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VT Temperature

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vs_wagon

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Thanks Rocky and Comms... Regardless of who is right, I guess it wouldn't hurt to 'blow off a little steam'. I'll run the engine and turn the thermostat air escape screw thing to release the offending bubble(s). Sound OK?
 

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UPDATE: It turns out there's some coolant that's squeezed out through the thermostat gasket. That would be my fault. Probably explains an air bubble??

It ill be rectified on the weekend. I don't have to lose much coolant to take the thermostat housing off do I?
 

accentstencil

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You will lose only a small amount of coolant.
 

pablo

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That could be where the air is being sucked back into the system, instead of coolant back from the overflow!

Pablo
 

commsirac

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That could be where the air is being sucked back into the system, instead of coolant back from the overflow!

Pablo

Think you are all getting ahead of yourselves here, absolutely nothing has been described here to suggest there was a large amount of air in the system. The thermostat gasket maybe weeping under pressure ~14-15psi, it doesnt require the same pressure differential for coolant to be drawn back into the system from the overflow when the coolant cools and the pressure inside the system drops below atmospheric.
 

vs_wagon

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Think you are all getting ahead of yourselves here, absolutely nothing has been described here to suggest there was a large amount of air in the system. The thermostat gasket maybe weeping under pressure ~14-15psi, it doesnt require the same pressure differential for coolant to be drawn back into the system from the overflow when the coolant cools and the pressure inside the system drops below atmospheric.

Wow whats all this engineering talk. (wait a minute, I'm an engineer I should understand)

Anyway, there seems to be a small leak in the thermostat gasket. Should I replace it?
 

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YES!!!, the leak wont fix itself
 

commsirac

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It depends how big a small leak is!. If the system is running the correct 50/50 glycol mix, there will be more coolant hanging around the leak than if the system were just running water.....the water would evaporate away, so the leak may look worse than it is. If the coolant needs to be topped up more than once a month...possibly. If it were a head gasket and that was the case, I wouldnt be touching it.....cheaper to top it up than repair.....but a thermostat gasket is next to nothing and the job should be able to be done by anyone in a half an hour and without having to dump all the coolant out of the system. First thing Id do is retorque the bolts on the thermostat cover/housing.
 

RockyVX

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hmm. I guess I forgot to be specific. A "Large" air bubble would be one that is about 2-3cI. I suppose 'yall probally thought I was meaning something like half the coolant missing from the system.

a 3 odd cI air pocket trapped in the radiator cap region, which is "high" would cause the cap to remain cool, and there would probally be one in the thermostat housing also. think heat exchange. If the coolant was 89 degrees, and yes, that is the thermostat opening temperature, then if it was touching the cap, which is metal, then the cap would be approximately the same temperature as the coolant. 1+1=2, so that makes around at least 89 degrees.

No insult intended (damn that thread, keeps making me say this now), but it doesnt take a masters in rocket science to realise that air will rise to the highest available point in the system. in this case, the filler cap, and thermostat. because of their design, this is where the air stays. it wont circulate the system as a huge air bubble. thats just plain stupid.

It also might be prudent to note that a good quality coolant includes additives which help lubricate the water pump, and other parts of the system. it also generally helps prevent rust buildup in the system. hence why cars running on water generally blow pumps more often, and have systems full of brown crap.
 

commsirac

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i dont know about that... in fact I do. that generally means that there is an air bubble the size of bert newton's head inside there
RockyVX, or should we call you Jukebox(changes tune regularly):yeah:
Think it would only be a couple of mls between the vol of Bert's head and half the coolant missing. Don't want to go over old ground here, but the commo system(assume VT is same as VX) is designed with the radiator filler reservior to the side of the radiator on a plastic extension, there is no flow of water under the cap, its only when the coolant expands that it may actually even touch the cap, there is a small air gap there when it is cold which as you have correctly stated wont conduct heat well. Glycol mix itself isnt that great a conductor, the original posting of the thread mentioned only idling the motor for 5mins in which it was reported that the temp on the gauge didnt rise. This means the temp or the coolant on the cap side of the radiator couldnt have even got to thermostat temp and given that the coolant would have only have been getting mildly hot for 5mins would explain why much heat hadnt been transferred to the cap at that time. i
Contrast the ^ with top to bottom flow radiator where the metal rad cap is in direct metal contact with the top tank(the main reason it gets hot) and heated coolant straight out of the top of the engine is going past the cap
 
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