thoughts?

[T-MaKK]

ok, so what im thinking is..
ill buy the sub off this guy for $110.. i think thats what he said. (in box)

and ill purchase a 4 channel sub from where ever.
bridge 2 channels for the sub and have the other 2 channels free for some splits when the time comes to purchase them.
ill run the amp/sub + the stock speakers off the stock HU. just untill i find a HU i like thats in my price range.

does that sound alright?

could you suggest an amp that will feed the sub? probly $250-350.

thanks.

 

[T-MaKK]

or would it be sensible to buy the 2 chan amp with the sub, bridge it at 800watts.

and when it comes time to buy the spits buy another chan amp?

im not sure how that would be wired to the HU tho? is it possible?

 

[bezz]

Stock h/u doesnt have rca pre outs to plug an amp in. You can get convertors to connect to the speaker wiring to plug an amp in but itd probably cost the same as getting a new head unit anyway.

 

[T-MaKK]

righto..

this **** gets expensive prty damn quick..

edit: the sub and amp for $250.

 

[T-MaKK]

ok, so what im thinking is..
ill buy the sub off this guy for $110.. i think thats what he said. (in box)

and ill purchase a 4 channel sub from where ever.
bridge 2 channels for the sub and have the other 2 channels free for some splits when the time comes to purchase them.
ill run the amp/sub + the stock speakers off the stock HU. just untill i find a HU i like thats in my price range.

does that sound alright?

could you suggest an amp that will feed the sub? probly $250-350.

thanks.

or would it be sensible to buy the 2 chan amp with the sub, bridge it at 800watts.

and when it comes time to buy the spits buy another 2 (4???) chan amp?

im not sure how that would be wired to the HU tho? is it possible?
Yesterday 10:10 PM

thoughts again..?

 

[holdenboy]

If you just want to purchase the one amp, a 4ch. would be the way to go.

Yes, run the sub off the rear channels (bridged) and leave the front channels free for when you get a pair of front speakers (splits).

This amp from Jaycar is a great model, its not the digital version which people have been having problems with. Its puts out 130wrms x 4 or like you'll be using it 130wrms to each of the front speakers and 380wrms to the subwoofer. Its a little overkill but that just means it wont be working as hard.
Response Car Amp 4x100WRMS - Jaycar Electronics

A little cheaper, but only 50w x 2 and 180w x 1:
Ryda Car Audio - Kenwood Car Audio KAC-8404 Car Amplifier($236.95)

Soundstream, 60w x 2 and 180w x 1:
Ryda Car Audio - Soundstream PCX4.360 Picasso - Amplifier($275.00)

Clarion, puts out similar power to the Jaycar, 100wrms x 2 and 320wrms x 1:
Ryda Car Audio - Clarion Car Audio APX4361 4 Channel Car Amplifier($357.95)

 

[T-MaKK]

ok cool.
so would any of these power the sub perfectly?

if i were to get the kenwood apposed to the response car amp, would i hear a noticeable difference?

 

[holdenboy]

I would imagine yes, because the Kenwood produces less than half the power of the Jaycar.

Any of those amps will power the sub fine, but the Kenwood and the Soundstream wont power it "as good" as the Jaycar or the Clarion. Its like buying a car with just enough power to get you from A to B, as opposed to buying a car that has more power than you "need". I know which ones going to last longer and do the job better...same can be said for amplifiers.

 

[T-MaKK]

to find the Ohms of the sub, will i just have to look on the back of it somewhere?
or is a general rule when it comes to that sorta thing.

 

[holdenboy]

It may have it written on the magnet, just look for a number with ohms on it or the symbol, it looks like the attached pic.

If it dosent then just give us the model number (also on the back of the sub) and we can tell you what impedance it is.