

Tsunamix

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Couple of things to look at -

Piping and plumbing - Look at the shape of the plumbing in all instances. Raptors seems smoother and less sharp corners than the CAPA.

The L67 is designed to work with a lower compression ratio.

The L67 delivers a hotter air charge to the engine, so it's air density is less.

Intercooling an L67 is very difficult, although MACE has a kit that works moderatley well.

From a purley mechanical point of view - I have never liked long snouts on 'Chargers. The drive belts tend to walk with flex on the snout. Forces applied at a longer distance generate more torque (think bending force not horsepower) to the casing of the supercharger.

In terms of smoothest air flow, coolest charge, I'm inclined to the Raptor.
 

stocky

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Intercooling an L67 is very difficult, although MACE has a kit that works moderatley well.

hard how? pick up a second hand FIT cooler kit, or buy a water to air cooler. simple.

somehow getting an l67 is just the smartest, and probably cheapest, choice
 

old mate

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how do you think the getrag box that he has will like the L67 grunt?
 

speed_freak

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that was my original issue whether the getrag can handle low down grunt
 

smaddock

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I think I mentioned it to you the other week when I was looking at your car, but I may not have. I've got a mate thats put a standard getrag into a VN with a turbo V6, and has 240rwkw and craploads of lowdown torque, the turbo's slightly undersized, but it pulls damn hard from about 1500rpm upwards. And he hasn't had an issue with the gearbox. The car is daily driven, and he had it at Heathcote for the Holden drag weekend the other week, with 15 runs in one day and still running fine...
 

reppin the VS

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wonderin what its worth to sell...

i got the holden stock supercharged engine out of a 98 stato thats done 160xxxx km in my vs exec and im just wonderin if anyone could tell me what wood the charger and engine, wiring lume, computer to match, SS inductions cold air intake and maybe extractors wood be worth? all runs smooth as at about 7 1/2 psi....
 

HoldenManDan

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that was my original issue whether the getrag can handle low down grunt

I have to say that all i've ever heard about getrags, and owning one myself, is that they arent the strongest boxes around, and that yes too much low down torque will eventually kill them. I've also long believed that the T5 (VN to series I VS) is a box better suited to cope with the added torque from an L67, for example. Perhaps you could swap out the Getrag for a T5? Shouldnt be too much hassle as they were both made to suit the VS, and that the T5 has a cable clutch as opposed to the getrag's hydraulic. I think the T5 has better ratios in it also (not such a stupidly short 1st gear and a slightly better 5th gear for cruising).

Or if you've got the $$$$, do what i'm doing and throw a T56 behind an L67 :dance:

Also theres been a few different numbers thrown around with regards to stock L67 kw numbers, i'll clear it up:

VSII: 165kw
VT VX and VY: 171kw
HSV XU6: 180kw

I think the variances are just from different tunes, but i could be wrong.

But yeah, i reckon go for an L67.
 

VN Wagz

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So from what ive gathered mate,
Easiest and most likely cheapest way: Raptor bolt on kit
Safest Way: L67 conversion, BTW, get the whole engine, not just the charger and bolt it onto a L36, way to much work and $ for that.

If you going to run the car into the ground, i wouldnt go past the L67, but if you want a daily thats going to give you that kick every now an then when you need it, go raptor.

Egg- zactly. Fiancee's VS ute is a daily driver, Raptor un cooled through a getrag 5spd manual. Non cooled, twin 2.25 inch exhaust and pacemakers- 197.8rwkW (before we put good plugs in it!) and good for 13.7s on the quarter. And, i've flogged the sh1t out of it daily for a long time now, it loves it :D

Funny tho that everyone considers the L67 the hard as nails engine, but its the n/a version that first ran a 10 here in Oz (ETA-355) on stock bottom end..... and, i've heard of a few ecotecs making up to 340rwkW as well, when setup with a boost-happy cam and some light headwork.

All things considered, it woudlnt appear to be too expensive to build up a "rods and pistons" rebuilt 3.8 Ecotec, and fill it with arp studs and bolts, a nice turbo cam and then go chasing a reliable 400-odd kW....
 

aussiguy87

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$4700 for a L67 did u know a L98 is $4400 v8 6L cant beat it but also when lookin at different motor there are hidden cost that ppl over look like transmission ecu wiring exhaust to name a few things those cost add up fast just another think to consider if u want an L67 id do wat radarak47 said and build ur L36 to L67 specs then add a raptor or vortec and u will see some mad power 200-240rwkw?
 
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