[VT-VX] VS - VY Series 2 Inlet Manifold Gasket Replacement 6hr+ (Includes Pics)

[krusing]

Hi, im wonderingwhether i should do this or not. i have a VY series 2 2004, 100,000 km, it has been maintained well and doesnt appear to be leaking however im doing all the hoses and therefore coolant which costs a bit, so im wondering should i be doing this manifold set as well, even though its not leaking? do they all eventually fail or is it lack of maintenance and or earlier models?
thanks

Yes, you can do it yourself,
Its fairly simple,
The main thing is to do it properly,
Grab yourself some ice-cream containers,
and write on them what parts [ie: Bolts] you are going to put in them. [UIM, LIM, Thermostat, etc etc]
As you dismantle each section, poor some degreaser in all of them that you will use for bolts,
So when you go to re-fit them, all the bolts will be nice and clean after a hose down with water,
Also use some bolt/thread sealant on them,
Remembering to place some dob of sealant at each corners of the front and rear LIM seals,
and most importantly, source a "Tension Wrench", and tension it up correctly, and in the correct sequence ,
as the bolts are not that big, and too much of the crack of the elbow, could snap them off.

Side note:
Not sure if its correct, but I remember a few years ago if this is still done, and read somewhere that depending upon the type of gaskets you wish to use,
Its best to spray a gasket sealent on them [from a spray can].
but I remember we did do it on some engines on the 70's & 80's.

 

[mag]

When the plenum is bolted on it should be held in place with the spring between the base of the plenum and pcv valve.

That's the problem the spring won't touch the base of the plenum it's 12mm to short..

 

[Immortality]

What model ecotec?

 

[mag]

Standard VY 3.8 I guess?

ECOTEC (L36)

 

[Immortality]

There are 2 different style intake manifolds on the ecotec with the difference been where the PCV valve breather enters into the plenum.

 

[mag]

Thanks again

Yes there sure is mines the 1 with the red blob next to it..

 

[Immortality]

I did post a pic of the ecotec PCV valve assembly somewhere but I can't remember exactly where

edit: found it..

 

[mag]

All the same components as mine

 

[Peter Hills]

I am not a mechanic. Please only use this as a Guide. Take all necessary precautions when working on your car including gloves and eye wear protection. I undertook this repair with the help of a Gregorys Mechanic Book and generalised knowledge of my Ecotec Motor and components. If I could do it I am sure most others could as well. The repair by myself took a hard 6 hours of work. If you can't spare at least a day then I would leave this to a mechanic.

Things you will need:

Engine Oil, Oil flush (approx $35 bucks)
Coolant, coolant flush, new radiator cap (approx $50 bucks as I use genuine Castrol Coolant)
Thermostat, Thermostat Gasket (Ecotec Motor Tridon TTG46) (approx $24 bucks)
New Inlet Manifold Gasket Set, Instant Gasket Sealant RTV or equivalent (approx $140 bucks as I used a lifetime gasket set aluminium one)
A good set of Screw Drivers and Ratchets, a rubber mallet, Fuel Disconnect Tool
Turps/Petrol, Razor Blade tool

MONEY SAVED

I would guess this job would cost 4 hours labour in a mechanics shop, the current going rate is about $100 bucks an hour. Plus your guaranteed a mechanic would be using cheap coolant, oils, the cheap plastic gasket set, not quality products like I have used. So assuming this the mechanics price would be around $500 - $600 bucks, could be wrong though maybe someone can assist with this. So easily I've saved $200 - $300 bucks doing it myself and now I've got more of an understanding of my engine from doing it.

Step 1

Turn engine on. Open bonnet and remove Fuel Relay Fuse from Fuse boxs in engine bay. Check your diagram to confirm which fuse it is. Wait until engine stalls. Attempt to crank at least 10 times to try and reduce fuel in fuel lines and injector fuel rails.

Step 2

Remove Battery. This is to prevent any unintended sparks from hitting a Positive lead in the Engine Bay which could potentially damage components or computer hardware.

Step 3

Time to get dirty. Start by removing the air box and piping to the plenum. Don't forget to remove the Air Box Sensor and the MAF sensor.

