VX Berlina ABS Module

[scrano]

Yeah st3r3otyp3 mate, I've actually got just the black electrical module part/sensor being sent to me by a mate that's just removed one from a VY SS over in WA, and I just got him to send the sensor part, and not the entire module, because it was going to save on costs to ship it, and I knew that it was only going to be that sensor part that was actually faulty, but because it is coming off a VY SS, and my car is VX Berlina (with LS1 engines with traction control in both cars), I wasn't sure if I'd run into any problems with just switching that part over.

I spoke to a local wrecker, and they told me that if it's come from either a VT/VX or VY that has an LS1 with traction control, and the back part of the ABS module on both cars has the 2 pipes coming out of them, instead of the single pipe, that it'd work with my car fine and that I wouldn't have any issues, but like mpower said up above, that if it's came from a VY SS, and the part number underneath ends in 590, then it'll be incompatible with my ABS system, because my ABS module will end with either 389 or 486. I just thought though, that because I'm not replacing the entire ABS module, and I'm just replacing the black electrical control component that bolts onto the front, that it'd be the same, and that I shouldn't have any problems with it at all.

I was fairly sure that if I was replacing the entire ABS module that I'd have to get the exact part, but because I'm just replacing that black electrical module part that bolts on the front, that it'd be the same for most commodores with Gen 3/LS1 engines, unless of course it was something like a GTS, that had a really different braking system, but I thought that the VY SS and the VX Berlina ABS systems would be pretty close to identical.

To tell you the truth, I'm not really sure what advice to follow now, because I don't have a problem with replacing the part at all, but I just don't know if it's going to be compatible, especially after getting completely different stories from different people

 

[ogie1981]

Ring Bosch Monday mornong and ask if they are compatible.

 

[scrano]

Thanks Ogie1981, I think I might do that, because it seems as though that's the only way that I'm gonna get to the bottom of it all for sure, even Burson's only asked what type of engine (V6 or Gen 3), and if it had Traction or not, but they didn't ask for a VIN number, or the existing part number or anything like that, and once I told them that it was a Gen 3 with Traction, they just said that they've got them in stock, so I can't understand why they would say that, if they needed to make sure that the part number matched, unless there's a module that's compatible with most of the VT/VX, and VY ABS modules, but I guess I'll find out for sure on Monday from Bosch.

Thanks again guys, I appreciate the feedback, even if it hasn't actually solved the question

 

[mpower]

Thanks mpower, I really appreciate mate, so will a module that ends in 389 or 486 both work in my car, or does it have to match whatever the code is on the unit that comes out of my car?

I'm guessing that if the VY SS module is a unit that ends in 590, that there's probably more things to watch for other than the traction control being disabled, is that right, and what else will be incompatible?

Do all of the VY SS units end in 590, or is it just the majority of them? I have no way of checking it now, because it's on it's way to being sent to me, but when it gets here, if it ends with 590 then I'll see if a wrecker will swap the part over

Thanks again mate

I've seen two VY SS modules and they both ended in 590, I have had installed in my VXII Clubsport a 389 and currently a 486, my Monaro which is the same year also has a 486 - I have installed a 590 in both cars and both gave a TRAC CTRL error (for testing).

As per st3r3otyp3's comment above you only need to replace the electrical module not the hydraulic part at the back - so disconnect negative terminal from battery, pull the red tab and lift the ABS plug out, undo all 6 Torx, remove module (you may have to loosen the hydraulic part of the module with the same spanner you used on the battery 13mm) remove the plug from underneath (might need a thin screwdriver to lever it away from the clip) as you take the module out and then reverse the process.

Honestly it's a 15 minute job, dead easy. You should know straight away if it has resolved the issue.

 

[scrano]

Thanks MPower, much appreciated mate, hopefully when I receive the new module, that it'll be either a 389 or 486 module, and it'll match the existing module, but until it gets here, then all I can do is sit back and wait.

I was really considering pulling my old faulty module out today, and opening it up, and then re-soldering the brittle/dry solder joints that must've broken, because I'm pretty handy with a soldering iron, but the only thing that really worried me at all, was managing to remove the old case cover of the module, because I've seen that they normally machine it off with a CNC to remove it, and then replace it with a new cover once they've re-soldered the joints, and I was thinking that if that cover is held on with some sort of adhesive, that I could maybe use acetone or something like that, so I can remove the cover, and then re-use it once I've re-soldered the joints, but I'm not sure what they use to hold that cover on at all.

I didn't wanna pull the old module out, and butcher it by trying to separate the cover, so I was trying to think of what kind of solvent that I could use, that'd split the cover off easily, and then I could re-do the broken/brittle solder joints, so if anyone's got any advice on how to remove that lid without having to machine it off, or if they know whether I'm able to buy a new lid, once I've re soldered it, then I'd appreciate it, because it seems as though it's an easy enough fix, and I've done enough electronics soldering to feel comfortable with doing it

Anyways thanks MPower, like I said I appreciate it

Just a quick question though, when you put the 590 module in, did it indicate that Traction was turned off on the dashboard, or was it only when you put it on a Tech 2, that it showed up?

 

[mpower]

sorry for the late reply, the TRAC CTRL error was displayed on the dash.

resoldering these things is not for the faint of heart the wires are just like human hair - incredibly fine.

I actually gave that a go on my first faulty module (it had been previously opened) and had no luck and I'm not terrible with an iron myself.

A couple of images from my experiment. The blue wire was already in the module from the repair.

 

[scrano]

Thanks mpower mate, I really appreciate the pics that you uploaded, so I can get a good idea of just what I would've been looking at. From the looks of the pictures, there looks to be 2 reasons why these modules all fail at some point, and that's either that the soldering joins are actually to fine to the point that they're actually frail and brittle, or they've used lead free solder in the Bosch factory, instead of the much more strong and stable leaded solder, as anyone that's had an issue with the Red Ring Of Death on an Xbox 360, or the Yellow Light Of Death on a PS3 would probably know all about, lol.

Anyways, I had to make a decision, so I went ahead and bought a reco'd unit, and everything is now fine.

Thanks again for the help guys

 

[graham7773]

My 1999 VT Executive (bog standard) was going to be getting ABS but after reading this and other threads on VT-VY ABS, you could not pay me to put it in now. Way too much trouble.

 

[st3r3otyp3]

Thanks mpower mate, I really appreciate the pics that you uploaded, so I can get a good idea of just what I would've been looking at. From the looks of the pictures, there looks to be 2 reasons why these modules all fail at some point, and that's either that the soldering joins are actually to fine to the point that they're actually frail and brittle, or they've used lead free solder in the Bosch factory, instead of the much more strong and stable leaded solder, as anyone that's had an issue with the Red Ring Of Death on an Xbox 360, or the Yellow Light Of Death on a PS3 would probably know all about, lol.

Anyways, I had to make a decision, so I went ahead and bought a reco'd unit, and everything is now fine.

Thanks again for the help guys

I dont know why they would as the reason xbox ps3 etc are lead free is because they are marketed at kids.
But a poor design for the all quality germans allthe same, I did get told its because in europe nobody keeps cars for more than 10 years?