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VE Cooling System

losh1971

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Far out when did you order that kit, and how many days lapsed before it arrived? Seems like you were talking about getting one just two days ago?
 

Mon-aro

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Impressive hey?! Luckily there were local,

Pleaee help losh! Im on verge to burn this s#!t down.

Any idea what too look for, and what is the right attachment
 

Fu Manchu

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Keep trying the others. See which one works
 

Fu Manchu

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Im just puzzled right now, why would the pressure builds up almost immediatley? Should i be concerned? Or its just something not sitting tight?
A blockage
 

Skylarking

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Im just puzzled right now, why would the pressure builds up almost immediatley? Should i be concerned? Or its just something not sitting tight?
Are you are applying vacuum to test the cooling system? If so you’d need shut the valve(s) at the gauge before turning off the compressor, else the tool may not hold vacuum. In essence you want to place the radiator under vacuum and then seal the line to the radiator to test if it can indeed hold the vacuum. If it doesn’t hold vacuum then either the valve(s) are leaking, the radiator cap attachment is leaking, you’ve connected the tool wrong, or you indeed have a leak somewhere within your cooling system.

Presumably the adapter looks like the cooling system cap and the area where the cooling system cap actually seals is clean and damage free (so the adapter can actually seal correctly).

It’s the same sealing issues if you place the cooling system under pressure (max 15psi? else the radiators can be damaged). If the tool can’t seal correctly then you can’t test correctly be it using vacuum or pressure :rolleyes:

If the tool is being used correctly (and has the correct radiator cap adapter) then any vacuum you’ve applied should remain within the cooling system and likewise any pressure you’ve applied should remain within the cooling system. Loosing vacuum will see pressure rise on the gauge while loosing pressure will see the gauge fall… Such are indications of cooling system leaks. Y using pressure, you’d be able to see external leaks via the coolant being forced out though that doesn’t help much with leaks into the combustion chamber of leaks of the heater core buried under the dash as these “internal” leaks can’t be seen so directly or easily…
 

Mon-aro

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Hi guys finally i figured out that Cap #12 is the best fit for the car.

Did pressure test at 18/19PSI and it held pressure quite well.

Minutes later realised the fans wont working! So went through the hassle and replaced the thermofans with another car i have just to test the system.

Filled up the radiator again (because i had to take it to fit the thermofan) the system took only 6L of fluid.

Started the car and let it run for 30min or so using my new ( coolant filling kit ) topped it up with coolant and the car didnt take any and the coolant started to boil.

I have noticed there tiny bubbles kept coming out.

Alao there white smoke coming out of the tailpipes but not as severe. ( No milky stuff in the oil ).

I have read that if the head gasket gone you could see a massive blow upon start ( and luckily there wasnt)

I have noticed when accelarating sine blows in the funnel but i would say bcoz of the water pump pumping hard when accelerate maybe?

I took the car for a 10k run on the highway doind around 110k/h and luckily mase it home.

Radiator didnt blow (well its dark and i couldnt see anything using phone light so lets hope it didnt.)

The white smoke still present not very thick though

I tried opening the cap (yes stupid decision) but wanted to check the pressure and oh mate! There was SO MUCH PRESSURE!

Cap is new (140 kpa/20PSI)

Water curculating (top and bottom hoses are hot and so are the heater core hoses)

AC is hot ( maybe low on gas )

Heater Work fine

The car is 2009 SV6 LY7 Engine

sorry for the lengthy reply but i thought i put everything in one post

Any ideas or suggestions? Would be highly appreciated.
 

Fu Manchu

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A compression test.
 

Fu Manchu

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The fine bubbles are normal. Accumulatively, they make a large volume of air.

Keep an eye on the level in the reservoir for the next week or so.

As for opening a hot cooling system, well that is straight out dangerous. Of course there will be a lot of pressure. The pressure is part of what stops the coolant from boiling. As air pressure increases so does the boiling point of the liquid.

Was listening to Doctor Karl podcast the other day talking about tea. Something about air temp and air pressure affect how much oxygen is in the water at 100°C, which affects the flavour of the tea. People who live in tropical climates are best to heat to below boiling point. People who live at higher elevations also find the tea has better flavour than when they make the tea with the same tea and same water at lower elevations. Lower air pressure leaves at boiling point results in more oxygen remaining in the water.
 

Mon-aro

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Coolant temp got up to 104C and fans didnt kick in. Coolant was gushing out ( at least a 1L )
 

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