Step 4

Remove the Throttle Bracket which is attached by three bolts on the rear. Pry off the throttle cable from the nob with a screw driver or similar. If you have Cruise control there will be a second cable and nob to pry off. (Not %100 percent sure as I don't have Cruise Control).

Step 5

Unbolt the EGR (Only for VT-VY). As I am aware VS does not have a EGR.

Step 6

Remove your Engine belt. Unbolt your alternator. Theres two screws plus a ground screw underneath. Theres also a support bracket which needs to be unscrewed. At the rear is a another ground i think which is surrounded by rubber. Don't forget to unplug the clip at the rear of the alternator. If all bolts remove the alternator should slide up and out of the supporting metal brackets.

Step 7

Ok now is the time to remove the coolant from the system. Undo the bottom radiator hose allowing coolant to come out. Have a tray underneath to catch the coolant to dispose of it. Remember Environment and dispose of coolant correctly. Remove the top radiator hose. Allow as much of the coolant to drain and then remove the thermostat housing by undoing the two bolts. Attached to the bottom of the housing will be the old paper gasket. Scrap this off using a razar or petrol/turps. Remove the thermostat, Discard if you have a new one. If reusing make sure thermostat still works. Test in boiling water. It should open up in Boiling water and close when cold.

Step 8

Unplug all the injectors and fuel rail lines that enter the body on the drivers side using the fuel disconnect tool. Undo all the vacuum lines from the rear of the plenum. Not all of them need to be removed as one or to goes to the fuel lines which you disconnect which can go with the hole plenum when pulled off.

Step 9

Time to remove the Tensior Pulley Assembly. undo bolts underneath. Undo the heater radiator pipes that connect to the metal pipe. Once all bolts undo slowly slide the metal cylinder out from the tensior pulley assembly and remove the whole assembly.

Step 10

Attempt to remove any coolant left in the lower manifold. After this make a quick check around the engine bay making sure no bolts or cables are in the way for when you remove the plenum/lower manifold.

Step 11

Remove the 12 bolts that attach the lower manifold to the engine. When reassembling the Torque range is between 12 - 16 NM which is quite weak. You may notice when undoing these bolts some will be extremely loose.

Step 12

Ok if you have removed everything correctly the whole plenum/TPS/ICA and lower manifold should come free revealing the intake manifold gasket. This is were I could see I had a small leak near cylidner 1 - 3. Also a small leak at the rear of the block.

Step 13

You need to clean the matting surfaces from which the gasket was sitting on. Do so using a razor, turps and or fuel until clean. Do the same on the bottom of the lower manifold. Be careful not to disturb the injector nozzels which poke through. While doing this step cover the engine compartment to prevent foreign objects getting into it. If you suspect anything has fallen in you need to flush your oil and replace the oil ASAP.

Step 14

Once you are satisfied both matting surfaces are clean position the new gaskets. Place RTV Sealant or equivalent in the four corners to provide a seal and stop leaks. Apply librally as it won't hurt as long as you get it in the right place. RTV Sets in 10 minutes so be quick to replace the plenum/lower manifold back on the engine.

Step 15

Bolt up 12 bolts on manifold to 12 - 16 NM Torque and let set for 2 hrs or longer if you have to spare.

Step 16

Reverse of Steps 1 to 12 making sure you set thermostat correctly with new gasket. (I put in a cooler Thermostat the 81 Degrees one, The car runs cooler during highway driving and doesn't heat up as quickly during city stop and go, not really necessary as long as your cooling system is in A1 condition.)

Step 17

Put in fresh coolant with correct water/coolant ratio 33% - 50%. Double check all plugs/wires/bolts are re attached and correct. Replace fuse relay and battery.

Step 18

If you are satisfied everything is correct and back together start engine. Check for leaks in coolant system. and around manifold gaskets. After a week replace oil and coolant to remove any foreign objects. Then you are done.

Hi...l must admit ..yr engine is spotless..thanks for the heads up on refitting the gaskets etc...especially the red sealant..

 

[Drawnnite]

Definitely a handy guide.
2nd time having used it and its solid.

Although did it without removing fuel lines (just unmounted them from the plenum section).
For some info, if you do happen to break the pintle cap of an injector (the bright orange cap) you can get replacements from Bursons.
Same as if you break the PCV hose which can be quite brittle over time.
As some components can become fragile over time.