The engine and box will obviously drop straight in, but the old 1.6 had a primitive vacuum operated engine management system with the carby and the 2.0 had multi-point FI. You would need to remove all the components of the old vac system from under the bonnet and swap the wiring loom over. It would probably be easier to swap the entire engine and dash looms, leaving just the original body loom from the dash back to ensure compatibility. This will not only ensure the EFI management system is catered for, it will also cover the auto ignition cutout and selector wiring.
To complete the swap, the following parts need to be changed as well.
1. Pedal box (obviously). You can remove the clutch and brake pedals and refit the auto brake pedal with the box still under the dash, but it's a lot easier to do it with the complete assembly out of the car. As you will have to replace a fair bit of wiring, it makes sense to pull the entire dash assembly out. It's not a very difficult job to do and makes the conversion much easier.
2. Front half shafts are both different on the auto.
3. Radiator
4. Selector mechanism.
5. Console cover panel
6. Rubber bung plug for the clutch cable hole in the firewall.
7. Install an electric fuel pump as fitted to JD and JE models and replace fuel lines with later models to incorporate return pipe. The 1.6 ran a mechanical pump on the block which won't do the job.
Just as a matter of warning. I have had a number of Camiras and did a conversion from auto to manual on one of them, so I know what's involved. Manual Camiras had a poorly designed clutch pedal arrangement, which allowed flex between the firewall and the pedal box. Over time, the constant flexing of the firewall led to pretty nasty cracks around the port where the clutch cable passes through the firewall. They also suffered from chronic rust in the front footwells and in the firewall under the heater box. Check the firewall very closely for the cracks and feel under the heater in the engine bay to detect if there is any rust there. You won't be able to see the rust because the heater blower housing hides it pretty well. The seam that runs across the firewall below the heater is also a bad spot for rust. The poor ol' Camira rusted just about everywhere, but those are the worst three spots.
