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System for a VZ Ute

SUP3RST4R_DJ

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sorry didnt see your reply haha i only have autobarn and super s### auto but there is a custom install bloke intown, he mainly sells fusion but i can find out if he orders in, and closest jb hi fi is all in sydney which sucks ass
 

sweefu

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If you consider going to Sydney, Go to FHRX studios, see Marty. He will sort you out with some awesome gear at a good price, just tell him your budget. That would be easiest haha
 

SUP3RST4R_DJ

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fhrx studios, whereabouts would that be? i dont mind driving to sydney haha take the missus and visit relos lol
 

scott-95

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hes had his option subs and amp for about 6 months, still nothing gone wrong. dont think they would last with me, ahah...

Would suggest my system, but my box is that frekin big i can just get my spare out of my boot with bending the plastic floor up!
 

sweefu

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fhrx studios, whereabouts would that be? i dont mind driving to sydney haha take the missus and visit relos lol

In Caringbah mate. Google them, check out their website.
 

SUP3RST4R_DJ

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thanks mate, also whilst i got you here how do i change the tweeters and whereabouts should i put the crossovers? i got a fair idea on doing the doors haha i wanna buy the speakers first cos im over the stock ones turning themselves down when they distort, i know it can be turned off but i hate listening to loud distorted music it ruins it, i want loud and CLEAR haha
 

SUP3RST4R_DJ

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also @ sweefu whats a decent amp to run all this?
 

sweefu

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Tweeters in the factory locations, just remove the screws located at either end of the dash (you'll see them with the doors open) and then there are clips along the length of the windscreen. Like a lot of commodore interior parts, it lifts out "unclips".

As for cross overs, mounting them in the doors is probably the easiest. Make sure all connections have proper ends, soldered, heat shrunk etc. Use some metal brackets, tape, glue, sound deadening, cable ties. whatever means you need to make them very secure. Mount them inside the door trim on the outside skin of the door.

As for an amp, you could look at something from out site sponsor, Joe from Shopping Secure. He has an awesome amp available which would run your gear very nicely. It would give your splits 70wrms @4ohm, and 250wrms to your sub @4ohm, enough to get it moving a bit, though a little more power in the sub department would not be bad. Here's the link Shopping Secure - Ground Zero Iridium GZIA 4110HPX - (Powered by CubeCart) Its only $240.

Here is the Jaycar Response amp
Response Precision 4 x 100WRMS Class AB Amplifier - Jaycar Electronics
It is rated at 4x100 wrms, so your splits would take the front 2 channels with 100wrms each and the sub would get a very healthy 380wrms for your sub. It is only $250 as well, very cheap for the power and its of reasonable quality also. So all up you could get Amp from Jaycar, splits online, where are you getting your sub from? And that just leaves wiring.

All up going to be a very nice system mate.
 

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my crossovers slipped in behind the side panel on the dash well, and just cut the stock loom for it there. No need to feed wires in or out of bloody grommets!
 

SUP3RST4R_DJ

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well i was looking at getting the subs and speakers posted from that site you recommended to me, FHRX studios, but reading on his online catalogue, does it say with the polk mm10 subs that you can only buy them in twos? if thats the case would it be worth me to buy them, and then get the PA 400.1 amp which also i read to come in pairs, so 2 for
$539, more expensive i know but would that be better?? or way to much for my little cab? and if so ill just keep the other polk sub as a spare. And if i need to get another amp for the speakers i was looking at the FOCAL power Series - SOLID 2 for $299 which puts out 2x75WRMS at 4Ohms which i read is nominal for the morel maximo speakers. And i realise at this stage ill be running 3 amps which is quite a bit. However if you think all this is an overkill i will buy the jaycar amp you recommended.

Also with mounting the cross overs in the dash does that mean i have to run speaker wires back through the door and up to each tweeter? or would there be existing cables that i can 'tap' to and pull through new speaker wires?
p.ps good to now that its failry simple to get into haha i didnt want to have to pull my whole dash out
 
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