VN SS Electric windows

[davemate]

Hi Guys,

having some issues with the electric windows in my VN SS. I picked up the car about a week ago and the windows wernt working. after some investigation i found the electric window control module was missing so found one on ebay out of a VQ statesman and plugged it in tonight. only got some windows working but very slow and sticky. but if i run 12 volts direct from battery to window reg motors they go up and down heaps faster. anyone got any ideas how much volts go through the switch compared to directly feeding battery voltage to the motor. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, cheers

 

[MikeC]

From memory the GMH workshop manual says the motors need a minimum of 10V at the final connection plug to the motor. The motors need regular lubing- I use silicon and regular operation to stop sticking. My RHR door motor burnt out because I didn't do this- and because of the long wiring runs it will be the first to fail.
If the motors haven't been used for a while , you may need to break every plug you can find in the system and clean them with contact cleaner.

 

[Having A Break]

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[MikeC]

Funny thing happened to me, the window on my 'Problem Child' VP Calais project went on the same door.
My fix was to dis-assemble the switch and clean the contacts. There are about 7 wires to desolder underneath before you can pry it apart.
Edit: You will also have to pop off the buttons and de-solder the resistor/diode network.
Careful when prying off those buttos lol.

"Careful when prying off those buttos"- very true. Unless you are careful and have a reasonable idea of what you're doing those switches will self destruct.
And good switches are getting hard to find.

 

[Having A Break]

.

 

[MikeC]

Just checked the manual. You should have 10V at the door switch when the windows are being raised or lowered. Measured to earth on the blue or green wire depending if the window is being raised or lowered. Green=raise, blue= lower.
The resistance between the blue and green wireds at the disconnected door switch should be around 1 ohm. Minimum =0.5 ohm, max=3 ohms.

 

[davemate]

thanks Mike, i just checked and with the passenger side rear plug disconnected we have 11.4V to the plug when pressing the switch in the front of the car, nothing when pressing the switch in the rear. motor not working still, so i removed the regulator and put 12 volts to it from the battery and it goes up and down fine, i check the resistance at the plug, we have 4.6ohms at the motor plug and 1.3 ohms at the loom. Then i plugged the motor back in and when pressing the switch only have 0.2v at the switch, any ideas ?

 

[MikeC]

Did you measure the voltage with the motor's running- not just at the disconnected plug?
Is the child proof lock in the centre console on- if it's off the power is disconnected to the rears.
The motors will operate with a 12V jumper on the motor plug but still be faulty working from the body switches. 4.6 ohms across the green and blue wires to the motor indicates a faulty motor.
I can't offer any quick answers to your low voltage in the wiring problem except to clean and test every plug, switch and earth you can find. The window actuator system has at least 4 separate earth wires returning to the main instrument earth point on the mudguard alongside the battery.