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Top strut bushes

monkey

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Lying in bed this morning getting over the flu and reading this thread again I remembered I had some new unopened nolathane strut top bushes/bearings in the shed and I also kept the originals from when I did my suspension. So getting ever more bored I decided to open it up and check one against the other. All overall dimensions, apart from the sagging, were within a mm or so of each other even though the old ones are pretty rooted.

strut%20top%20bushes_zps45qluely.jpg



The thing that was blindingly obvious though was the difference in the washers supplied with the nolathane ones. I painted the original one with white texta so you could see it better. Overall the original is 7mm thick and the nolathane one is 11mm thick. I think these washers should be underneath the bush and reuse originals on top? Don't know if its that simple but I hope this solves your problem.

strut%20top%20bushes%202_zps9k6ibm8x.jpg
 

monkey

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The only other thing i could think of was if the spring hats were on the wrong side of the car. Not sure if that could cause your problem though. The hole in them is offset slightly. It should be inboard.
 

Not_An_Abba_Fan

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The thickness of the washers makes no difference to anything apart from how far down the thread the nut goes before it's tight. Once it's tight, it's tight. The biggest issue is the washers being the right way around. EG, bottom washer concave down, top washer concave up. If the spring seat wasn't seated on the shaft correctly before it was all tightened up, then that can make it knock because the nut under the plate with the rubber ring on it won't be tight after it is driven the first time.
 

monkey

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The thickness of the washers makes no difference to anything apart from how far down the thread the nut goes before it's tight. Once it's tight, it's tight.

I should have said the height of the cup was different then. Assuming its on top maybe it sits too proud of the strut tower for the retaining plate to be bolted down properly.
 
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