Tripin'...

[Paul13pp]

I picked up a Calais L3 dash and trip keypad today and spent 2 hrs splicing the wires to those dash sockets.
At this stage the L3 dash is displaying digitally (some of it), the analogue gauges are working much nicer than my old ones. (used to have to bash the dash to get the fuel and temp guages to start reading) lol

Still need to run the yellow/black wire over to the connector on the left side of the car (ecu?)

What I did was cut the wires that were attached to the L3 dash from the donor car without unplugging it.
I had to extend these wires by about 30 cm and splice them in to the dash socket connectors that easily come out if you pull on them. (pull them out one at a time and splice to the wires behind)

Also have got the trip button thing that replaces the original speed alert.
Once again, I just cut the wires off leaving the plug on as it is different to the old speed alert plug.

Not yet sure which of these wires need connecting but I do know there are only 4 wires left now not connected from the dash cluster... pins 16,17,18 and 19 I think, but there are many more wires coming from that trip button control panel thingo. (the old speed alert is still plugged in at this stage)

Might have to study this thread a bit more...lol

 

[88GreenVN]

The brown white is lights, Black is earth and the tan, blue, white and green control the trip buttons at 16, 17, 18 & 19. Brown white to C2#4 and both the black wiresto C1#11

 

[Paul13pp]

You are a legend!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for that ay.

Have copied it to notepad to print and if I get an hour free tomoz, I will finish the job.

Must say the chime noise is different to the old one. Not sure at this stage what it was on about when it chimed once, after I first started the car and went for a quick drive around the block on dusk.
Might be related to the fuel wire not connected.

I notice both gauge lights at each end of the display come and go on and off with bumps, so will check those connections and bulbs/holders or clean the tracks where they fit in.

When I pulled the dash out from the donor car, it had 4 bulbs (the smaller twist and turn ones) missing in a row at one end... Is that normal? I did put ones in from my old dash to fill the vacant holes just in case...

 

[88GreenVN]

You are a legend!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for that ay.

Have copied it to notepad to print and if I get an hour free tomoz, I will finish the job.

Must say the chime noise is different to the old one. Not sure at this stage what it was on about when it chimed once, after I first started the car and went for a quick drive around the block on dusk.
Might be related to the fuel wire not connected.

I notice both gauge lights at each end of the display come and go on and off with bumps, so will check those connections and bulbs/holders or clean the tracks where they fit in.

When I pulled the dash out from the donor car, it had 4 bulbs (the smaller twist and turn ones) missing in a row at one end... Is that normal? I did put ones in from my old dash to fill the vacant holes just in case...

The chime has a code to follow to say what the issue - most times it's either a broken copper track or the voltage regulator with a cracked solder joint on Pin No 1.

The cluster will for the most part work fine without the yellow black wire being connected - this wire supplies the instant fuel voltage to the trip computer. for this take the glove box out and the black under tray along with the side air vent and you will find the vacant slot in the engine loom plug

 

[seq4x4]

After i got into an argument with 88 over this type of thing. I thought i might try his way. Jobs done, triple checked wiring. I have a few problems. I have no ODO and dash lights. Now before i put the level 3 loom in i had dash lights (Due to not having a hi bcm to suit the new headlight switch). When i put the unspliced loom in to suit, i lost dash lights and had the ODO. Now iv spliced the 4th plug and trip computer plug in following the wiring diagram, i no do not have dash lights or ODO. I have tripple checked the wiring, the wiring is soldered in, the plugs are the right way in and im seriously out of ideas. :/

 

[seq4x4]

It was a blown fuse.. I feel like a complete twat as a blown fuse was the cause to taking out all dash and spending hours trying to figure out the problem..

 

[88GreenVN]

It was a blown fuse.. I feel like a complete twat as a blown fuse was the cause to taking out all dash and spending hours trying to figure out the problem..

Was it fuse No 1? Very common to blow this one..... I think and should be put on the top of the things to do list - pull fuse No 1 before you start. But I'm not the original poster on this and cant change it..

Did you swap the headlight switch over as the L3 unit is wired differently - no grey wires to it.

 

[seq4x4]

Yea, took out the level 3 headlight switch and demister. Left the security switch in there as i dont have aircon.

 

[Orgman]

Thanks Inasinman you're a legend.

 

[aussie4life]

how do i get it so that the digital speedo is displayed all the time without it bein in diag mode? i think i remember seeing something about it but im not sure... lol i ended up makin my own loom for mine. used the terminals outa my wrecker car and soldered them onto the correct pins in the 4th plug hole. then i soldered each wire to another plug i found(door wiring harness from the drivers side lol) so that i could remove it normally. only trouble i had was that i dropped a lil ball of solder onto the plastic between pins 17 and 18 which ment when i tried to change modes it would come up with fuel flow calc. and if i tried to do anything it would just count up. ended up maxin it out. but its back down to normal now. thanks alot guys