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VS Auto to Manual conversion

Immortality

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Factory bolts are TTY (and should be discarded once removed), no harm in replacing them with a high tensile bolt as long as it's meets the load requirements. Many folks use replacement ARP bolts because they are re-usable :)

You need to be careful as some coating processes actually de-rate the bolts due to the heating/cooling the bolt is put through.

There are also different levels of high tensile bolts. Your start with your basic grade 8.8 and then you have grade 12.9 I tend to use grade 12.9 cap screws for the majority of my replacements as they are as good as (if not better than) your entry level ARP bolts.
 

markovr

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I have learnt this by experience that you should lightly centre pop the outside mating surface in a uniform pattern on the spigot and apply bearing mount loctite before tapping it in.....when I did the clutch first time on mine the spigot had spun and was making noise so i replaced it and next time I had the box out it had spun again so this time I did the above and the last time it hadnt spun and it was in great condition so it didnt have to do anything to it....also recommend making sure the bearing mount /throwout shaft on the box has no excessive wear....have been chasing a shudder in my car for years and finally fixed it....replaced bearing mount and installed a steel throwout carrier and pivot ball.
This is my old one ..it was worn on one side.
 
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vscalais951

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So I went and picked up the box the bolts came in today and it says they are Champion BC17 Grade 5 High Tensile 5/16x1" UNC, I tried to find some specs on them but can't really find anything, I think I might just cut my loss and get some of those ARP ones cause I want to be sure the flywheel won't come off hahaha.

Also, I never even thought about getting a spigot bush so im off to the shops to get one of those as well.

Hopefully the bush and bolts will be the last thing needed and I can get my ute back on the road by the weekend :D cheers guys
 

vscalais951

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So after more reading i have another question.....

I have been reading alot about how manual cranks have dowels that sit into holes in the flywheel, either as a locator or to take some of the strain from the bolts. Mine being an auto doesn't have them, so do these have to be there? Can you get away with not running them?

Also, do i have to get my flywheel machined or anything before putting it on?

Cheers
 

Bowen

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So after more reading i have another question.....

I have been reading alot about how manual cranks have dowels that sit into holes in the flywheel, either as a locator or to take some of the strain from the bolts. Mine being an auto doesn't have them, so do these have to be there? Can you get away with not running them?

Also, do i have to get my flywheel machined or anything before putting it on?

Cheers

T5 didn't come with them anyway only getrags did, i would recomend them but there not necessary on t5 stock engine especially with arps's

Is the flywheel new? If new now, and if used (assuming smf) if it is pitted, tempered, or putting a straight edge a cross the mating surface shows a dip or gap under straight edge then it will need to be machined flat again
 

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Put a small bead of loctite around the spigot bush when installing into crank otherwise they tend to spin which defeats the purpose
 

vscalais951

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Alright sweet. Yeah its a used one but it looks pretty good, I haven't got it with me cause im doing the conversion at a mates place but I will be there this afternoon so I will have another look at it a run a ruler across it.

Yeah I was going to put a little smear on it, does it matter what strength I use? I think I only have the high strength stuff but I can grab more while im out today.

I have been googling all night to find ARP suppliers, is the any on the Central Coast or Newcastle NSW where I can drop in and grab a set?
 

Immortality

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No because they are TTY, use once and throw away. Probably OK if you never have to take the flywheel off again but not so good if you do.

It's best to get the flywheel mirror balanced to the original flex plate to ensure the proper balance of the rotating assembly. If it's a used flywheel and you intend to install a new clutch it may pay to just have the flywheel surfaced to ensure it's flat

Dowels are generally used to ensure the placement is 100% spot on and provide no actual strength to a joint. The joints strength (between the flywheel and crank flange) comes from the clamping force of the fastener and not the shear strength of the bolts shank.
 
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