These are stuffed right ? (VR engine mounts)

[Paul13pp]

Just contacted my son and he has stands and jack so looks like Im doing it home style ahhhgggggg Im to old for this sh**

Know the feeling there Wozza !
Have just got my ol VS running pretty good now after changing the engine.... again, as the 1st one we fitted was not much better than the original smokey one.

The engine mounts are quite delicate, in that you need to be careful when installing them that you don't let the engine down too quickly so the threaded bolts that go thru the holes don't get bent. (I found the bend easily)
It is not a hard job overall, but my best tip would be to leave every nut and bolt as loose as possible on the engine mount and bracket to block so you have as much play as possible to line the threaded part of the mount into the crossmember. That part is the fiddly bit and sometimes it seems there is no way they will fit, but they do in the end with patience.

Good luck.

 

[jas98]

Holden VN VP VR VS VT VX Commodore V6 Engine Mounts X2 | eBay

 

[Brett_jjj]

Holden VN VP VR VS VT VX Commodore V6 Engine Mounts X2 | eBay

Ive just bought these same engine mounts from this guy this morning. I noticed the other day that my drivers side mount pin is sitting down on the body, so I thought Id better do something about it.. Both of them were only replaced 4 years ago for rego.

 

[Cheap6]

The engine mounts are quite delicate, in that you need to be careful when installing them that you don't let the engine down too quickly so the threaded bolts that go thru the holes don't get bent. (I found the bend easily)
It is not a hard job overall, but my best tip would be to leave every nut and bolt as loose as possible on the engine mount and bracket to block so you have as much play as possible to line the threaded part of the mount into the crossmember. That part is the fiddly bit and sometimes it seems there is no way they will fit, but they do in the end with patience.

Good luck.

The trick is to bolt the mounts to the engine (both sides) then drop the studs through the K frame on one side only and start the nuts on (maybe one thread - to stop them pulling back out). Lower the engine to just rest the studs on the K frame on the other side then pull the studs into the holes, one by one, with a lever - like an old screwdriver - threaded through the two studs (I hope that bit makes sense). Angle the lever so that it's close to the end of the stud you are trying to move and the base of the one you are levering against. Once you get one of the studs to just drop into the hole, the other one is easier. Watch that there are no body parts between the engine mount and K frame as the mounts will drop in when lined up.

 

[kingswood country]

I done it year and half ago with the car on the ground, a BIG bar and a jack and block under the engine, and a whole lot of cursing. half day and a prick of a job, but it's all I had.

 

[Wozza]

Never never never ever again !!!!! what a pig of a job ...thanks for all the help and suggestions got them in.... but it was a marathon of pain and heartache

 

[Jxfwsf]

Never never never ever again !!!!! what a pig of a job ...thanks for all the help and suggestions got them in.... but it was a marathon of pain and heartache

good to hear you got them in.... please don't read the next part as it's a bit late......

The trick is to bolt the mounts to the engine (both sides) then drop the studs through the K frame on one side only and start the nuts on (maybe one thread - to stop them pulling back out). Lower the engine to just rest the studs on the K frame on the other side then pull the studs into the holes, one by one, with a lever - like an old screwdriver - threaded through the two studs (I hope that bit makes sense). Angle the lever so that it's close to the end of the stud you are trying to move and the base of the one you are levering against. Once you get one of the studs to just drop into the hole, the other one is easier. Watch that there are no body parts between the engine mount and K frame as the mounts will drop in when lined up.

instead of prying and trying to move the rubber, undo the drivers side mount a bit on the block so the plate has some movement, drop the passenger side on and do the nuts up a few turns, having the movement on the opposite side makes it 2/5th's of sfa easier but is less effort than trying to pry it in place.

 

[Wozza]

Hi
Thats pretty much how we did it,also ground down the guide pins on the lower mount bolts as they where about a cm longer than the stockies...... the gotcha for us was the A/C condenser
The top front bolt stripped its head as its about 3mm from one of the inlet/outlet points, stuff all room to get a decent spanner/socket on it........ 4 hrs later we manage to get the now round headed sucker to budge
there is absolutely no way to get the bolt out with out a A/C regas....... stupid stupid design .....

 

[jas98]

Hi
there is absolutely no way to get the bolt out with out a A/C regas....... stupid stupid design .....

yeh there is, you just move the air compressor to one side etc, ive done it about 7 or 8 times on cars from vn-vt's, never once needed to take the compressor off leading to a regass

 

[Cheap6]

instead of prying and trying to move the rubber, undo the drivers side mount a bit on the block so the plate has some movement, drop the passenger side on and do the nuts up a few turns, having the movement on the opposite side makes it 2/5th's of sfa easier but is less effort than trying to pry it in place.

There's a knack to it. It's finessing more than prying. The critical part is getting the amount of engine weight on the mount right.

yeh there is, you just move the air compressor to one side etc, ive done it about 7 or 8 times on cars from vn-vt's, never once needed to take the compressor off leading to a regass

Yes. You may need to grind a 13mm ring spanner down in thickness so that it will fit between the head of the bolt and the A/C compressor in order to access the bolt head but it can be done.