THE definitave V6 Conversion into VB, VC, VH & VK Thread (please post your knowledge)

[VK SL 3800]

Any A/C shop will be able to make some up for you, a/c stuff cost a fortune though.

 

[180sc]

My god you guys do things the hard way. My vh got wired up pretty much exactly the same as the kit from v6 conversions and it couldnt be easier, granted i had no a/c but the a/c isnt hard to adapt.
Get yourself a vn wiring diagram (a good one) then sit there with just the engine harness and go through each wire color from the plugs that connect the engine loom to the rest of the car and youw will see what each wire is for whether or not it needs 12 volt power, fuses and relays. im a dummy when it comes to wiring but when my mate showed me how to follow the diagram i reckon i could wire one up now.
For wire you just strip out the rest of the cars wiring and get as many long sections as you can and try and use the same color as original it worked very well for us.

 

[Shaun_VK]

How many wires did you have to splice? and did you use the under dash fuse box or jsut eh engine bay one?

 

[weston]

Hey Mister VP hows that build going?? any pics guys

 

[NVS]

I am in the proccess of doing a VS Ecotec conversion to a VK. It's a pitty this thread didnt take off because there is a lot of "half arsed" info out there, many of the people who have done these write-ups on different forums havent completed the job properley, Many of the conversion kits out there dont cover everything either. Yes there is lots of good write-ups, but all they have really proven is that a VN Engine, K frame and suspension will un-bolt and fit right in to a VB-VL. Most of the write-ups mention this procedure works for all V6's VN-VS, Not true. VR - VS has a wider track (aprox 70mm) this issue has been addressed by some and given a quick-fix of rolling the guards, or purchasing a custom off-set wheel (expensive).

I have consulted an engineer, who pointed me in the right direction to complete the conversion to a roadworthy state. In SA if you can use all original Holden parts that can bolt right in, You wont need an engineers certificate. I have filled in an "application to modify motor vehicle" and recieved clearance from Department of transport energy and infastructure. Once the conversion is complete I will need to take it in to Regency vehicle inspection centre to have the work and specs checked. Here is the specs nominated the "statement of requirements : Fitting of a Holden 3.8Litre V6 unmodified naturally aspirated Engine, Fitting of 290 X 23mm disc brakes to the front, fitting of 279 X 10.5mm disc brakes to the rear. Thats it. How easy is that. There are additional conditions such as :all work myst meet automotive engineering standards, the vehicle meets all other road traffic acts and regulations, Valve timing and induction is not modified, the evaperative emmisions controll devices are fitted and operational, the noise emmited from the exhaust is in accordance to road traffic act 1999 Div3, standard injectors and management is fitted, the brake master cylinder and rear callipers are compatible with the disc/disc combination, the correct ballance front / rear is achieved, and no sharp objects in or outside the vehicle. On my application I stated that I wish to upgrade to 16 X 8.5 wheels and 10bolt 3.08 LSD, I have been told that will clear as 10 bolts where fitted to VK's and the wheels fit within the standard spec.

So here is the parts list I am using to meet the above standards (this shows that it is not just a direct VN K frame and suspension bolt in if you want to get compliance on your vehicle)

Drive line
VS Ecotec 3.8L V6
VS V6 K frame
VS V6 engine mounts
VS Turbo 700
VK Crossmember
VS Trans mount
VS V6 Auto Front tail shaft
VK V8 Auto Rear tail shaft


Front end:
VB - VN Radius Rods
VB - VN Lower Controll Arms
VN V8 Sway Bar
VN V8 Struts
VN - VS V8 Callipers
VN - VS V8 Rotors
VB - VS V8 Springs
VB - VP Strut Bearing Mounts
VB - VS V8 Ball joints
VN - VP V8 Tie rod ends
VN V8 Steering rack
VL Intermidiate Steering shaft
VN VQ or VP 1" Master Cylinder and Booster


Rear end:
VK V8 Salisbury 10 Bolt 3.08 LSD
VK V8 Disc rotors
VK V8 Callipers
VK V8 Springs
VK V8 Sway bar
VK V8 Trailing arms

The wiring is simpe if you have a complete VS donor car. I have removed all the tape from the loom and followed the wires I want to keep back to the firewall and choped them making it possable to remove the fuse/relay block and re-wire it to suit, removing the horn, blower, headlight, high beam, and spotlight relays. I also removed the mounting backet from the VS to give the factory look. There are 7 - 11 wires to run back under the dash depending on your options:
Fuel pump
Alternator light
Oil pressure light / Guage
Ignition On switch
Ignition Start switch
Temp light / Guage
Ignition common power (taken from the Pink with blue stripe wire)
Tacho (optional)
Air Conditioner switch (optional)
Neutral Start switch (for auto models only)
Low Fan Speed wire (optional)



There is also an under-dash loom needed to be made up, which I have not maped out yet on the PC, It will vary depending on auto / manual and weather you have gone with a standard BCM with VATS deleted of a BCM Simulator. The basics of it can be cut directley out of your VS, find the plug just above you ECM (ECU) and follow under your dash, it joins up to your BCM, Neutral Start switch, Speedo Loom to your cluster, Power economy button, and Baud port (service plug). If you carefuly marked the wires you had to cut from larger looms to remove all of the mentioned in the previous step, you will have no problem modifying it to suit your own conversion.

There are a few options with the speedo. Custom guage cluster (VDO, Autometer), Mechanical / Electrical speedo gear adapter, or mount a VN - VS Speedo mechanisim behind the VK Dial and recalibrate using a Jcar pulse adjuster kit (not as easy as it sounds, but can be done if you have the time, tools, and know-how). Guess which option I chose.



Rather than flood this thread with updates as I think of them, I will be editing this thread, so watch this space for new info

here are some useful links to help you source your parts.
V6 Conversions
Castle Auto Enterprises
Castlemain rod shop

 

[RIPGTS]

Im doin the same conversion kan u help wth wiring

 

[Darren_L]

the wider track on the VR & VS is only a result of longer lower control arms.
If you fit a VR/VS K-frame, all you need to do is fit the early model control arms and the track remains unchanged.

I've got a VS K-frame in my VH, using the VH control arms. Track didn't change.

 

[Guzzoline addict]

Can you use the vh struts with the vs K-frame?

 

[Darren_L]

Can you use the vh struts with the vs K-frame?

yep, I've got the VS K-frame, with VH struts. The k-frames are virtually identical from VB-VS. It's just the steering rack mounts that differ.
just use the VH control arms

 

[Guzzoline addict]

Won't that give you bump steer? The vs steering rack is lower so the vh steering arms would be to high wouldn't they?