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VR Power Steering leak

67wogval

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Ok thanks, well its not leaking from the front of the pump, its obviously leaking from the bottom of the reservoir to the pump itself. So i wont worry about the pressed seal either then, the leak is that bad as soon as you fill it up, dont start the car or anything and it basically pours straight out again.
 

TheForgotten

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ummm yeah that's pretty bad. replacing that seal is a 5 minute job, might even consider replacing that asap even if you don't do the pump internal seals
 

chrisdoesitbetter

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yeah mine took about a week, but it just made everything so messy. i suggest changing the o-ring on the res for now as an interim measure and then when you get a day do the whole pump
 

chrisdoesitbetter

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oh a vitally important part i missed in the how to, dont forget to bleed the power steering system. to do this:

fill up the resorvior
jack up the fron of vehicle so both wheels clear the ground and can easily reach full lock
with the engine off turn the steering wheel left to right lock several tiimes.
remember to check the level frequently and top up accordingly
now start the car and do the same

best results may take time, after bleeding my system it wasnt quiet til the next day
 

v6lux

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As I stated before, you might still have a leak from the internal O-rings after res o-ring replacement if your pump has never been done before. But it's always better value if you do the easiest things first.

In the diagram above, the two number 8s are the internal o-rings. Once these are replaced, you should have no more issues, providing you do it right - for another 5 - 10 years. Part 3, the pump body has a hole near the rear that assists in removal and replacement of the Circlip - 18. You can start by pushing in the domed rear plate against an internal spring - 16, then if still intact the original paint seal is cracked and the plate will move in, a very small screw driver can then be inserted to push the Circlip out.

For install, hold the plate in with the small screw driver in the hole whilst you deal with the circlip.

If you understand what I am saying, you will find how easy this job is. For the pumps I have replaced the internal o-rings, I didn't do the shaft seal. One was about 8 years ago and still no probs!
 
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67wogval

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Thanks for the great advice everyone, and thanks for the diagram. V6lux...thanks for that info as well, sounds relatively straight forward and easy to change the internal 0-rings in the pump number 8. I will see how i go with it, i just hope all those other parts dont shoot out across the garage floor then i wont have a clue how it goes back together, lol. Also thanks for your advice too chris, very usefull to know, cheers
 

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i just hope all those other parts dont shoot out across the garage floor then i wont have a clue how it goes back together

The parts won't shoot out, because the only spring there is under the rear domed plate, so once the plate and spring are removed, gravity is the only thing that will let the parts fall out.

The first inner o-ring is to seal 17 inside 3.

The second inner o-ring seals 14 inside 3 (I THINK or it could be sealing 15 inside 3), thus 11, 12 and 13, are inside 14 and 15 comes out before 14.
 

67wogval

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This is to "TheForgotten" thanks for putting the picture up for me bud, but is it also possible for you to put up what each part is to the number in the diagram???
 

v6lux

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I'll have a go;
1- Input shaft
2- Front oil seal
3- Pump body
4- Relief/bypass valve spring
5- Relief/bypass valve adjuster
6- ?
7- ?
8- Internal o-rings
9- location dowels
10- ? flow plate ?
11- Impeller centre
12- Small o-ring ???
13- Impeller blades
14- Pump ring thingy around impeller ???????
15- ? flow plate ?
16- Internal spring
17- rear backing plate
18- Circlip

It does not show the reservoir tank or res tank o-ring
 

VSHeaven

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Ok thanks, well its not leaking from the front of the pump, its obviously leaking from the bottom of the reservoir to the pump itself. So i wont worry about the pressed seal either then, the leak is that bad as soon as you fill it up, dont start the car or anything and it basically pours straight out again.

IMO this suggests the reservoir itself is leaking. Either the return tube that is moulded into the lower section of the reservoir body is leaking or the seam that joins both halves of the reservoir has given up the ghost. I seriously doubt you would lose so much fluid from just the O ring that seals the reservoir to the pump (though it should be replaced regardless), especially if the engine isn't running.
 
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